Tuned Pipe
04-19-2002, 03:42 PM
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Tuned Pipe
two places in the UK here, i know, maybe not much help for you, but you never know.
www.westonuk.co.uk
www.justengines.unseen.org
www.westonuk.co.uk
www.justengines.unseen.org
04-20-2002, 02:53 AM
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Mousse can pipe`
Best muffler I have found is a mousse can pipe. Not much heavier than stock muffler, lighter than tuned pipe and very good power. Best midrange I found on mine was about 10 cu. in. volume. Ronson butane can(the larger one)Cheaper than tuned pipe too. 15 dollar header plus 4 dollar can, and some JB weld, or aluminum stick weld. Its what I'm running on my Minus, webra instead of O.S but same displacement
04-20-2002, 08:38 AM
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Proformance Specialty exhaust for sale
I have a proformance specialty exhaust for sale. I purchased it new and bench ran it. I never finished the project.
Ask around, they make a 32sx really scream. not sure of the weight but I think it's about the same as the stock exhaust but with a big power boost.
[email protected]
SOLD
Ask around, they make a 32sx really scream. not sure of the weight but I think it's about the same as the stock exhaust but with a big power boost.
[email protected]
SOLD
04-20-2002, 10:06 AM
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Tuned Pipe
My vote is the mousse can pipe...
Just go to the local "dollar store", and pick up an aluminum can with the right dimensions. If you are lucky, you can find one with a screw on top like mine, so all you have to do is (aluminum) braze a 7/32 or 1/4 inch stinger on and go!
Joe Petro
Just go to the local "dollar store", and pick up an aluminum can with the right dimensions. If you are lucky, you can find one with a screw on top like mine, so all you have to do is (aluminum) braze a 7/32 or 1/4 inch stinger on and go!
Joe Petro
04-22-2002, 02:26 PM
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Tuned Pipe
Originally posted by Joe Petro
My vote is the mousse can pipe...
so all you have to do is (aluminum) braze a 7/32 or 1/4 inch stinger on and go!
Joe Petro
My vote is the mousse can pipe...
so all you have to do is (aluminum) braze a 7/32 or 1/4 inch stinger on and go!
Joe Petro
04-23-2002, 03:54 PM
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Tuned Pipe
If you can't braze, J.B. Weld epoxy works great. Available at better automotive and hardware stores everywhere! BTW White Rain 5oz. mousse is on sale at Wal-Mart for .89
04-24-2002, 04:42 PM
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Tuned Pipe
I've had good luck so far making my own tunned pipes with the tunned pipe designer program at this site. http://mitglied.lycos.de/MartinHepperle/Airfoils/ . I don't know if they perform better than mousse can types, but I am currently tunning a hommade pipe made for a O.S. 15 CV-R mounted in a modified Kyosho F-86 shroud with good results. So far I'm getting 27.1k rpms and 3.4 lbs static thrust in this 90mm ducted fan unit.
The instructions for the tunned pipe designer are fairly self-explanitary. The only suggestion that I have is to measure the exhaust port area by removing the sleeve from the housing and pressing a piece of paper against the outside of the sleeve over the exhaust port. Then flatten out the piece of paper with the impression of the exhaust port on it and measure the area that way. The first time I measured my exhaust port area, I simply measured the width of the port with a ruler. This caused my calculated exhaust port area to be too small and limited the effectiveness of the pipe. One clue that you have measured the correct exhaust port area correctly is if the diameter of the first length of pipe that the tunned pipe designer gives you is the same diameter as the header pipe manufactured for your engine.
I made the pipe out of sheet alluminum sold as the "handyman coil" at my local Home Depot. I found it in the roofing and gutter section as it is supposed to be used for roof valleys. I rolled the parts of the tuned pipe into tubes and conical sections on a soft surface with a wood dowel, brass tubing and/or thick piano wire. Then I brazed everything together with Bernzomatic alluminum brazing rod. JBweld should work for this too. The finished pipe weighed about 1/4 oz while the pipe that came with the Kysho F-86 weighed 2 1/4 oz.
Brazing alluminum is fairly easy, but it is not like soldering in that no flux is ued and the melted brazing rod will not flow into the joint, it needs to be rubbed in with the brazing rod. Clean oils off the area to be brazed with denatured alcohol or similiar. Scrub the area with a stainless steel brush to remove oxidation. Heat the alluminum part with a propane torch and rub the joint with the brazing rod until it starts to melt. Don't heat the brazing rod directly or it will get too soft to rub into the alluminum surface. The rubbing action helps remove any remaining oxidation on the alluminum for a strong joint. Leave a generous bead along the joint for structural strength in case there is some oxidation left on the surface of the alluminum.
I have been toying with the idea of making my own pipes and headers out of JBweld and fiberglass. I did a test layup with some layers of 4oz glass cloth and JBweld, and it seems promissing. A plug for a pipe or header could be made out of foam covered in packing tape and then fiberglassed over with JBweld (not JBqwik) used as the resin. With this technique, you could cheaply and easily produce your own seamless, lightweight pipes and headers. Thoughts?
The instructions for the tunned pipe designer are fairly self-explanitary. The only suggestion that I have is to measure the exhaust port area by removing the sleeve from the housing and pressing a piece of paper against the outside of the sleeve over the exhaust port. Then flatten out the piece of paper with the impression of the exhaust port on it and measure the area that way. The first time I measured my exhaust port area, I simply measured the width of the port with a ruler. This caused my calculated exhaust port area to be too small and limited the effectiveness of the pipe. One clue that you have measured the correct exhaust port area correctly is if the diameter of the first length of pipe that the tunned pipe designer gives you is the same diameter as the header pipe manufactured for your engine.
I made the pipe out of sheet alluminum sold as the "handyman coil" at my local Home Depot. I found it in the roofing and gutter section as it is supposed to be used for roof valleys. I rolled the parts of the tuned pipe into tubes and conical sections on a soft surface with a wood dowel, brass tubing and/or thick piano wire. Then I brazed everything together with Bernzomatic alluminum brazing rod. JBweld should work for this too. The finished pipe weighed about 1/4 oz while the pipe that came with the Kysho F-86 weighed 2 1/4 oz.
Brazing alluminum is fairly easy, but it is not like soldering in that no flux is ued and the melted brazing rod will not flow into the joint, it needs to be rubbed in with the brazing rod. Clean oils off the area to be brazed with denatured alcohol or similiar. Scrub the area with a stainless steel brush to remove oxidation. Heat the alluminum part with a propane torch and rub the joint with the brazing rod until it starts to melt. Don't heat the brazing rod directly or it will get too soft to rub into the alluminum surface. The rubbing action helps remove any remaining oxidation on the alluminum for a strong joint. Leave a generous bead along the joint for structural strength in case there is some oxidation left on the surface of the alluminum.
I have been toying with the idea of making my own pipes and headers out of JBweld and fiberglass. I did a test layup with some layers of 4oz glass cloth and JBweld, and it seems promissing. A plug for a pipe or header could be made out of foam covered in packing tape and then fiberglassed over with JBweld (not JBqwik) used as the resin. With this technique, you could cheaply and easily produce your own seamless, lightweight pipes and headers. Thoughts?
05-06-2002, 01:54 AM
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Tuned Pipe
Hello Craig, I am not able to bring up the URL you gave for the tuned pipe designer program. Could you please recheck it and let us know. It sounds very interesting.
Glen
Glen
05-06-2002, 01:41 PM
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Glen,
I just loaded up the page and everything is working for me. The page has been slow for me at times though, and the tunned pipe designer program itself will take longer to load than a typical page. It just took the pipe designer program about 5 minutes to load for me and I have DSL. Be patient, it's worth it. Oh, and remember to hit the enter key after every value you change in the pipe designer, or no updates to the results will occur.
I just loaded up the page and everything is working for me. The page has been slow for me at times though, and the tunned pipe designer program itself will take longer to load than a typical page. It just took the pipe designer program about 5 minutes to load for me and I have DSL. Be patient, it's worth it. Oh, and remember to hit the enter key after every value you change in the pipe designer, or no updates to the results will occur.
