Invicta

If this is in the worng section please accept my apologies.

I have built a body shell and trailer of a WWII Jeep out of modellers plywood, Obeche and Bass wood.

I am trying to identify a relatively basic donor RC kit or relavant components to make it stear and drive.
I have tried a simple 16th scale RC "Toy" Jeep to test the idea and it works but the 16th scale front servo, drive motor and gears are
as I expected too weak. (The RC all works but only when the model is off the ground).

I have seen the following which I think I might be able to adapt but was hoping that someone may have advice on changes that I would need to make please?
e.g. I gather the Electrix Boost is a track vehicle built for speed whereas I think I might need more torque (using a universal gear set up?) but I am a complete novice at all this so could be completly wrong.<p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm">http://www.wirelessmadness.com/rc-ca...y-blue-ecx3100</p>

My aim is not to have anything technical just a 6th scale model I can "drive" on the lawn and a flat driveway/beach.
I am not after a racer or rock crawler.

Any help as to kit or RTR options and associated advice will be very much appreciated,

Bern

The Mad Modder

What abou using a rigid axle design like an actual jeep. You could use axles from a crawler such as the Axial scx10 and a central transmission for 4wd.

phmaximus

+1

phmaximus

on 2nd thought.... I dont think there is room forthe gearbox... and there is no tunell for the drive shaft...

Some of the redcat and HSP crawler axles have the motors on the axles, they might work better, because u wont have to worry about driveshafts and u would have the advantage 2 motors.

Suspension will be tricky... are u looking maby for somethingmore simple like a fixed ridged axle?

U could use some tamiya Gearhead Motors with a direct drive setup, like found on some robots/rovers

Invicta

Thank you for such quick and helpful replies.

I am trying to keep this initial RC set upi as simple as possible as I am completly new to the technicalities of radio controlled cars.

It sounds as if two motors and a rigid suspension would suit me at this stage.

Am I right in thinking that one motor will be attached to a servo for the stearing and another via gears to the rear axle forthe 2WD?
If so would you be kind enough to let me know what parts I will be needing please.

Sorry if these are very basic questions,

Bern

phmaximus

Here is what I was thinking...

Tamiya gearhead motor kit 72101


That will get it moving, and steering would work from a standard servo, I'll get back to ya with my steering idea... Including parts

Invicta

phmaximus,

From your photo I gather that each rear wheel has it's own motor which is held in place on the base of my model Jeep by the L shaped brackets.

I am assuming that the front servo will also need/have a motor.

If I am right in my assumptions can you please explain howI control the three motors and where the power will be supplied from?
e.g.
Will I need some kind of PCB which acts as a reciever of the signals from a handset/transmittor and power controller to the three motors.
Will this PCB be able to send one signal to both rear motors simultaniously
Will I need a seperate rechargable battery pack and a charger

Again I am sorry if these are all basic questions.

I do appreciate your time and help with this,
Bern

phmaximus

Yep m8, each wheel would have its own motor. And those brackets would be to mount them. U would need to check there sizes to make sure, but they should bolt on with out any modifications. U will problary need to come up with a custom mount to mount ur current wheels. Minor details

A Tamiya Teu-106bk ESC would be good for controlling the motors, and u could mount it upside down on the bottom of the chassis to hide it.



Then u need some radio gear.... Around $30 for a cheap 2.4ghz 2 channel controller and receiver.

And with any luck u might be able to find a battery that will fit inside the engine bay.......

Then the steering.... I'll get back to ya...tonight

phmaximus

Now for steering....

U will need
standard size servo


Servo mount (layed down not up right)


Tamiya 50736 parts tree


Tamiya M03 rear axles


4x bearings
2x hub pins
2x wheel nuts
2x screw in balls
4x ballends
2x turnbuckles


.............

phmaximus

frist to do is Assemble the servo saver/horn from the Parts tree, fitting 2 balls to the servo horn, and mount it on the servo.
then fit the servo assembly to the servo mount, and attach that to the bottom* chassis. (U will need to work out where exactly where its going to go so the horn is in the centre line,forward facing and in line with the steering knuckles)

Next remove the steering knuckles from the parts tree, fit balls, axles, pins, hubs and ballends
now u will have to make some ridgid suspension arms that will hold the knuckles in place but still allow them to turn. ummm..... I cant explaine it so here is a dodgy pic of my idea.



Now all u need to do is fit the ballends to the balls on the knuckles and servo horn, then centre the servo and mesure the distance from the knuckle's ball end to the servo horn's ballend to work out the required turnbuckle length, fit them and away u go....

This is just an idea ATM, it needs more investigating for protential problems

Invicta

phmaximus,

Crickey you know your RC bits n bobs!

Just to check I am understanding your advice so far.
(All costs are from a quick Google session)

Rear Drive
Tamiya Gearhead Motor kit 72101 (Robots)
Will move up to 10 lbs
Needs motor driver 10 amps +
Cost $ 109.95 ex shipping
Plus
Twin Motor Controller
Tamiya TEU 106 bk 45054
Cost &pound;29.80 ex

Handset + Reciever (reciever to be mounted on model Jeep)
2.4 Ghz 2 channel
&pound;37 ex

Front Steering
Towerpro MG995 Servo and arms
Cost &pound;7.60 ex

Plus

Various Parts
Tamiya 50736 TL-01 B Parts Uprights/Servo Saver (I presume this stops the arm from turning too far?)
Cost &pound;7.50

Plus

Tamiya M03 Rear Axles (I assume these are for the front wheels in my case?)
Cost &pound;7

Plus

Bits and bobs (Are these in the Tamiya 50736?)
4 x Bearings (For each wheel)
2 x Hub pins (For the front)
2 x Wheel nuts (Front)
2 x Scew in balls (I hate to think where these go)
4 x Ballends (Stop sniggering at the back there)
2 x Turnbuckles ( I expect I will find out what these do with a bit more Googling)

Which I think just leaves the
Battery Pack ?

The cost of all these parts would seem to be about the same as for a Tamiya Rising Fighter (without the handset etc)?
I was wondering what your advice is to me on the basis thatI haven'tassembled a RC system from the various component parts before would I be better to learn by building/modifying a Rising Fighter and then buying and fitting together these individual components on the next version?

It's a pity I can't seem to get the Gearhead kit from the UK as this would save time and shipping.

Tremendous help on this ph.
Its a pity I seem to get so much help from folk outside of the UK
(Maybe thats why this country is in such a state)!

Hope you have a good weekend,

Bern



</p>

Invicta

ph,

Thank you for the design layout/drawing it makes a lot more sense now.

Incidenatlly I used to work for a company who made RC robots for bomb disposal work so while I never got down to this level of detail I am familiar with the basics. Pity I didn't take more notice of the Techies.

Bern

phmaximus

Know worries m8, I like trying to help on "out of the box" projects,

Hummmm... I'm thinking how it can be done cheaper.....

For the price of the gearhead motors u can get a HBX max buggy (Tamiya tl01 clone)....

Might have a coffee and see what I can come up with...

phmaximus

Oh for got to ask, can u measure the wheel base and wheel track for a better idea? (I'm mm)

Invicta

phm,

Because I am scratch building the body I can adjust the following dimensions as long as I retain the proportions of a WWIIJeep.

I did the convertions using an online tool so round them up or down to suit your needs:
<p class="western" align="left" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; padding-bottom: 0cm; padding-left: 0cm; padding-right: 0cm; border-top: medium none; border-right: medium none; padding-top: 0cm">My Model Jeep
length (bumber to bumper) 22 &frac12;" = 571.5mm
width 9 1/2 " = 241.3 mm
wheelbase 13 &frac12;"(Axl to axle) = 342.9 mm

Not sure what the tracking is but assume this is how far the front wheels turn? If so again I can adjust the body to suit.

Hope this helps,

Bern
</p>

Invicta

phm,

I asked a well known RC dealer over eher about constructing the drive and stera etc from the components you have identified.

Here is his response for your information:

You could certainly do it that way, only issue is that you would need to
import the gearbox since all the 7xxxx coded items don't meet oddball EC
regulations, so can't be officially sold here.

Again I hope this helps,

Bern

Invicta

phm,

Here's a second opinion from another Tamiya dealer over here:

Each Tamiya kit uses a selection of different parts not many that are
universal. If you choose a kit like the Rising Fighter and parts from this
model can be adapted then you will find it much easier to construct.
Wheel bearings can be ordered direct from a bearing company at half the cost of
buying those in a Tamiya packet. Are various ball ends, of different sizes
(M2, M3 etc.) depending on how HD they need to be, again lots of makes and
will always be less costly to use another off the shelf make than Tamiya.
Turnbuckles, like the web link attached below.
The motor kit 72101 is not a part listed on the Tamiya importers web site.
The Twin motor controller (45054 @£59.99) is listed as no stock and delivery date shown was indicated
as 5 months ago, so again this item may no longer be available. We do sell
Mtroniks esc units and although we do not keep in stock believe they do a
special twin truck unit.
A 2 channel 2.4ghz Combo start at £36.50, as per web link below.
The Tower Pro servos are currently sold out but these were micro servos, not suited for the truck as per your attachment.
The parts 50736 are only the plastic parts and do not include any of the machined
parts required to finish. 

If you do go for a basic kit, all parts are listed in the back of the manual as they are supplied,
normally in packs. Lastly the part indicated as M03 is a chassis style used by Tamiya and although numerous parts are listed none relate to rear axles.

Hope this again helps a bit,
Bern

phmaximus

I agree that Tamiya parts are not intended to be universal, But they do share parts across there older range, like the tl01, ta01, df01, ta02, m03, ff01...
Just to just to clarify, The parts dont have to be tamiya parts, there are some great after market manifactures out thereat 1/2 the cost.
when buying turnbuckles and ballbearings I just get the cheapest ones i can find on ebay or my local hobby shop. they sell bearings individaully
yes partr 50736 are only the plastic parts and do not include any of the machined parts required to finish. but its one of the cheapest ways to get a complete servohorn that can mount 2 ballends ends (most can onlymount 1)
And FYI the m03 rear axle would be used to mount the front wheels to the knuckles.

but............

Have a look at this.

[link=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-10-4WD-HBX-ELECTRIC-THUNDERBURST-OFF-ROAD-BUGGY-RC-/151017021662?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash =item232950e0de]here[/link]

This RTR buggy, has nearly everything that u would need
Controler and receiver
battery and charger
servo & horn
motor and ESC
Steering knuckles, bearings, axles, kingpins, hubs and ballends

That thing u could problary cut it in 1/2 making it 2wd and mount the 2 halfs to ur body, complete with working suspension... u would just need tocut out a little bit of the floor and undr the wheel arches

phmaximus

hummmm this is a hard one, there is not much out there with that wheel track/width might be worth starting againe. but this time start with a working chassis and build the body on it. otherwise its going to get very expensive and might require alot ok skill to complete

Invicta

phm,

That buggy from the states looks like it has potential to be customised.
I especially like the fact that it has all the accessories to run.

The dimensions are 6th scale as this porject started out as a model jeep to suit my Action Man/GI Joe collection as my grandson had taken a shine to the dolls to play with.
I then thought he would like to pull/push a Jeep around.
Next I added sound which can be recorded and changed in MP3 format (he likes Thomas the tank engine so we adapted some of the storys).

Then I saw some RC adapted 6th scale Jeeps on YouTube which has lead us here.

Your help and suggestions have been incredibly kind and useful.
Thank you,

Bern

Invicta

Update.

I finally went for an Electix Boost.

For the price/package and fit to my 6th scale Jeep I thought this was the best way to get an introduction to "proper" RC vehicles
using an out of the box ready to race vehicle which is sold over here in the UK with a good supply of parts.

The wheels/axles are wide enough but the axles need to be a further 3" / 7.5cm apart.
So the next step is to find out if there is a suitable longer chassisoff the shelfor how best to make a custom extension.

My thanks to people who have helped me so far especially PHM,

Bern

phmaximus

cheerz m8, sorry i havent got back to ya. Ive been very busy of late.

Glad to here u have a plan to start with, once u get the boost, it should be smooth sailing from there

nitrosportsandrunner

A easy option (tho less realistic looking) is a pair of MOA axles. These are easy as there is no center trans or driveshafts to figure out. Just get 8 suspension links the right lenght and bolt the axles to your chassis.
Redcat RS10 axles can work, and you can find rollers for fairly cheap.
Exceed has a moa crawler as well I believe.

Invicta

NitroSSR,

Thank you for that option.

I've made a note of it and will take a look when time allows.

Many thanks,
Bern

Invicta

Update on this.
After getting an Electrix boost I also bought another chassis to create the right length.
A second pair of front wheels as the original rears are too wide.
Different shocks as the originals make the chassis sit too low to look realistic.

I've just finished the first decent body for the Jeep and a trailer along with some 6th scale bits of cargo e.g. Oil drums.

I've also created three figures to go with the Jeep which side tracked me for a while sculpting heads and hands and printing shoulder patches, etc!

Now it's all coming together I have found the Boost mover too quickly.

I think my options are:
I) A pinion on the motor which has less than the original 20 teeth? Is there such a pinion available?
ii) A less powerful battery than the original? But will this severely reduce the running time?
ii) Change the ESC? Will this also mean changing the battery?

If anyone has any suggestions they will be very welcome,
Bern