Ryans Rebel
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RE: Ryans Rebel
How did yours balance with the G-38? Looks good!
Any gotcha's you want to share?
I have the plans and the wood, just getting the last couple of flyable weekends in...
see ya,
Kevin
Any gotcha's you want to share?
I have the plans and the wood, just getting the last couple of flyable weekends in...
see ya,
Kevin
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RE: Ryans Rebel
Balanced good with battery and reciever just underneath the rear wing hold down blocks Tank on the CG.
Reinforce the area around the flying wire bolt holes on the Horiz Stab as it can pull out.
Not on mine but another fellows (dont know if he over gorrila'd it).
Sorry Ryan but I dont like the way the Leading edge sheeting just butts up against the Le and Te.
I think 2nd time Id do it different.
I think that about all was an easy build. I complicated it by adding the wing tube but even that was not tough. Sure makes it easy to carry around.
It flies real slow if you want and pretty much duplicates my H9 Ustick.
Weight is 14lb 4oz RTF
Reinforce the area around the flying wire bolt holes on the Horiz Stab as it can pull out.
Not on mine but another fellows (dont know if he over gorrila'd it).
Sorry Ryan but I dont like the way the Leading edge sheeting just butts up against the Le and Te.
I think 2nd time Id do it different.
I think that about all was an easy build. I complicated it by adding the wing tube but even that was not tough. Sure makes it easy to carry around.
It flies real slow if you want and pretty much duplicates my H9 Ustick.
Weight is 14lb 4oz RTF
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RE: Ryans Rebel
Andyt,
I now tend to agree with you on the way the sheeting butts against the LE. That was designed years ago. I've never had any problems with doing it that way but I use a different technique now.
Instead of using the stick upright against the rib, I cut a "v" notch into the rib at 45°. Then I glue in a 1/4" square balsa stick. Once that is in place, just lap the sheeting over the 1/4" square stick and trim of the access. Then sand to shape. This technique is much more user friendly. I also feel it allows the sheeting more purchase when glueing.
Ryan
I now tend to agree with you on the way the sheeting butts against the LE. That was designed years ago. I've never had any problems with doing it that way but I use a different technique now.
Instead of using the stick upright against the rib, I cut a "v" notch into the rib at 45°. Then I glue in a 1/4" square balsa stick. Once that is in place, just lap the sheeting over the 1/4" square stick and trim of the access. Then sand to shape. This technique is much more user friendly. I also feel it allows the sheeting more purchase when glueing.
Ryan
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RE: Ryans Rebel
The current way as you said works and I think that your change will work even better.
i was trying to figure how I come up 2 lbs heavier than the article ....2 much glue or is it the motor?
I know I was stiffed on the wood.
i was trying to figure how I come up 2 lbs heavier than the article ....2 much glue or is it the motor?
I know I was stiffed on the wood.
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RE: Ryans Rebel
Andyt,
The wood is where it's at! If the wood is heavy, then the plane will be heavy. Notice in the article I prescribe 4-6# & 6-8# balsa. My Rebel weighs 12 lbs. 4 oz. with a G-38. I use 6.0 volts NiMH which is a little lighter than Nicd (2-4 oz. depending on mah rating). You can lighten up the engine by removing the spring starter & sleeve (about 5 oz.). One other area you might be able to save weight is on the wheels. Some wheels 4†in diameter can weight 14 oz. for the pair! Good luck.
Ryan
The wood is where it's at! If the wood is heavy, then the plane will be heavy. Notice in the article I prescribe 4-6# & 6-8# balsa. My Rebel weighs 12 lbs. 4 oz. with a G-38. I use 6.0 volts NiMH which is a little lighter than Nicd (2-4 oz. depending on mah rating). You can lighten up the engine by removing the spring starter & sleeve (about 5 oz.). One other area you might be able to save weight is on the wheels. Some wheels 4†in diameter can weight 14 oz. for the pair! Good luck.
Ryan