SubGuy05

Hello all, I am new to this hobby and just got my first HL PIV. I am in the process of putting on metal tracks, drive wheels, and idlers. It still has the plastic road wheels and return rollers. I had three questions.

1. How tight should the drive wheel be screwed in? There were no instructions.

2. 3 of eight return rollers were frozen solid with glue and from over-tightened screws and would not turn. I had to separate them and loosen the screws, and now I am wondering the best method for putting them back together is? Regular old modeling glue?

3. It seems easier to get the new metal tracks on with the hull taken off (clearing those fender spaces), am I doing this wrong?

Any help would be appreciated. I am 100% new to this. Thanks!

TheBennyB

Welcome to the hobby and this forum! For the sprocket, it should be snug on the output shaft then screwed on tightly. For the roadwheels and return wheels you could use model glue though I've used a bit of shoe goop so that you can get back into them if need be for maintenance. Remember to get some paint on those metal sprockets and idlers!! Show us some pics when you get her up and running.

philipat

What he said...

Tracks are generally tough to get on and off. If you want to leave the top on, I've found two ways to do it.

1) Take off the sprocket and "pull" the track with you. Do the reverse to put it back on.

2) Remove a pin from the track so that it's one straight track rather than a loop. Do the reverse to put it back on. Work with the tank upside-down. But, be careful not to break the turret and hull parts.

I generally use the first technique. Sometimes, you can loosen the tracks a little by compressing the lower suspension a little bit while you're working with the tracks.

SubGuy05

Thank you, I have noticed for the drive wheels that there is snug on the output shaft and then snug against the hull if you keep tightening it, it should only be snug against the shaft right? There should be that "play" in the wheel?

TheBennyB

The sprocket should not rub the hull at all. Once you get the sprocket on you should be able to apply some force and spin the sprocket to get the gearbox to move as well.

ausf

I'd always opt for taking a pin out for track removal. If your drive sprockets is running true without wobble, why risk alignment pulling it off?

You can take a spare track pin, embed it in the back of a small screwdriver handle and you have a great tank tool. Use the pin to push the track pin out enough to grab with pliers and you're good. When reinstalling, bring the track ends together over the drive sprocket so they line up and insert the pin.

philipat

Good point about the alignment. That said, I've been using Impact tracks, which require me to lay the tank on the side to get a small screwdriver under the flat head of the track pin. Still might be a better way when you consider the alignment issue.

jarndice

If I plan to remove a Track from a Panzer 4 I begin by loosening the Track tensioners and moving the rear idlers forward as far as they will go,
this allows enough slack to remove the Tracks completely.
I do remember when I bought my first "HENG LONG" Panzer 4 I had to remove the pretend Track Tensioners and fit working examples,
I would recommend that particular upgrade to anyone with a PZ4,
BUT don't settle for the cheapo version go for a well engineered although slightly more expensive one.
You won't regret it..
Shaun.

SubGuy05

I really appreciate the advice, all of you. Do you have a pic of these tensioners?

TheBennyB

so these are the adjusters. And that is all they are. They are NOT spring loaded iders. They will give you movement on your idler wheel though. It does take minor drilling and fitting.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mato-Toys-Pa...gAAOSwv-NWaTby

SubGuy05

Ok I can see it now. Sorry.

jarndice

Benny,
Those are for a PANZER 111 the Panzer 4 Track Tensioners are completely different.
Shaun.

TheBennyB

Ah, I thought they were the same. Thanks for pointing that out.

TheBennyB

So here's an adjustable idler for the IV.

http://www.asiatam.com/product_info....-henglong.html

jarndice

Those are OK but if you go to--

www.rctank.de

and click on accessories (Panzer4) they are selling a more robust set,
Shaun.

SubGuy05

Can anyone tell me more about aligning everything? Thanks.

jarndice

Make sure the front sprocket is fully "Home" and bearing in mind the friction from the gearbox it is free turning and "True"
The rear Idler must be free turning and absolutely "True" lay a piece of string between the centre of the idler and the centre of the sprocket,
Are the wheels between the sprocket and idler straddling the string ?
Adjust the position of the wheels by packing out the wheels with washers until they are all in line, Next check the Rollers are centred so that the track is not going anywhere but straight and directly overhead the wheels,
Once this seems to be good,
Run it in both directions and adjust the track tensioners to get the correct "Slack" in the tracks,
Tracks too tight can cause a lot of damage right through the drivetrain.
Be patient,
If you get it right now you won't keep having tracks jump off later.
Shaun.