Dreamworks Electric Gear/Brake help
#1
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Dreamworks Electric Gear/Brake help
Testing my system today and I cant get the brakes to work at all with the Xicoy unit. Have the brakes set on the slider but they wont activate. In the picture you see black and red on brakes side by side. But the plug in skips on wire and goes to pin 3. Does the red wire need to move to pin 2? This is how they came out of the box...
#2
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Well the normal setup for a servo would be with the red wire in the center for power. However in this case, they are only using two and I suspect it's just a -/+ relationship.
Got a Muti-Meter? I'd do some trouble shooting and if you cannot find anything, call Dennis in the morning rather than mess around with moving the wires to different pins. Hopefully with Todd out of commission for awhile, he won't have already gone to the Joe Nall.
Got a Muti-Meter? I'd do some trouble shooting and if you cannot find anything, call Dennis in the morning rather than mess around with moving the wires to different pins. Hopefully with Todd out of commission for awhile, he won't have already gone to the Joe Nall.
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Don't change the wiring. A feature that's not mentioned in the instructions is that the brakes are disabled when the gear is up. Program the gear controller as explained in the instructions. Cycle the gear switch to the gear down position and plug in the retracts. Toggle the gear switch to retract the gear. If the gear doesn't go up, simply reverse each retract lead. Cycle the gear again to be sure that the transmitter switch position matches the actual gear state (up or down). When the gear goes down there will be a momentary pause and then the retract controller backs off the tension. The brakes will now function. Make sure the brake discs are not catching on the screws. Mine were not smooth so I had to slightly enlarge the three holes in the disc.
#7
After using the brakes a bit, I found one side is weaker than the other. Occasionally, there was no brake at all on the one side. Initially, one axle was too long allowing to much play allowing the rotor to disengage the screws. I fixed that right away, but still had issues with them. After a couple hours on the bench today, I finally ended up cleaning the disk surfaces and lightly sanding the rotor to take off the rough edges. But that did not cure the uneven braking. I ended up taking out the washers to get them to work evenly. Now the only problem I am having is figuring out how to make them less sensitive. I have mine on the DX-18's slider. Four detent clicks up and the brakes are locked up. I tried all sorts of mixes, travel adjust settings, etc. But about 400 us operates them from no brake to locked up brakes. I would like to get a bit more resolution. Anybody got any ideas? Prolink E Retracts with E brakes. Spektrum DX-18 with PBox & 3 remote Rxers. 2S LiPo. Maybe cut the voltage?
#8
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After using the brakes a bit, I found one side is weaker than the other. Occasionally, there was no brake at all on the one side. Initially, one axle was too long allowing to much play allowing the rotor to disengage the screws. I fixed that right away, but still had issues with them. After a couple hours on the bench today, I finally ended up cleaning the disk surfaces and lightly sanding the rotor to take off the rough edges. But that did not cure the uneven braking. I ended up taking out the washers to get them to work evenly. Now the only problem I am having is figuring out how to make them less sensitive. I have mine on the DX-18's slider. Four detent clicks up and the brakes are locked up. I tried all sorts of mixes, travel adjust settings, etc. But about 400 us operates them from no brake to locked up brakes. I would like to get a bit more resolution. Anybody got any ideas? Prolink E Retracts with E brakes. Spektrum DX-18 with PBox & 3 remote Rxers. 2S LiPo. Maybe cut the voltage?
Programming method
1. Hold the LED/Button while switch onthe RX.
2. release the LED/Button pressed after several seconds, and LED will give oneflash per second(Start of programming).
3. Put the radio in the gear up position, pressing then the LED/Button. The LED give 2 flashes.
4. Put the radio in the gear down position, and press the LED/Button. The LED will give 3flashes (start configuration brakes).
5. Put the radio on brake 0% position, and press the LED/Button. The LED will give 4 flashes.
6. Put the radio on 100% brake position and press the LED/Button.The LED will give 5 flashes(Configuration of the rudder servo position).
7. Finally, put the rudder servo in the retracted position where you want to record, and press theLED/Button to save and end the programming.
Note:If you do not have brakes, just press the button trice until the LED gives 5 flashes, in ordert o set the centered position of the rudder servo.
The RB-45 disconnects the rudder servo and brake, when the retracts goes “UP”to avoid unnecessary movements or accidental energy consumption. This means that the steering servoand brakes only will work when the retracts are down
Last edited by wfield0455; 06-06-2017 at 12:41 PM.
#9
Good suggestion! It makes sense that the controller would have a method to adjust "sensitivity." I'll take a look back at the controller's instructions tonight. (its been a while since I set it up.) But, ... I do not recall such a detailed setup procedure. After that, next step will be to call George and see what he can tell me. But I want to check the instructions first, before I bug him!
#10
My Feedback: (7)
Good suggestion! It makes sense that the controller would have a method to adjust "sensitivity." I'll take a look back at the controller's instructions tonight. (its been a while since I set it up.) But, ... I do not recall such a detailed setup procedure. After that, next step will be to call George and see what he can tell me. But I want to check the instructions first, before I bug him!
#12
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Rb 45
I have a new RB 45 co controller and my brakes will not work. I have peogrammed many times according to i instructions. Stoll no brakes. Do i need to have radio set a certain way. Are there any switches recommended not to use.
Need help - TopRc Electric retracts and brakes not working
Need help - TopRc Electric retracts and brakes not working
Not sure if your retracts use a setup procedure similar to the Electron retracts??
Programming method
1. Hold the LED/Button while switch onthe RX.
2. release the LED/Button pressed after several seconds, and LED will give oneflash per second(Start of programming).
3. Put the radio in the gear up position, pressing then the LED/Button. The LED give 2 flashes.
4. Put the radio in the gear down position, and press the LED/Button. The LED will give 3flashes (start configuration brakes).
5. Put the radio on brake 0% position, and press the LED/Button. The LED will give 4 flashes.
6. Put the radio on 100% brake position and press the LED/Button.The LED will give 5 flashes(Configuration of the rudder servo position).
7. Finally, put the rudder servo in the retracted position where you want to record, and press theLED/Button to save and end the programming.
Note:If you do not have brakes, just press the button trice until the LED gives 5 flashes, in ordert o set the centered position of the rudder servo.
The RB-45 disconnects the rudder servo and brake, when the retracts goes “UP”to avoid unnecessary movements or accidental energy consumption. This means that the steering servoand brakes only will work when the retracts are down
Programming method
1. Hold the LED/Button while switch onthe RX.
2. release the LED/Button pressed after several seconds, and LED will give oneflash per second(Start of programming).
3. Put the radio in the gear up position, pressing then the LED/Button. The LED give 2 flashes.
4. Put the radio in the gear down position, and press the LED/Button. The LED will give 3flashes (start configuration brakes).
5. Put the radio on brake 0% position, and press the LED/Button. The LED will give 4 flashes.
6. Put the radio on 100% brake position and press the LED/Button.The LED will give 5 flashes(Configuration of the rudder servo position).
7. Finally, put the rudder servo in the retracted position where you want to record, and press theLED/Button to save and end the programming.
Note:If you do not have brakes, just press the button trice until the LED gives 5 flashes, in ordert o set the centered position of the rudder servo.
The RB-45 disconnects the rudder servo and brake, when the retracts goes “UP”to avoid unnecessary movements or accidental energy consumption. This means that the steering servoand brakes only will work when the retracts are down
#14
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I tried everything and nothibg seems to work. Although, it appears that the instructions are saying program the controller without have retracts and brakes connected to the board as he mentions making the connections after you've cycled the switches. I havet tried that yet. Programmed the controller with all connections already made.
#17
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Tried reprogramming according to all the below. Still no brakes. Retracts work fine. I dont have a multi-meter, i only have a fluke meter and ligli tester. Tomorrow i can go buy a mult-meter, and tough the brake outputs (pins) on the electron RB45 controller that the brake servo is plugging into. Any other recommendation or things i can try tonight.
#18
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Let me try a different approach. I have the TopRc Retracts for F9F Cougar with Electron RB45 Controller. Has anyone used this same combo, and if so, did you connect/wire your brake servo differently then pictured in the instructions. Did you use a different connection from the reciver to the controller other than recommended. I have to believe it needs to be wired diffent since these are not Electron retracts
#19
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Fixed
Guys, i found the fix. I now have working retracts and brakes with the Electron RB45 Controller. After placing a multmeter on the brake output pins from the board, i was not getting power from pins 1 and 2 which was how the TopRc brake was wired, but i was getting power from pin 1 (red), and pin 3 (black). So i put another servo extension end on the brakes using pins 1 and 3. Brakes work fine now. Thanks to everyone that tried to help me resolve the issue. I also want to give a thanks to Electron as i emailed them about the issue, even though my retracts did not come from them, they emIled me continuously offering recommendations until the problem was resolved a few minutes ago. So eventhough my retracts ate TopRc, i have to give the Shout-Out, to Electron
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Spektrum AR12310T
Guys, if anyone in interested, i just posted a new Spektrum AR12310T 12 Channel receiver on RC Universe for $170, i paid $199 for it. It is DSMX, and my JRXG14 is DMSS, they are not compatable which i learned after the purchase. Do you guys know of any add-ons that will make the two bind, i would prefer to keep it, but if not, it is up for sale. My JR Pro RG1131B receiver is getting warm to hot after a few minutes of applied power and I'm sure if its safe for flight. So i brought the AR12310T to teplace it.