Request for 1/16th Scale Panther G airbrushing tips
08-04-2019, 12:46 PM
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Request for 1/16th Scale Panther G airbrushing tips
Hello folks. I am new to airbrushing. Could anyone please suggest to me some tips on how to airbrush paint my 1/16th scale Taigen Panther G? Specifically, I would like to paint a three color pattern. In one hobby guidebook, I read that silly putty works well as a 'masking tool', because it is easily shaped and doesn't lift up the paint underneath. I might give this technique a try with my 1/35th scale tank models. But it doesn't sound practical for larger models: I think it would take too much putty to cover large patches of my 1/16th scale tank. So how else can I accomplish painting three color camo (so that it looks realistic)?
One other related question, I read that dark yellow was the standard base coat for Panthers (beginning in 1943) and that red brown and olive green were also used. I found German dark yellow and German red brown paint (made by a company called Vallejo). But I am not having any luck finding a German green paint made by any company. If anyone could advise me, I would sure appreciate it. With my 1/16th scale Tiger I (early model), airbrushing was an easier task because historically (if I read correctly) such tanks were painted in one color (dark grey) in the earlier years. But I am really stumbling around trying to find the right way to paint my Panther G
One other related question, I read that dark yellow was the standard base coat for Panthers (beginning in 1943) and that red brown and olive green were also used. I found German dark yellow and German red brown paint (made by a company called Vallejo). But I am not having any luck finding a German green paint made by any company. If anyone could advise me, I would sure appreciate it. With my 1/16th scale Tiger I (early model), airbrushing was an easier task because historically (if I read correctly) such tanks were painted in one color (dark grey) in the earlier years. But I am really stumbling around trying to find the right way to paint my Panther G
08-04-2019, 04:49 PM
#2
There are a lot of different techniques for painting a 3 color camo job, but I can give you mine. Let's start with the paint, if you're using Vallejo they're probably acrylic so you'll want to stay with acrylic. Vallejo makes that color and hopefully someone will join in with a number. Olivgrun is what you're looking for. I always use enamel so I can't be of much help in this area. As for painting itself, the first question is are you doing a soft Edge or hard Edge camouflage? If it's hard Edge silly putty is great for smaller areas and you can use tape or paper for larger areas. If it's soft Edge I'll use silly putty sometimes in small areas and then paper masks and I roll masking tape into small tubes to place behind the paper so that it is raised about a sixteenth of an inch above the surface. This requires careful airbrushing around the edges so I just admit from the start that I'm going to have to paint each color at least twice. I'll kind of rough it in it first and then touch up in round 2. I like to use a technique I brought from my aircraft building, and that is to start with the lightest color and work towards the darkest. I'll spray the entire tank was dunkelgelb, after primer of course, and then I mask off all the areas that I want to stay dunkelgelb. Then a coat of olive green, and the same thing, mask off the areas that I want to stay olive green. Then a final coat with the red Brown, allow twice the sufficient amount of drying time, remove all the masks, and very carefully touch up all three colors. I'm sure there are lots and lots of other techniques out there, but that's the way I usually do it. Hope that helps.
08-04-2019, 05:43 PM
#3
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WWII (and modern NATO) German camo are all soft-edge camo, which means that using putty might produce a hard edge, which might not be ideal.
The best way to do this is to do the camo freehand. The best way to camo freehand is as such:
1) Take off the needle protector tip of your airbrush - store in a safe place!
2) Thin down whatever camo colour you're using. Even thinner than usual. I use 6:4 Thinner:Paint ratio
3) Turn your PSI down to 10-15.
4) Test your spray pattern up close - There should be no spidering, and stray paint dots. It should come out as a nice thin line, slightly fuzzy on the edge. If spidering, turn down PSI, if stray dots, spray out some paint to remove the thicker paint, test again, if not, thin paint further
5) Spray the outline of your camo, with the airbrush pointed inwards towards the camo. Make the outline slightly thicker, so its easier when you want to fill it in.
6)Once outline is done, fill in with normal PSI and thinner.
I HIGHLY suggest not using pure acrylic like vallejo. They flake too easily, are very sensitive to thin-ness and thickness of the coat, tip dry all the time, and most importantly, is very poor on durability. Best is to use pure lacquers like the Mr Hobby range, followed by acrylic lacquers like Tamiya/AK real colours (NOT the standard AK stuff!!!), both thinned down with Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) - Trust me, you will thank me if you try both.
For pure acrylic, I have to thin it to the perfect ratio, because too thin, and the paint evaporates too fast, causing a very rough surface, too thick, it dries shiny and bumpy, almost like I used a normal paintbrush on it. Spray on too thick, you get the shiny, bumpy effect. Too thin, rough surface. Put masking tape, a finger, a speck of dust, or even breathe on it, a large chunk of paint comes off. Do enamel washes, it burns through the acrylic, and an even bigger piece falls off. Tip dry forces me to clean the tip every 30 seconds, each time with more and more thinner, till 30 minutes in, I have to do a strip clean and let it rest.
For lacquer, even if I put a big wet patch, MLT does it's job, and in 30 minutes, the patch is flat and dry. Even if not, I just reactivate by spraying MLT on it, and all is right with the world. Too thick, there'll be stray specks, but no biggie on base coats. Too thin, I just spray more to build up colour. In 30 minutes, I literally can roughly sand it with a wood file, and the paint has bonded so well that only the part I file is scratched off. I don't even know what tip dry is. Lacquer is super toxic compared to acrylics though, so do larger buts outside with a respirator, and smaller bits indoor with respirator.
For paints, use Tamiya XF60 (yellow), XF61 (green) and XF64 (brown). Better yet, buy the set from AK, just google AK real color German 1943-1945 set. You get the complete set then.
The best way to do this is to do the camo freehand. The best way to camo freehand is as such:
1) Take off the needle protector tip of your airbrush - store in a safe place!
2) Thin down whatever camo colour you're using. Even thinner than usual. I use 6:4 Thinner:Paint ratio
3) Turn your PSI down to 10-15.
4) Test your spray pattern up close - There should be no spidering, and stray paint dots. It should come out as a nice thin line, slightly fuzzy on the edge. If spidering, turn down PSI, if stray dots, spray out some paint to remove the thicker paint, test again, if not, thin paint further
5) Spray the outline of your camo, with the airbrush pointed inwards towards the camo. Make the outline slightly thicker, so its easier when you want to fill it in.
6)Once outline is done, fill in with normal PSI and thinner.
I HIGHLY suggest not using pure acrylic like vallejo. They flake too easily, are very sensitive to thin-ness and thickness of the coat, tip dry all the time, and most importantly, is very poor on durability. Best is to use pure lacquers like the Mr Hobby range, followed by acrylic lacquers like Tamiya/AK real colours (NOT the standard AK stuff!!!), both thinned down with Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) - Trust me, you will thank me if you try both.
For pure acrylic, I have to thin it to the perfect ratio, because too thin, and the paint evaporates too fast, causing a very rough surface, too thick, it dries shiny and bumpy, almost like I used a normal paintbrush on it. Spray on too thick, you get the shiny, bumpy effect. Too thin, rough surface. Put masking tape, a finger, a speck of dust, or even breathe on it, a large chunk of paint comes off. Do enamel washes, it burns through the acrylic, and an even bigger piece falls off. Tip dry forces me to clean the tip every 30 seconds, each time with more and more thinner, till 30 minutes in, I have to do a strip clean and let it rest.
For lacquer, even if I put a big wet patch, MLT does it's job, and in 30 minutes, the patch is flat and dry. Even if not, I just reactivate by spraying MLT on it, and all is right with the world. Too thick, there'll be stray specks, but no biggie on base coats. Too thin, I just spray more to build up colour. In 30 minutes, I literally can roughly sand it with a wood file, and the paint has bonded so well that only the part I file is scratched off. I don't even know what tip dry is. Lacquer is super toxic compared to acrylics though, so do larger buts outside with a respirator, and smaller bits indoor with respirator.
For paints, use Tamiya XF60 (yellow), XF61 (green) and XF64 (brown). Better yet, buy the set from AK, just google AK real color German 1943-1945 set. You get the complete set then.
08-04-2019, 11:26 PM
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Hello folks. Thanks for the detailed information (for explaining your airbrushing techniques). Yes, I have already found that pure acrylic (like the Vallejo I used on my Tiger I) chips/flakes really easily
Too bad, it sounds like the 'better', more durable paint (enamels and such) is also the most toxic. I guess with the right precautions using them is not a 'deal-breaker', though.
Too bad, it sounds like the 'better', more durable paint (enamels and such) is also the most toxic. I guess with the right precautions using them is not a 'deal-breaker', though.
08-05-2019, 04:34 AM
#5
German Ambush camouflage was hard-edged. Like I said, you'll get a million different opinions on this, so remember that the most important thing is that it's your tank and it only needs to please you. What everybody else thinks doesn't really matter.
08-05-2019, 04:36 AM
#6
And don't be afraid of enamels. I've been using testor's enamels all my life and they're absolutely great. You get a much better finish with enamel than acrylic because the enamel levels itself better. Clean up is a bit more involved and you have to keep it away from the kids, but give me enamel every time.
08-05-2019, 11:27 PM
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OK, thanks for all the tips, Gary. I think part of the reason why my acrylic paint has been flaking/chipping so easily is because I made the 'rookie' mistake of not using a 'primer' coat. Having said that, what is a good primer to use? (And is a primer just a layer of paint that other paint coats stick to better?).
Also, when you mentioned that you've used enamels a lot, do you mean they can be airbrushed, too (just making sure I understand- I've seen enamels like Testor's in little bottles that look more suited for brushing small details, but I'm not sure if they can be airbrushed)? Thanks in advance for clearing up these points for me.
Also, when you mentioned that you've used enamels a lot, do you mean they can be airbrushed, too (just making sure I understand- I've seen enamels like Testor's in little bottles that look more suited for brushing small details, but I'm not sure if they can be airbrushed)? Thanks in advance for clearing up these points for me.
08-06-2019, 01:52 AM
#8
As Crius said, the most important thing is you like it. Camo was applied in very different ways in the WW2. from spray guns to mops, so go and figure.
For me, the steps are like this:
grey Primer (The tamiya can works very good but it is expensive)
or automotive red primer (much cheaper, but dont use if you plan to pain the tank in white, because it will end being pink, lol)
Then first coat of dunkelgelb (Yellow) then the camo patches in the dark red and lastly the green.
Then you can use products to blend all the camo together. I use Mig for three tone camo
You can do more things like pin washes and weatherings, is up to you, but I finish the job with a coat or two of vallejo poliurethane matt varnish and the paint wont ever fall unless you crash your tank against something.
And I dont use enamels anymore. Are quite nasty with the airbrush and toxic. Even more toxic when diluted with solvents. I preffer to use acrilys with water or the tamiya paint diluted with alcohol
For me, the steps are like this:
grey Primer (The tamiya can works very good but it is expensive)
or automotive red primer (much cheaper, but dont use if you plan to pain the tank in white, because it will end being pink, lol)
Then first coat of dunkelgelb (Yellow) then the camo patches in the dark red and lastly the green.
Then you can use products to blend all the camo together. I use Mig for three tone camo
You can do more things like pin washes and weatherings, is up to you, but I finish the job with a coat or two of vallejo poliurethane matt varnish and the paint wont ever fall unless you crash your tank against something.
And I dont use enamels anymore. Are quite nasty with the airbrush and toxic. Even more toxic when diluted with solvents. I preffer to use acrilys with water or the tamiya paint diluted with alcohol
08-06-2019, 04:36 PM
#9
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If you use enamels, make sure that your pin washes/etc. are not enamel either, because they'll eat away your basecoat. That, and long drying time are the reasons I dislike enamels.
If you want a bonded primer coat, use either Tamiya primer (only downside is that its white, which is pretty hard to cover), or Mr Surfacer 1500 (I prefer black, so I can paint using black-basing technique) That coat will be virtually unchippable. Both are lacquers.
If you want to avoid lacquers, then Tamiya thinned with alcohol would be the least I would go, although its still lacquer based, and you need a respirator.
If you want pure acrylics, then I strongly suggest Stynylrez Primer. I think MIG bought the brand, and its now marketed as his "One-Shot" primer. It comes in different colours, is self-levelling, and is the hardest and least problematic of the acrylic primers.
If you want a bonded primer coat, use either Tamiya primer (only downside is that its white, which is pretty hard to cover), or Mr Surfacer 1500 (I prefer black, so I can paint using black-basing technique) That coat will be virtually unchippable. Both are lacquers.
If you want to avoid lacquers, then Tamiya thinned with alcohol would be the least I would go, although its still lacquer based, and you need a respirator.
If you want pure acrylics, then I strongly suggest Stynylrez Primer. I think MIG bought the brand, and its now marketed as his "One-Shot" primer. It comes in different colours, is self-levelling, and is the hardest and least problematic of the acrylic primers.
08-07-2019, 12:20 AM
#10
If you use enamels, make sure that your pin washes/etc. are not enamel either, because they'll eat away your basecoat. That, and long drying time are the reasons I dislike enamels.
If you want a bonded primer coat, use either Tamiya primer (only downside is that its white, which is pretty hard to cover), or Mr Surfacer 1500 (I prefer black, so I can paint using black-basing technique) That coat will be virtually unchippable. Both are lacquers.
If you want to avoid lacquers, then Tamiya thinned with alcohol would be the least I would go, although its still lacquer based, and you need a respirator.
If you want pure acrylics, then I strongly suggest Stynylrez Primer. I think MIG bought the brand, and its now marketed as his "One-Shot" primer. It comes in different colours, is self-levelling, and is the hardest and least problematic of the acrylic primers.
If you want a bonded primer coat, use either Tamiya primer (only downside is that its white, which is pretty hard to cover), or Mr Surfacer 1500 (I prefer black, so I can paint using black-basing technique) That coat will be virtually unchippable. Both are lacquers.
If you want to avoid lacquers, then Tamiya thinned with alcohol would be the least I would go, although its still lacquer based, and you need a respirator.
If you want pure acrylics, then I strongly suggest Stynylrez Primer. I think MIG bought the brand, and its now marketed as his "One-Shot" primer. It comes in different colours, is self-levelling, and is the hardest and least problematic of the acrylic primers.
08-07-2019, 05:35 AM
#11
Personally, I like the rusty metal primer in the spray can from Rust-Oleum. They advertise it as rusty metal primer, but it's actually a self etching primer. It comes in red oxide and it has always performed fantastically for me no matter what type of paint I wanted to put over the top of it. I just make sure to give 24 hours in between prime and paint and I've never had a single problem. And you get a huge can for about $3.
08-07-2019, 05:37 AM
#12
And D.B. is absolutely right about using opposites. If your base coat is enamel use acrylic or Oils for your washes, and vice versa. If you use acrylic paint, use enamel and/or oil for washes.
And I always apply a clear coat in between paint and washes. When I was building aircraft, I used a gloss clear coat in between paint and washes and then finished with a flat coat, and I just carried the same method over to tanks.
And I always apply a clear coat in between paint and washes. When I was building aircraft, I used a gloss clear coat in between paint and washes and then finished with a flat coat, and I just carried the same method over to tanks.
08-07-2019, 04:05 PM
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OK, thanks for all of the tips and ideas, folks. Plenty of good information (I figured I was asking in the right place). Truthfully, I'll probably just touch up my Tiger I with some more dark grey- on my first pass through, I had problems with getting the paint to fill in crevices and the lines around relief areas. Paint started building up around these places when I tried to fill them in. I read that lower pressure is the solution for that problem (I was using about 30 psi-probably too high). Then, I'll start hand brushing the shovel, tools, boxes and other relief. And put a sealing coat on it. For my Panther G, I have 'grander' designs of painting three color using some of the techniques you guys have explained.
I have just one dumb follow-up question for now: 'washing' your tank with another coat of paint is a technique to make the surfaces look more weathered (realistic), right? Thanks again for having helped a newcomer get started with all this (and for the sensible reminder from a few of you that I am painting my tanks and I should be satisfied with how they look when I'm done with em....
I have just one dumb follow-up question for now: 'washing' your tank with another coat of paint is a technique to make the surfaces look more weathered (realistic), right? Thanks again for having helped a newcomer get started with all this (and for the sensible reminder from a few of you that I am painting my tanks and I should be satisfied with how they look when I'm done with em....
08-07-2019, 04:23 PM
#14
There are different types of washes. Pin washes use a very, very thin paint that's flowed around things like lug nuts and in panel lines. Then there are washes that you apply overall and wash off, like flory (promodeler), which happens to be one of my favorites. You just slop it on with a large brush or spray it on with an airbrush, then take off what you don't want with a damp paper towel. I used it on this StuG.
08-07-2019, 09:00 PM
#15
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If you have issues with crevices, take the tip off, crank down the PSI, thin down your paint, and go real close.
If you are willing to use lacquers outside for at least the basecoat, I strongly recommend Testors Glosscote and Dullcote.
Like Crius said, there are few washes, but these 2 are the most commonly used:
Pinwash - with the finest brush you have, use a very very dark wash go around recesses and corners and make them stand out, then clean it off with enamel thinner to leave only the most recessed areas. This step is pretty much mandatory for any decent builds.
Filters - to cover the entire tank to unite the colours more closely. Ie. you paint a 3-tone tank, but want them not to stand out so much individually. It will darken your colours overall, so you need to paint a shade or 2 lighter (glosscoats will darken your tank slightly too). I personally dislike this method, but it works well with some people.
Look into other washes like oil dot filters and sludge wash too.
You can/should only wash over a glosscoat, so that the wash will flow into recesses.
I strongly recommend a lacquer coat if you want to wash, as I've had enamels burn through an acrylic topcoat, and even removed the basecoat while cleaning up the wash.
If you are willing to use lacquers outside for at least the basecoat, I strongly recommend Testors Glosscote and Dullcote.
Like Crius said, there are few washes, but these 2 are the most commonly used:
Pinwash - with the finest brush you have, use a very very dark wash go around recesses and corners and make them stand out, then clean it off with enamel thinner to leave only the most recessed areas. This step is pretty much mandatory for any decent builds.
Filters - to cover the entire tank to unite the colours more closely. Ie. you paint a 3-tone tank, but want them not to stand out so much individually. It will darken your colours overall, so you need to paint a shade or 2 lighter (glosscoats will darken your tank slightly too). I personally dislike this method, but it works well with some people.
Look into other washes like oil dot filters and sludge wash too.
You can/should only wash over a glosscoat, so that the wash will flow into recesses.
I strongly recommend a lacquer coat if you want to wash, as I've had enamels burn through an acrylic topcoat, and even removed the basecoat while cleaning up the wash.
09-21-2019, 04:34 PM
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Is Dunkelgelb (dark yellow) paint normally this green?
Hey folks, so after getting a lot of helpful advice from some of the posters here (and taking my slow time with trying new things), I finally tried some actual airbrushing of my 1/16th Panther G. I have what might be a rookie question. I put on a couple of coats of Vallejo Dunkelgelb (Dark Yellow) paint on my tank, and I actually like how it looks so far. I haven't ventured into masking and such to put on the other two colors I have in mind (Green Brown and Red Brown). And doing some of the 'washing' techniques that some of you explained to me on this thread is still a ways down the road for me. But I am making progress and getting steadier (I have a mild hand tremor, but I am getting a feel for when I need to move the airbrush more quickly (to keep too much paint from flooding). And thanks for the tip about taking off the tip/guard and spraying with very low pressure-it has helped me fill in the relief/crevices without 'drowning' everything surrounding the area.
Anyway, my 'possibly dumb question is why my tank now looks mostly yellow-green instead of dark yellow? (most of my painted tank surface looks more like a slightly unripened banana). I thought that maybe I had not shaken the bottle well enough before hand (I notice there is a little green tint that separates from the yellow in the bottle). And so I gave the bottle a doubly long shake before my second airbrushing session, but alas, after finishing another coat, the dried paint on my tank still looks the same quasi-green color. Maybe I got an 'off' batch of dunkelgelb paint from Vallejo? I guess my tank might not look historically correct with dark yellow paint of this actual shade (I'm completely in the dark on how it 'should' look), but I like the way it looks (so I guess that's a win). Thanks for letting me share my basic experience.
Anyway, my 'possibly dumb question is why my tank now looks mostly yellow-green instead of dark yellow? (most of my painted tank surface looks more like a slightly unripened banana). I thought that maybe I had not shaken the bottle well enough before hand (I notice there is a little green tint that separates from the yellow in the bottle). And so I gave the bottle a doubly long shake before my second airbrushing session, but alas, after finishing another coat, the dried paint on my tank still looks the same quasi-green color. Maybe I got an 'off' batch of dunkelgelb paint from Vallejo? I guess my tank might not look historically correct with dark yellow paint of this actual shade (I'm completely in the dark on how it 'should' look), but I like the way it looks (so I guess that's a win). Thanks for letting me share my basic experience.
09-21-2019, 05:14 PM
#17
I don't have any experience with valejo, but did you also stir the paint? I use a battery operated gizmo and make sure there's no thicker paint sticking to the bottom.
I have also seen off color batches of paint from a couple different brands, including testors, and I've also had trouble once or twice with flat paint that actually shot as a kind of satin finish.
The good news is you can get a fresh bottle of dunkelgelb and go over it again, maybe even adding as drop or two of white if you need to lighten it up.
What color primer did you use?
I have also seen off color batches of paint from a couple different brands, including testors, and I've also had trouble once or twice with flat paint that actually shot as a kind of satin finish.
The good news is you can get a fresh bottle of dunkelgelb and go over it again, maybe even adding as drop or two of white if you need to lighten it up.
What color primer did you use?
09-23-2019, 01:48 PM
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So how do you guys paint the tank road wheels so precisely?
Crius,
My reply is a bit delayed, but thanks for explaining about needing to stir the paint, too. I didn't stir (only shook the bottle well beforehand), but now I know better.... I may actually keep the 'dark yellow' paint job even though it looks yellow with slight green (and next try my hand at masking with the red brown and green). From what I've read, there was a lot of variation in the colors actually used on German tanks (despite the official orders to use dunkelgelb). So maybe I am not that historically inaccurate regardless.
A second question I could eventually use your take on (and/or other friendly posters here), what is the best way to precisely paint the road wheels on a 1/16th scale tank? My Panther G and my early Tiger I both have black rubber outer 'rims'. I'm wondering how to paint the 'inside metal circle' without painting over the black outer rim? (In most of the pictures of r/c tanks I've seen, only the metal part of the wheels are painted (either with one color or even camouflage pattern), and I would ultimately like to copy that effect). Is carefully cutting out circular shaped 'masks' from masking tape (like Tamiya) for each wheel the only way to accomplish this? I'm not in a rush (I take my time with trying new tasks), but thanks in advance for maybe advising on this.
My reply is a bit delayed, but thanks for explaining about needing to stir the paint, too. I didn't stir (only shook the bottle well beforehand), but now I know better.... I may actually keep the 'dark yellow' paint job even though it looks yellow with slight green (and next try my hand at masking with the red brown and green). From what I've read, there was a lot of variation in the colors actually used on German tanks (despite the official orders to use dunkelgelb). So maybe I am not that historically inaccurate regardless.
A second question I could eventually use your take on (and/or other friendly posters here), what is the best way to precisely paint the road wheels on a 1/16th scale tank? My Panther G and my early Tiger I both have black rubber outer 'rims'. I'm wondering how to paint the 'inside metal circle' without painting over the black outer rim? (In most of the pictures of r/c tanks I've seen, only the metal part of the wheels are painted (either with one color or even camouflage pattern), and I would ultimately like to copy that effect). Is carefully cutting out circular shaped 'masks' from masking tape (like Tamiya) for each wheel the only way to accomplish this? I'm not in a rush (I take my time with trying new tasks), but thanks in advance for maybe advising on this.
09-23-2019, 03:24 PM
#19
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Paint the whole wheel black. Roughly mask off the side of the wheel, and paint the entire inside but with the colour you want. Use a brush and paint the outer rim black. If you thin down your paints enough, it'll look completely flat, even though it was brush painted. Vallejo acrylics are actually superior to lacquer or lacquer based acrylics like Tamiya for brush painting.
Brush painting is unavoidable in some situations, and a great skill to learn. Just be sure to thin it down. It should take 2-3 coats to completely cover the rims with black. Black is one of the most forgiving colours to paint too.
Strongly recommend sealing with a layer of testors glosscote, wash, then dullcote. If you don't want to use lacquers in your airbrush, then buy a can and spray outside. Acrylic topcoats are extremely weak, and friction will rip the black paint apart like paper the moment you drive it.
Would not advise masking on vallejo acrylics at all, the paint lifts far too easily. I know you want a hard camo, but I'd strongly advise to try soft and see if you like it better, and if not, to use silly putty to mask, instead of tape, which will definitely lift paint off, and cause a nightmare. (This is why I use lacquers as far as I can)
Brush painting is unavoidable in some situations, and a great skill to learn. Just be sure to thin it down. It should take 2-3 coats to completely cover the rims with black. Black is one of the most forgiving colours to paint too.
Strongly recommend sealing with a layer of testors glosscote, wash, then dullcote. If you don't want to use lacquers in your airbrush, then buy a can and spray outside. Acrylic topcoats are extremely weak, and friction will rip the black paint apart like paper the moment you drive it.
Would not advise masking on vallejo acrylics at all, the paint lifts far too easily. I know you want a hard camo, but I'd strongly advise to try soft and see if you like it better, and if not, to use silly putty to mask, instead of tape, which will definitely lift paint off, and cause a nightmare. (This is why I use lacquers as far as I can)
Last edited by dingobattler; 09-23-2019 at 03:34 PM.
09-23-2019, 04:09 PM
#20
Okay, first the paint colors. From my aircraft days I've seen guys argue back and forth for eternity about correct colors. Here's the problem, paint a BF 109 and then stick the paint can in the closet and Park the bf-109 out on the tarmac for 3 or 4 weeks. Now take the original can of paint and a small brush and go out there and see if they're still the same color. They won't be. Get it close, get it so that you like the way it looks, and don't worry about it from there.
as for painting road wheels, I'm sure Dingobattler's method Works real well for plastic road wheels but it sounds to me like you have metal. I take the road wheels off the tank, take the rubber tires off the road wheels, scuff with Scotch-Brite and use a decent red oxide primer, and then paint the color I want. I let them sit for at least two days before I try to put the tires back on. Then you can apply washes or whatever you want to use for weathering. Weather the tires with the rims.
as for painting road wheels, I'm sure Dingobattler's method Works real well for plastic road wheels but it sounds to me like you have metal. I take the road wheels off the tank, take the rubber tires off the road wheels, scuff with Scotch-Brite and use a decent red oxide primer, and then paint the color I want. I let them sit for at least two days before I try to put the tires back on. Then you can apply washes or whatever you want to use for weathering. Weather the tires with the rims.
10-23-2019, 11:42 PM
#22
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Location: Vienna, VA
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Four photos of 1/35th scale airbrushing attempt
Hello folks,
So I figured I would try airbrushing camouflage on a couple of 1/35th scale tank models that I have (as practice) before airbrushing on my 1/16th scale r/c tanks. As you can see from the photos I posted in the last post, it turned out really lousy on both I am not optimistic about painting my 1/16th scale tanks with realistic-looking camouflage. I'm actually really embarrassed to share my work, but I would appreciate honest constructive criticism on what I am doing wrong. Obviously, my technique stinks: the camo just doesn't look right/realistic. Thanks again for any feedback.
So I figured I would try airbrushing camouflage on a couple of 1/35th scale tank models that I have (as practice) before airbrushing on my 1/16th scale r/c tanks. As you can see from the photos I posted in the last post, it turned out really lousy on both
I am not optimistic about painting my 1/16th scale tanks with realistic-looking camouflage. I'm actually really embarrassed to share my work, but I would appreciate honest constructive criticism on what I am doing wrong. Obviously, my technique stinks: the camo just doesn't look right/realistic. Thanks again for any feedback.
10-24-2019, 02:28 AM
#23
Hello folks,
So I figured I would try airbrushing camouflage on a couple of 1/35th scale tank models that I have (as practice) before airbrushing on my 1/16th scale r/c tanks. As you can see from the photos I posted in the last post, it turned out really lousy on both I am not optimistic about painting my 1/16th scale tanks with realistic-looking camouflage. I'm actually really embarrassed to share my work, but I would appreciate honest constructive criticism on what I am doing wrong. Obviously, my technique stinks: the camo just doesn't look right/realistic. Thanks again for any feedback.
So I figured I would try airbrushing camouflage on a couple of 1/35th scale tank models that I have (as practice) before airbrushing on my 1/16th scale r/c tanks. As you can see from the photos I posted in the last post, it turned out really lousy on both
I am not optimistic about painting my 1/16th scale tanks with realistic-looking camouflage. I'm actually really embarrassed to share my work, but I would appreciate honest constructive criticism on what I am doing wrong. Obviously, my technique stinks: the camo just doesn't look right/realistic. Thanks again for any feedback.Camo is more complicated than it seems, but my only tip is never apply camo to the wheels, because it looks horrible when the tank is moving. Either all the wheel of the same color, or the entire wheels of diferent colors, but no strips or patches.
Just my opinion.
10-24-2019, 02:26 PM
#25
Member
Hello folks,
So I figured I would try airbrushing camouflage on a couple of 1/35th scale tank models that I have (as practice) before airbrushing on my 1/16th scale r/c tanks. As you can see from the photos I posted in the last post, it turned out really lousy on both I am not optimistic about painting my 1/16th scale tanks with realistic-looking camouflage. I'm actually really embarrassed to share my work, but I would appreciate honest constructive criticism on what I am doing wrong. Obviously, my technique stinks: the camo just doesn't look right/realistic. Thanks again for any feedback.
So I figured I would try airbrushing camouflage on a couple of 1/35th scale tank models that I have (as practice) before airbrushing on my 1/16th scale r/c tanks. As you can see from the photos I posted in the last post, it turned out really lousy on both
I am not optimistic about painting my 1/16th scale tanks with realistic-looking camouflage. I'm actually really embarrassed to share my work, but I would appreciate honest constructive criticism on what I am doing wrong. Obviously, my technique stinks: the camo just doesn't look right/realistic. Thanks again for any feedback.1) How many layers did you spray on? You need to go another 1-2 layers on your camo, because whatever paint you're using is quite thin. Do it till the colour is saturated. You need to fill in the areas you've sprayed. Alcohol base or lacquer base paints like Tamiya will solve these saturation issues in a single pass BTW - which is another big reason why I hate acrylics.I only use acrylics if I want to spray washable white camo, precisely because the saturation is poor and looks bad.
2) For the freehand soft camo on the panther - Did you lower your PSI to 10-15, thin slightly more, go really near and take the cap off your airbrush when doing the edges? Yours looks really soft. Its very soft IRL, but because its so big, when you zoom out to scale model distance, it looks very tight instead. I've posted a pic of my leopard here. It roughly needs to be that tight.
3) For the hard edged camo on the stug, I notice that you stop spraying where there'll be overspray, like the over the top, next to the wheels, or at the top of the shurzen. You can mask it off using tape if you want to prevent overspray. Also, there is saturation issues, where you didn't complete the camo on some areas.
4) For the hard edged camo, it'll look very stark till you unify it with a filter. A filter is necessary IMO for hard edged camo. Don't make your own filter if you're starting out, go get one from Ammo, to see how thin it should be. It should be extremely thin, and used mainly for flat surfaces. Wick any build up from recesses
5) The masking on the hard edged camo looks very straight, and not curved. Use silly putty, or just get specialty scale model putty. Its easier to mask with, than with tape. I personally think that blu-tack is one of the worst things you can use, too sticky, too hard, will leave marks in recesses and will take off paint. Study one of the paint guides, most of the camo curves around very naturally, without sharp angles. Also, you need to control your airbrush, and really mask properly. I can see unintentional overspray on the lower left corner of the shurzen of the STUG. That's just the most obvious one. there's a lot more for the others, just not as bad. If hard edged is too hard, stick to soft edge to practice airbrush control, especially going in low and tight on the edges.
6) You need to take off the tools and spray if you can. Makes your life much easier than trying to mask them.
7) I can see the spidering and tide marks on your STUG. That is caused by excessive thinning, and too high PSI. Try thinning less, and lowering your PSI. This problem becomes much better with non-acrylics BTW. Also, don't worry if there's a lot of these on your model, because it'll mostly go away once your topcoat it, and should completely disappear once you weather.
8) The yellow is too yellow. A filter will fix it.
9) Once you paint the tracks/tools, glosscoat, pinwash, filter, oil dot, matte coat, pigment, the tank should look much darker and better regardless. It should darken by roughly 2 tones, so actually, your colour choice is pretty good, because its really light.
Last edited by dingobattler; 10-24-2019 at 02:33 PM.