SVX

Well I am a little depressed at how the sheeting came out on my TF At-6. On the fuselage the curve is interupted where the two pieces meet so instead of getting a smooth round feel it is more intermittent. I understand the solution to this is strip planking but I was never very successful at that either. (ant tips on that will be also appreciated) The wing is what really irritates me. Again as I feel down the airfoil it is not smooth. You can feel where the center spar is. Are my expectations high or are there secrets that I am not aware of? I am not a beginner but by no means a master, just striving for a perfectly smooth plane, before fiberglass.

Thanks, SVX

Stew99

Your expectations may be too high for a Top Flight kit. The soft, thin sheeting supplied in their kits makes it difficult to get an even surface and if you try to sand it very much it gets so thin and brittle it will break from just normal handling. If there is a secret it is to make sure the undersurface is smooth and even before you sheet it. My approach has been to use filler to get a good transition on the worst places, fiberglass it, and use expoxy and microballons to even out the final surface. The best thing for a Top Flite kit is probably to just build it to fly and save your artistic efforts for larger warbirds but us perfectionists can't seem to let it go at that.

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

Yeah, the frame work need to be pretty neat and tidy. Like painting, sheeting will show the imperfections.

As for actually making 'sheeting' her are a few tricks I';ve picked up over the years..

No matter what, you'll sand the sheeting, bioth before and after it's applied. If teh design calls for 1/16", go and buy 3/32" and use it. Once sanded, it'll be about 1/16"

Always true the edges before glueing (cut off about a 1/16" off each edge, to nesure they are straight!) some sheets I've received have been bowed quite a bit, as must as a 1/4"!

Use Aliphatic resin (Yellow carpenter's / wood glue) instead of CA to butt glue the sheets together. CA dries very hard, and will alwasy leave a ridge when sanding. Carpenter's glue is soft, and sands nicely.

SOme peope tape the seams of the sheets (masking tape) then flex the seam, and apply a bead of glue. The flex it back to 'flat' and let sit. I prefer to pin on sheed down, apply a bead of glue, then butt the next sheet against it ensure it's flat (run your finger down the seam) and pin in place. Also use a long sanding barm ruler on edge, etc.. to ensure the edges are flat, level, even, etc.. The carpentuer's glue allows for soem repositioning. Add weights to hold averthign flat.

Try to use similar sheets / peices next to each other.

Repeat as needed to make up the skins

sand the whole sheet, top and bottom, before applying it to the air-frame. in small circles over the seam, seems to yeild teh best results, and with a fairly fine grit.

You should have a skin that is smooth both sides, and the seams be almost impossible to see / feel! (use the back of your hand / fingers, more sensitive)

apply to airframe!

If all went as planed, you shoul only need to blend teh sheeting edges with the edges of the airframe; leading edges, and trailing edges. And a final sanding when all is complete!

hope that helps!

higheronnitro

Try
Stip planking:
When making your strips use one of those adjustable units sold at most model shops and slightly taper the blade. Flip the sheet so the end result is one side is wider than the other. When planking you will find the two strips will bead in together with less gaps.
Wing panels:
The only way to get good results is to join the sheets together prior to covering the wing. This allows you to get stuck in with the sand paper and make a really good job before being applied to the wing. If you can feel the spar maybe the slots were not deep enough prior to the skin being applied? A quick check is to use a pair of dark pantyhose slipped over the wing prior to covering this will show up the high and low spots (just make sure you ask "her indoors" before using her best pair!! )
Nothing wrong with striving to be perfect but dont let this get in the way of enjoying the process!!
Best regards Steve

SVX

Pantyhose? Well thats a neat idea. I will have to try that. I sanded the whole wing and fuse with a 22 inch bar sander before I sheeted anything. I was pretty sure that the edges of the ribs were flush with the center spar but then again I didn't use pantyhose. I can seem to get a good straight smooth wing skin I thing my problem is I don't prep the frame work enough. I like the idea of using 3/32, I'll bet that would help allot. I think that I am just going to finish it and move on to my next project. I have plans for a Taylor P-40 and I have ordered foam wing cores specifically in response to the at-6. One more question, using the wood glue how do you keep it in place? I need my hotstuff..

SVX

Shihtzutan

Well since nobodies mentioned it yet, here goes . . .

True the edges, tape together, reverse fold, white glue, wipe, wax paper, weigh down with magazines. Sand smooth (one side only). Now for the new part,. . .

Apply contact cement on framework. Apply contact cement on rear of sheeting (by the way this is the same technique as sheeting over foam core wings). Roll the frame onto the sheeting with the sheeting lying on a flat surface. Try it on the tail surfaces first so you get the hang of it. You can always cut a new tail if you screw it up!

I was a little concerned with the surface area of the framework being too small to hold, but because I was going to fiberglass the whole damn structure anyway, figured I give this a try on the TF P-47. It worked beautifully! The fiberglass seems to make this technique successful because I use thinned epoxy for maximum penetration. Fill the weave with automotive primer. My airframe is solid and relatively lightweight!