P-40LUVR

I tried to print out a decal on to white Monocoat trim paper which i guess is about the same as decal paper..well it doesn't work,the decal came out as little "blothes" of ink and would not dry to the film,i guess the ink needs a paper to sink in to.
Does anyone have a GOOD idea for making decals,im trying to make the Tiger Mouth on a p-40 warhawk.
By the way i used an inkjet printer.

LesUyeda

You will probably not get a decal of any sort to wrap around the complex curvature of the area you are trying to cover. I cut my pieces out of trim Monokote, and applied the teeth as individual pieces.

Les

Stew99

Monokote trim is nowhere near the same as decal paper. Monokote is a slick plastic that the water based inkjet ink will not stick to. Decal paper has some sort of lacquer coating on paper. Even then you have to have a decal paper designed especially for inkjets. I painted my sharkmouth on using frisket paper for a mask. It wasn't that hard to do. I have used a laser printer on decal paper for letters and numbers that also worked well. I have not yet tried making any complex color decals.

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

You do need to use decal type paper. There are two kinds so be careful here. One is for ink jet and one is for laser. I have been using a product called "Reprofilm" by a company called Raven. Comes in gloss or satin. I used to get mine at a local Art and Drafting supply store but now I purchase from the following website:

www.syscontech.com/supplygraph/rayven.htm

You can also get ink jet decal paper from micromark (www.micromark.com).

I believe you need to use (or should use) a spray "fixitive" to set the ink. I use the laser product so I don't need to do that.

I fuel proof my decals with Lusterkote.

works for me.

Dan

branded

My Feedback: (9)

One more thing. If you have the color white in the decal you need to order a paper that has a white background as the inkjet does not make white. Your choices are white background, and clear.

BTW, I agree with a previous poster. You'll never get a shark tooth mouth decal to conform to the shape of the cowling.

Shrky

I've never used decals on R/C models before but I've used hundreds of them on model railroad engines and rolling stock. I always used a decal softener called solvaset. It made the decal very soft and flexable such that it would form around rivets and other details without "tenting". I'm sure something like this would work on the gental curves of a cowl.

Scott

smitymax

Check out www.beldecal.com. Have good selection of inkjet white and/or clear. Good prices. I have used it and seems to be quite flexible but have not used it on sharp curves.

MR Flyer57

If you look at my avatar, you can see that I have a special fondness for the shark teeth. I have done a few of them and always did it with monokote.

I lay down the white first and then cover it with the color of the plane and then cut the reverse teeth and add the red over the white.

I cut out the teeth with a razor on a mirror, if your non flying friends show up,, just try to explain the mirror with the razor blade on it sitting on the coffee table!!

I have included a picture of my little Chicken Hawk, with a toothy smile to show you my finished job.

As for doing stuff on the printer, Dickybird send me some decals and some laminating film to cover them with.

So I think there is a way to do it on the printer, but I really can't imagine how.

MR Flyer57

gtisme

I just found a new product to try making decals with and so far they have worked out. Avery 4380 "Body Art Stickers" for inkjet. You only get three 8 1/2 X 11 sheets in a pack for about $6 to $8 at Wal-Mart. You print to the outside of the sticker, so you must use a clear sealer after printing and before installing. The "sticker" is a very flexible and stretchy film that should go over uneven surfaces. I made some decals for my WACO bipe and they have held up so far (4 or 5 flying sessions).

You have to be careful and patient when applying them because the film wants to roll up on itself when peeled off the backing. I found that you can use Windex to keep the film completely wet on both sides as you start to remove the backing. Keep Windex on the model surface also. As you start to peel the film off the backing, start laying it on the model to keep the adhesive side on a wet surface as the backing is pulled away (you don't want it to stick to itself).
I used an acrylic gloss sealer from the crafts department at Wal-Mart which has proven to hold up well to castor oil residue.

That's my $.02
Gary

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

I actually printed a Cub logo on plain paper and carefully trimmed it to size. I adhered it to the tail of the Cub by slowly saturating it with CA.

It stuck well and seemed to hold up to fuel pretty well. But I sold the Cub after only a couple of flights. (It was 1/2A, too small.)
Dennis-

AlStack

My Feedback: (1)

I have used ink jet decal paper for my decals without ant problem. Four things to remember as mentioned above.

1. Make sure the covering material is perfectly clean.
2. Float the decals on with plenty of water.
3. Use solvaset or another good decal softener to give decal a chance to conform.
4. Seal the decal twice with a clear fuel proof paint. Once after you print it and again after it is completly dry on the surface.

The last sealing isn't as important if you are not using glow fuel or gas.

The injet printers do an outstanding job. Just be patient and the results will be great!

AL

AirBearMA

My Feedback: (1)

To do decals with an inkjet, you need special decal paper AND an inkjet printer that uses special waterfast fade resistant inks. Otherwise it will either run or fade out on you pretty quickly.

hnesitd1

A magazine gave good reviews to a product sold by this company. Check it out at:


http://www.decalfactory.com/

airframe

Flip it over and print it on the paper backing and then cut it out.

TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

I found something last month at Office Depot that worked fairly well.
It is a window tranfer material that is clear and works with ink jet printers. It cost about $10 for 10 sheets 8x11.

I used my MicroSoft Word program and transfered the file I wanted and set it up and then printed it to the transfer material. The only problem was it wont be fuel proof and water will smear the ink too. So I tried this on the smaller decals I made. Use the clear tape that is used for strapping boxes for shipping to cover the inked side of the transfer. It takes a little patience and skill but it can be done then trim it just around the edges of your design. There is adhesive on the decal side and it holds well enough to not fly off in flight but the neat thing is you can remove it with out pulling the finish off or your monocote job. Easy to replace and you can make about any design you want.

I havent tried clearcoating one yet but thats the next experiment.

Here is one that I made from a scan of this patch I had.

Aint it fun?

Wayne

kitfoxkid

My Feedback: (1)

Very nice work!!!, did you have a plan of this model?, maybe I'll build it here in Argentina!! And with the teeths Too!!
best regards.

dalolyn

My Feedback: (7)

What I used or I should say my wife Lori was clear shipping labels, for inkjet, with a sticky back pick them up at office depot. Printed then sealed with clear luster coat. She sized and formatted the design it was the tsunami design under my user name. I found out how from a thread on the old RCU. I will post o pick of the design and the bird after the design was on.

Jim Messer

My Feedback: (2)

I print all of my decals on Avery full sheet label paper. One has a white background and is Avery 8165. The other has a clear background and is Avery 8665. Use the white background if there is white in the decal that you are trying to make.

After printing, spray the label with Krylon crystal clear, and let it dry. Peel the back and stick the new decal to your airplane.

Attached is a photo of the famous CUB label that I have made in 1/4, 1/3, and 40% scale sizes.

This works for me. I hope it works for you also.

DOH_Blk_Adder

I'm wondering if photo ink cartridge would work better or transparencies

Jim Messer

My Feedback: (2)

Have no experience with photo inkjet cartridges, therefore no opinion.

DOH_Blk_Adder

http://www.mcgpaper.com/inkjetdecbyd.html...


FYI





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somthing I found today thought id pass it along