nearmissbt

I am getting ready to cover a <font color=white style="background-color: 3E3E3E;"> Goldberg Anniversary Cub</font ft> [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] with Silk and need some application techniques explained by all you great builders.. Years ago I covered Control line Planes using Ambroid Glue around the edges and applying wet silk and pulling up tight and pinning.. It worked fine then but I can't seem to find the same ambroid glue now.. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]I appreciate your replies !
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ALL TAKEOFFS ARE OPTIONAL[*]
ALL LANDINGS ARE MANDANTORY [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

skyrider2

My Feedback: (2)

Boy, that really takes me back. Here's the way we used to do it.

1 - Put 2 or 3 light coats of clear nitrate dope on the edges where you want the silk to adhere.
2 - Place a slightly oversized piece of silk on a surface, i. e., the top or bottom of the wing.
3 - Spray the silk very lightly with water
4 - Smooth the edges drawing the silk smooth. The dampness will make it adhere to the doped edges.
5 - Brush on thin nitrate along the edges; it dries very quickly. As the silk dries, it will shrink taut.
6 - Paint with clear or colored dope (spraying is best)

Skyrider2

sinker

nearmissbt,
It's been quite a while since I covered anything with silk, but we used to apply a couple coats of butyrate dope to everything, then stretch the wet silk over the framework and use dope thinner to stick everything down. That softens up the dope enough to get a good bond.

ksink

FHHuber

WASH THE SILK! use Wollite or similar delicates type detergent. Wash and rinse to get rid of any "sizing" or other added chemicals applied to get the silk to go through the weaving machines better. this avoids some problems with getting the cloth weave to seal up.

Apply the cloth while its still wet (not dripping...) from being washed. It stretches over the compound curves VERY nicely when wet.

Ambroid is still available. The LHS here stocks it.

LouW

Skyrider2 has the procedure exactly as I used it. When I returned to the hobby several years ago, I built and covered an old Berkley Brigadier ( a kit from the attic), with silk because thats the way I used to do it and I didn't know any better. It turned out fine, and am still flying that airplane from time to time. Then I discovered Sig Koverall which I have used for everything since. Koverall is stronger, goes on easier, is more durable, and looks good. For a translucent finish (where in times past I would dye the silk and use clear dope) I add analine dye to the dope and spray the finish on. While my basic modeling skills are 30-40 years old, a lot of the new processes and materials are significant improvements over the old. ( However, I still haven't been able to bring myself to cover an airplane with the plastic films.)

Skyler

Sky Rider 2 is right on with his advice. Especially the part about the NITRATE dope!

Rodney

As mentioned above, use NITRATE --not Butyrate -- for the initial applications and first coats. You can later put Butyrate over the nitate later for fuel proofing but; you can not apply nitrate over Butyrate and get good results.

rcalfred

The October 1993 issue of Model Aviation has a complete article by Robert Munn on covering with silk. Assuming you don't have the issue you can go to the AMA website and click around the archives and get to this article. It is complete with photos and a step-by-step how-to. It tells all that you need to know about how to do this successfully. Regards.

nearmissbt

I wanted to thank every one for your answers and quick responses! I'm on my way to the covering job now[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]