PTS

My Feedback: (153)

I have read many posts concerning building surfaces. I have a 4x8 3/4" particle board base to start with. I have read that 1/2" tempered glass is the way to go but Ouch! Can someone re-clarify what is truly the most effective way to have a flat and level work surface. Thanks...

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Yes glass is a great surface, but the cost can get to you in a hurry. I use hollow core doors. you can get them at lowe's (or any such store) for about $20. the three I have are very flat (checked with a 4' straight edge) and you can get your pins into the wood. works well for me


just my 2 cents worth

J_R

I have been using a pattern makers plank for 20 years or so. It's still straight and true. Mine is pine 2"x18"x96". Pins go in fine. I am not sure of the cost currently. I checked a couple of years ago and the same board was about $120 plus freight. They are made kinda like a bowling alley lane, and available in different thicknesses and woods. http://www.freemansupply.com/PerfectPlankSpecia.htm

JR

CafeenMan

I use tempered glass, but it needs to be on something that will keep it flat because it can and will bow. I built my bench from 3/4" press board and put the glass on top of it.

What I am using to actually build on is metal sheet. It's the best system I've ever used so I did a how-to article on it.

Build with Magnets

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

I use hollow core doors as mentioned above, with the soft particle board that is used for insulation on top. I don't know what it is called but you can get both things at Lowe's or Home Depot. It makes for a nice flat surface that you can easily push pins into.

Jim

ballgunner

My Feedback: (1)

Tower and Micro Mark both sell laminated balsa building boards. I have the largest one they sell and have used it for some years. Pins go in easily and because the boards are laminated they do not warp but remain flat. I was thinking of getting a new one but after a closer look kept the old one. A new one would be prettier but no more efficient.

rorywquin

With high density cork flooring tiles on one surface for the pins!

FW190D

A sheet of Dry Wall on top of my work bench has always worked well for me. Push pins go in very easily, and you can cut balsa directly on it without marking up your bench. Plus, it's cheap! When it gets too cut up or dirty, turn it over, or simply get a new piece.

LUNATIC

My Feedback: (4)

I use a old office desk with pink foam on top. The pink foam sheets are available at Lowe's or Home Depot for under $10.00.

rflasch

My Feedback: (8)

Jim (tmoth4) I think I use the same thing and it is called soundproofing, it is about 1/2 thick and looks like compressed soft fibers,it's cheap, reversable, and pins real nice--my only problem is my cat 'Wolf' loves to get his damn claws in it !!! That's the price you pay when you share the garage with a cat !!!

RC-Captain

Hey FW190D ,

Im with you on being cheap , right now Im using a collapsed moving box on top of my mothers old table I received when I moved .... The box is doubled up and the pins unbeleivably hold tight.

P.S. rflasch .....I have a cat too so I know the feeling...He will not stay off the table and knocks over my pins if I dont close them . Hmmmmm maybe he will get his paw stuck in the CA thick and this will scare him enough to stay away from my stuff , [sm=lol.gif]

PTS

My Feedback: (153)

This site is GREAT! I truly cannot believe the response. I should of got into this hobby many years ago. Thanks for the great tips...

bluther

I have used a solid wood door with celotex glued to the top of the door. I then glue 1/4 inch sheet cork on top of the celotex. This makes for a very good and straight building board . Pins are held easily and it is also great for cutting covering material etc. I've had the same board since 1988 and no problems.
Bill

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

The best surface I found is a product called Homosote. Find it at your local lumber yard under soundproofing. It's about 3/4" thick, lays flat. Costs around $15.00 for a 4' x 8' sheet.

OldRookie

My Feedback: (13)

I just started a new project using a piece of 1/2" SheetRock for a surface to pin into.
I have tried Homosote, Celotex, and cork for a surface to pin into, and didn't really like any of them. None of them seemed to hold the pins very well. The SheetRock is the BEST. The pins hold well, are not hard to get in or out, and the 4' X 8' sheet was about $4.50. I have the SheetRock on a piece of 1/2" plate glass to keep it flat.
I am also working on getting a magnetic surface building board together, but that is another story.

Greg

scott7x71

The best table I've evr used was a door. How often have you seen a door twist or bow? Not very, if ever. I have mine laid on an 8 ft table and shimmed to make it level. Then I used pipe tape(the metal strap with the holes along the center) to secure it to the tabletop.

You don't have use a long table either. Just as long as it's supported and secure you'll be fine.

Combat Addict

OK, I know I'm the cheap one now.
What I use is 2 saw horses. Overthem I have a large piece of plywood (2x6). Found all this except sawhorses. I like the plastic kind. Then on top of that I use blue insulation. Pins are easy, cheap, I can cover it about 3 times, for under $10. Also reversible. Nice stuff. Cheap.

Deadeye

2X4 ceiling tile fits some pretty big projects. I just lay the 3/4 inch thick tile on my 1 1/2 pressboard work table. Pins push right in, and it lays nice and flat.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

I use a 9' solid oak door that came from a local university remodeling project (used)
the door is very heavy and very straight , it wont warp like some hollow core doors
I have it supported by saw horses an shimed to level . when i need to pin to it i lay a sheet of
1/2 " sheetrock on top . this has worked very well for me for nearly seven years . check with some construction salvagers in your area for price and avail. ,or check with any local college that may have a
surplus .

BWooster

I have used fir plywood, low density fiberboard (Homosote, I believe- it's like acoustic tile) and drywall (SheetRock). All have advantages. All have a common disadvantage, i.e. no matter how hard you try, it is hard not to build some tension into the structure, and have a little warpage when you remove it from the board.

The technique that worked the best for producing a true structure was a steel rod jig, with two parallel steel threaded rods. Nuts and washers hold wing ribs. Fuselage formers are held in custom cut cradles. It's a lot of work, though, and because of that I have only used it once.

DrDeath

My Feedback: (3)

Solid core door here. It weighs a ton, but it will never warp. Got mine at Lowes for $20 bucks!!!! It had water stains on one side so they couldn't sell it as a door. Guess it was just my lucky day!!!

Lee

spirit pilot

I went with a hollow core door as well, with a spray adhesive to secure ceiling tile in place. For support I bought a pair of plastic adjustable sawhorses from Home Depot. Works great

grinder-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

I went with slate and 3'x12' sheet of Homasote. The hollow door works good too.

Grinder.

pete913

This is what i use. After fighting warped or sagging benches for years, I finally decided there had to be a better way. What I did was to buy two sheets of 5/8 fir plywood, and rip one of them into 8" strips. I then built a rectangular box 24" x 96"x8"high, inside which are 8'' high cross braces zig zagged across from end to end at 45 degree angles. But before I fastened the cross bracing in, I set the whole thing on the floor, and using two good levels, shimmed it off the floor so it was exactly level aross the 24" dimension from end to end. Then I fastened in the cross bracing,using glue and drywall screws, checking constantly for warpage. Don't worry if some of the braces aren't cut exactly square on the 45 degree angles and stick up a bit, just keep it level crosswise. The high spots are easily planed or sanded down flush later. Once this is done, the structure becomes so rigid it simply won't flex, not even with two of your biggest buddies standing on it. Then i ripped the other sheet of plywood in half, and applied one half to the top, and the other to the bottom. It's far and away the flattest and most rigid building board i've ever seen or heard of. I made some legs for the far end out of 3/4" plywood, and the other end rests on a small toolbox i had laying around, fastened with screws through a flange on it. I had some scrap oak window casing laying around, so i screwed that around the edge as well.Throw a piece of homasote, or whatever you like to use to hold pins on top, and thats it. the only tools i used to build it were an 8' straightedge, available at most any home center, a skillsaw and an electric drill. I nailed 4 handy boxes with electrical outlets in them to it, two on each side,wired them all to a cord that plugs into the wall.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I use a sheet of 3/4 mdf board or particle board most of you call it and I glue a ceiling tile with the back side that is flat facing up. I can stick pins in it and if the surface gets chewed up too bad (about two years) I throw it out and make a new one. They only cost about $7.00 to build a 2'x4' board assembly, there flat, solid, transportable and take a lot of abuse.[:-]