zetor

My Feedback: (2)

I want to cut a hatch out and all I have is big thick hacksaw blades. Is there a better tool for this?

Jimmbbo

Xacto makes a small razor saw blade for their small (#11 size) handle... It's about 1 1/4 inches long, 5/16 inch high and .015 thick, with about 64 teeth per inch... easy to use for cutting in balsa/basswood...

If you're trying to cut thicker plywood (> 1/16 inch), would suggest a coping saw or jeweler's saw...

HTH

Jim

CafeenMan

I use a hobby knife normally, but my second choice would be the keyhole saw blade that jimmbbo mentioned. However, Zona razor saws are a lot better than the X-Acto models, but neither would be a good choice for cutting hatches.

Here's how I do it:

Servo Hatches

zetor

My Feedback: (2)

That's a hell of a site you have there Cafeman. I've seen several of your posts but never knew of the link. I'll be sure to read through the other things as well. The thing is I need to cut a hatch through the bottom of an ultra stick 40. I could go through the top which is balsa but I figured it would be less noticeable from the bottom. It is ply and pretty thick. What I want to do is put a lighter engine mount on it. I've knocked the blind nuts out and need access to the firewall from behind to fill in the old holes with epoxy and to reinstall them. I will also be tail mounting rudder and elevator servos. Your information you provided will be a big help there. Thanks.

CafeenMan

zetor - If you plan to replace the hatch after cutting it out, you can drill a series of holes around the inside of where you would cut it. Make them as close together as possible and then connect them with a knife or the keyhole saw. A lot easier than trying to saw the plywood.

J_R

I assume from your post that the holes in the new mount do not line up with the old ones. I would patch the old holes from the outside. Personally, I would use a dowel and CA. A mix of epoxy and microballons will also work and not run down the inside.

Then drill the new holes. Get some cable like the stuff Sullivan uses for pushrods. Put it through the hole. Get a small 1/16 wheel collar. Put the blind nut on, then the wheel collar. Pull it up tight and the blind nuts should stick. Undo the wheel collar and pull the wire out. Use a bolt with a washer to pull the blind nut the rest of the way into place. Pull the bolt out and install the new mount.

No hatch is needed if you have access through the tank area.

JR

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

What J_R said. I've done it a couple times in a similar way, and it works fine.
Dennis-

Mike James

Heating the blade does wonders, too. (Do a test on scrap first, to get a feel) When done right, it's like cutting through butter... a lot smoother than a "cold" cut.