tips and tricks
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tips and tricks
well i just got a graupner 330 motor and i can't get enough lift from it, any tips do get off the ground,i already cut holes in the rotors. please help. i have the stock gears in it.
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RE: tips and tricks
i already cut holes in the rotors
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RE: tips and tricks
Jesus***** Ok il tell this for the last time, leave your heli alone if you dont a: are a skilled engineer og experienced modellbuilder b: dont want to spend the next month with trial and error pulling your hair out along the way c: potentially blow away lots of money and never get into the air. If your helis doesnt fly almost for sure its you doing something wrong, helis are sensitive delicat machines, micros even more so than the bigger. So unless you qualify for any of the above leave the bloddy thing alone, you wont be able to make it any better before you gain a good load of experience, the heli is perfectly flyable as is. Forget the engines, drilling stupid holes and all this crapp its written by morons in a feeble neverending pursuit of improvement, most of them dont even know how the heli is supposed to behave or potentially can behave. Biggest tip of the year,,,,,Leave it the **** alone and get on with the practice,, this is hard and there is no way around to make this a videogame experience. Sure there is alot of upgrades that can be done but they need to be done in a correct maner and sequence, changing a single component can upset the unity of your heli and make it unflyable until you upgrade other components to fit the first one. Eyh! take your fingers of that dremel cutter,, i see you in the back there!!!
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RE: tips and tricks
To those who never heard of drilling holes in main rotor blades and paddle:
This method is for advanced tweaking. This method was "test and proven" tweaks to make your chopper even more lighter. One thing u must do in drilling holes is that u have to cover your blades after that with scotch tape.
To skater_719
Can your chopper fly using original stock item first? If so.. can you tell us what is the spec for graupner 330 motor. I don't have the spec.
Super-Hornet
This method is for advanced tweaking. This method was "test and proven" tweaks to make your chopper even more lighter. One thing u must do in drilling holes is that u have to cover your blades after that with scotch tape.
To skater_719
Can your chopper fly using original stock item first? If so.. can you tell us what is the spec for graupner 330 motor. I don't have the spec.
Super-Hornet
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RE: tips and tricks
For the stock engine the 10 teeth pinion is just fine, no magic in stepping down unless you get an engine with higher ideal rpm operating area.
Superhornet: Swisscheasing your heli mgiht give that extra 4% of performance if done exactly right, but other drawbacks follow, the rotor actually needs some weight for stabile operation,, preferably weight would be added to the rotor assembly of these micros if there was enough power for it,, would give it more momentum and less sensitive to every breath in the room. Secondly drilling all these holes doesnt do any good for blades and other parts keeping their intended shape when exposed to the forces of fligh, they will flex and deform much more wich is something one really should try to prevent.
Superhornet: Swisscheasing your heli mgiht give that extra 4% of performance if done exactly right, but other drawbacks follow, the rotor actually needs some weight for stabile operation,, preferably weight would be added to the rotor assembly of these micros if there was enough power for it,, would give it more momentum and less sensitive to every breath in the room. Secondly drilling all these holes doesnt do any good for blades and other parts keeping their intended shape when exposed to the forces of fligh, they will flex and deform much more wich is something one really should try to prevent.
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RE: tips and tricks
r?ldakin
I'm the one who got this swisscheesing idea and found it useful.
Why is this good for heli performance? It takes away the dead weight from the right place. The micro FP helis are extremely unstable because of too high center of gravity. The head structure and the rotor blades are utterly oversized compared to the bigger birds or real helis. The rotor on a real heli never makes up more than 10% of total weight. The micro helis have more than 1/4 weight there. Reducing head weight to lower CG is way to go to improve performance. That's why we are seeing smaller blades, super light CF blades, flybarless head on high end birds. Being lighter, the momentum issue is easily solved by added weight to tip.
As for blade deforming, the plastics flex anyway. As long as you don't overdrill it won't make a difference. Yes you have to do it right. Moreover, a frame structure always keeps better shape than a solid piece, more so with plastics. Wings and blades we see in use in real world are made of a frame covered with skin. They are not only lighter but also more robust.
Otherwise, I'm as strong as you an advocate of flying stock. I have always flown stock and gained experience from there. My Aerohawk is all stock but was made superefficient after sisscheesing and 5-10% cut down. It can hover more than 12 min on one pack NiMh battery. I also agree that newbies should learn to fly before considering any modification including this one.
I'm the one who got this swisscheesing idea and found it useful.
Why is this good for heli performance? It takes away the dead weight from the right place. The micro FP helis are extremely unstable because of too high center of gravity. The head structure and the rotor blades are utterly oversized compared to the bigger birds or real helis. The rotor on a real heli never makes up more than 10% of total weight. The micro helis have more than 1/4 weight there. Reducing head weight to lower CG is way to go to improve performance. That's why we are seeing smaller blades, super light CF blades, flybarless head on high end birds. Being lighter, the momentum issue is easily solved by added weight to tip.
As for blade deforming, the plastics flex anyway. As long as you don't overdrill it won't make a difference. Yes you have to do it right. Moreover, a frame structure always keeps better shape than a solid piece, more so with plastics. Wings and blades we see in use in real world are made of a frame covered with skin. They are not only lighter but also more robust.
Otherwise, I'm as strong as you an advocate of flying stock. I have always flown stock and gained experience from there. My Aerohawk is all stock but was made superefficient after sisscheesing and 5-10% cut down. It can hover more than 12 min on one pack NiMh battery. I also agree that newbies should learn to fly before considering any modification including this one.
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RE: tips and tricks
Hi skater_719
I found the Graupner Speed 330 motor spec:
http://www.shop.graupner.de/webapp/c...r=1081&lang=en
Now according to the spec, it is 17000rpm and weight 53g. This is slower and weight heavier than GWS EM300 or EM350 (Mabuchi 370). I not sure whether is it strong enough to lift your chopper.
Does anyone have successfully using this motor in Micro Heli?
Super-Hornet
I found the Graupner Speed 330 motor spec:
http://www.shop.graupner.de/webapp/c...r=1081&lang=en
Now according to the spec, it is 17000rpm and weight 53g. This is slower and weight heavier than GWS EM300 or EM350 (Mabuchi 370). I not sure whether is it strong enough to lift your chopper.
Does anyone have successfully using this motor in Micro Heli?
Super-Hornet
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RE: tips and tricks
I think this is blown out of proportions and one really should compare the advantage to the chanse of the mod turning out good or absolutly crapp, as i said i found the lighening of the regular blades to have a minimal advange, the big advantage will be if they could be made really light and really strong with weight added in just the right spots. EP symetrical blades are out now. BUT my whole point about this is that newbies shouldnt get ideas like these into their head when starting out with these helis, issues like these are waaaaay down the line from where you are starting out with no epxerience. Im no big "fly stock" fan per say but I know what people starting out with these machines will think, rather than mastering the challenging flying of these bird they start to think it must be something wrong with this thing because i can make it fly. Then they start acting out in desperation and put their money in the pockets of say hellihobby who is laughing themself bendt in half of all the "crapp" they are able to stuff into the hands of newbies without a clue who thinks "this is gonna make it work". I have nothing invested in making people do either this or that but i recognize the situation and can keep my mouth,,,,eeh keyboard when people are being given crappy advice, and i apologize the "moron" remark was not aimed at any person in specific. Fly on!!