vasek

My Feedback: (4)

i have no choice (due to sensitivity to chemicals[]) but to use wood glue (aliphatic resin) for my next project

i am starting a new kit (all balsa), and am a little confused how to:

when using CA, the wing is pre-assembled (dry) then the glue is applied

when using wood glue, how do i procede?

is there a site out there dealing with isssues like this? or a forum or something...?

thanks in advance for any help,
Vasek

FHHuber

You smear some yellow glue on the joint surface and stick the aprts together. Wipe off the excess that squeezes out when you put the parts together.

You can apply a THIN coating of (full strength) glue to each part... let it sit for about an hour then brush more (thinned 50% with water) glue on and assemble. The parts will almost bond like using contact cement (but can be repositioned easier.)

Whichever method... you have to clamp the assembled parts tgether with a bit of pressure on the joint to get the best joint possible. They should be allowed to dry for a minimum of 4 hours before clamps (or pins) are removed.

Allow yellow glue to cure 2 days before flying the airplane.

CafeenMan

I use Carpenter's glue for construction. I have a page on my site that explains adhesives and gluing techniques.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform.../adhesives.htm

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

thanks for the info guys, so far so good... i guess the only inconvenience is to have to assemble the (plane)structure twice...[] but i don't have any rash on my body

FHHuber

I fit it 3 or 4 times.... whether I use CA or yellow glue or any other glue. Then I know the parts fit right before I glue anything. (and I still get a typical .40 size kit done in under a week... using yellow glue...)

CafeenMan

Ditto to what FH said.

volkan

use your fingers!![:'(]

ballgunner

My Feedback: (1)

The only fault I find with aliphatic resin is that you do have to wait a bit while it dries. I've started laminating curved outlines with 1/16 balsa by soaking, pinning in place and letting it dry overnight per the system used on the GP Old Timer. After the overnight drying the wood retains most of its shape and is easy to laminate for as many layers of wood as you want. CA the first layer onto the framework and wood glue the remainder, or if you wood glue the first layer wait until it dries and then proceed to laminate the other layers of wood. You can make some very nice looking curves or even compound curves and the wood glue sands much easier than CA. As to regular structure such as wings and fuselages etc. Just be sure you have a precise fit in the beginning. After the glue dries the wood will break before you can destroy the joint.

hookedonrc

I am a little alergic to the CA glue, but have been able to use it for wing building. I find that I use the wood glue for my fuse doublers, in spots where I need the extra time to ensure that both parts are in alignment. I have had a few times where the CA set before I got everthing in place. (Not a good thing.)

smokingcrater

I've just finished a plane that used absolutely no CA. mostly wood glue and epoxy in some areas. it was actually a joy to build! The speed really isn't much of an issue, work on multiple parts in a session if you need to. From my own informal tests, wood glue seems to outperform medium and thick CA for strength. (based on my own completely unscientific tests of gluing pieces of balsa 1/4 stock together and ripping it apart in various ways, medium and thick CA doesn't penetrate very well, and although thin was better then woodglue in some cases, it can also make wood brittle and subject to vibrations. in all cases the joint was stronger then the surrounding wood, so it was a matter of how well it penetrated the wood)

Jimmbbo

I like aliphatic resin because it allows adjustment before drying, and seems to penetrate the wood better - have never had a glue joint fail... wood failures, yes, glue joints.. no.

To allow me to glue up one assembly then move on to another while the first one dries, I made three building boards from Home Depot 12" x 5/8 inch luan covered particle board shelving, with 1/4 inch fine grained cork contact cemented to one side... Boards are 6 ft, 2 ft and 1 ft long for wings/fus, stabs, rudder/elevators, and have remained flat for over 15 years (kept indoors)...

Cheers!

Jim

CafeenMan

"waiting for it to dry" is a good thing:

* You have time to align the parts and make sure they're right.
* You have time to clean up the excess glue so your plane isn't covered with glue blotches.
* You have time to use clamps (after aligning) to make a very tight glue joint that is stronger and uses less glue.
* You have time to take it back apart and clean the glue off if something goes wrong.

Model building is a case where it takes less time if you take your time and you'll have a better model because of it.

Jim Finn

My Feedback: (2)

I use yellow carpenters glue in syringes I get at the tractor supply store. The kind used for animals injections. Lots of sizes and cheap. I have different sizes and store them on my bench standing up in a cup of water. Keeps the end from sealing over. For filler I have mixed baking powder with "Deft" , a laquer. Sands easily after it dries.

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

I tried tonight mixing microballoons with wood glue and it makes an awesome sandable filler. Alot more durable than model magic and softer than mixing them with epoxy. Epoxy and microballoons can get pretty darn hard when used on Balsa. Hard to try and not damage the balsa while sanding. I think I found my new easy to use harder filler. Model magic for dings, wood glue and microballoons for fillets and larger gaps.

Jimmbbo

Good news!! Thanks for posting the results of your test!

Cheers!

Jim

O2man

My Feedback: (5)

Does this mix of microballoons and wood glue get thick the way it can with epoxy? By this I mean can you get a paste that stays without sagging? Sounds like an excellent alternative for those of us who get fussy about the finish on our work. Nothing worse than getting everything right and then having to fix sanding errors on a fillet's edges when using epoxy.