FormerMember

Now that more people have this engine, are there some known good configurations of header lengths and can type and size that work very well?

I am interested in the engine, but want to put on cans.

Who sells ready-made headers to bolt on?

Thanks
Craig

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Do a quick search, Kris^ did an excellent wright-up. He's had these engines from the beginning and knows all there ins' and outs'.

Kris^

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The BEST setup, so far, for this engine, using stock off-the-shelf parts from any source out there, is to make a set of headers using the 25mm KS Stainless steel elbows, and the proprietary KS "stub" flanges that match the BME110's ports. Then take the LL Pefa canisters sold by Aircraft International, cut off 3/4" from the inlet tube and 1-2" off the outlet stinger, and put it together. Due to the longer duration of the BME's exhaust event (170 degrees) the mufflers will "bark" a little bit, but the power will increase about 150-200 rpm.

I'm currently turning in excess of 7000 rpm with the Mejzlik 28-10, 6400+ with the Mejzlik 29-10, and the same rpm for the Menz/Biela/BME 28-10 wider bladed props. The Biela 29-10 turns right at 6000-6100 rpm, and is a super quiet "IMAC" type prop that easily passed dB restrictions and is super quiet in the air. The BME110, with this exhaust, WILL Rip ANY of the props listed if you do not practice throttle management, even the very large 29-10 Biela.

One note, when installing tuned-style exhaust on ANY engine, go to the highest grade of gasoline available, 93 or better if possible, to prevent detonation. Failure to do so can result in damaged pistons, bearings, or crankcases in extreme cases. Also, use 50:1 break-in oil or any good quality mineral oil, for about 10 gallons, then switch to an appropriate synthetic oil for further flying. I strongly recommend the Amsoil 100:1 synthetic mixed at an 80:1 ratio for optimum life, cooling and power. Also, jet the engine just a little rich, by about 1/8 turn, to help prevent incipient lean runs in questionable weather or hot days.

Hope this helps.

FormerMember

Thanks Kris, very good stuff. Sounds like some work is required to get a header put together, nothing yet ready-to-use out of the box yet.

On the octane rating, what if using canister mufflers, is a high octane preferred there as well?

Thanks again
Craig

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Wood- The cannister set-up "kinda" acts like a super charger through pulse waves. You will get a denser fuel charge into the combustions chamber, denser charge higher compression pre ignition with low octane. If the needles are set to low you will have a lean condition, carb not being able to supply enough gas for proper fuel air mixture. Somebody else can x-plain it better I am sure.

blkbird68

My Feedback: (19)

Email Klaus Krumscheid, He will fix you up with a complete pre-made header. http://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/

Kris^

My Feedback: (1)

And that's where I get my header pieces, except for going through DA for the 90-degree elbows and piping if I am making a custom-fit setup for a specific airframe.

BTW. . I am working on a 2-1 TUNED single canister muffler for the 110. It may bear fruit, it may not, but 2-into-1 setups I've used before, without the muffler section to reduce noise, gained 300-600 rpm WITHOUT tuning, so once I get the resonance figured out and a couple of prototypes built and tested to prove the design, it ought to be marketable. I'll be trying to shoehorn it into the 33% Composite-Arf airframe, and that will give a good indication of where to go with the design.