fun4me2fly

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone used rustoleum paint with success. I want to paint on white Ultracoat. This will be the red trim on a GeeBee. I like the way rustoleum flow out to a good gloss. I have some on one plane(cowling only) that I didn't fly for a couple months.It appears that paint hardined good with time and does not soften from 10% fuel.
Or what can I top coat it with to fuel froof.

Brian C

My experience is that you can use any of the non-metallic colors of rustoleum in spray cans or in the regular paint cans. I scuff the surface of the covering with a scotchbrite pad until it dulls to give the paint something to adhere to. I then spray with a rattle can or thin the can paint with laquer thinner before spraying it though my airbrush. Can be masked and sprayed over with another color in 24 hours using blue low-tack painters masking tape. My tests show that it is fuel proof to the 15% nitro Red Max fuel our club uses. Much cheaper and less toxic than Lustrecote spray.

Brian

fun4me2fly

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Brian, I did a test on some MonoKote that was not attached to a model. I spray can painted it with rustoleum red.Let it set for about two weeks. Then I poor 15% fuel on it let it set for a couple hours and wipe it. I have done this five times in the past few weeks. It still looks good. Paint does not come off on the rag.
Don

voyager_663rd

I use rustoleum and krylon with 100% success (on spads). Always a good paint job. Just takes forever to dry (as you found out).

Den B

Rustoleum GOOD

RandyL

My Feedback: (4)

I use Rustoleum, and as stated, takes a few days to dry and a few weeks to cure out. I've had no success at all with any Krylon products. What I have used immediately wipes off with glow fuel. If it is usable, I would like to learn the types tested, all mine failed without being sealed with fuelproof clear coats.

edit... None of the rustoleum Metalics or Clears appear to be fuel proof..

RCPAUL

My Feedback: (1)

Rustoleum makes many types of paint but only those that say Fights Rust are fuel proof. Their clear is not fuel proof.

Krylon does make a polyurethan that is fuel proof but I've never seen it in a spray can. Other than this, I think most of the other krylon products are not fuel proof.

Paul

narpets

I've used Rustoleum to fuelproof my firewalls with no problems even after years. Have sparyed on Moneycote, adn Utracote with great results.
BUT do NOT use store brand imitations. I sprayed my 99" old timer with white. The plane is electric so I wasn't worried about it being fuel proof. Went to spray black trim using the same brand. The base white repelled the black. Looks fine from 10 foot away, but any closer and it looks like a 6 year old did it.
SO stay away from the store brand imitations.

Rodney

Do let the Rustoleum cure for at least three days, preferably at least a week, befor exposing to fuels with nitro in them.

fun4me2fly

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the responses. I'm feeling good about going ahead with the trim on the GeeBee.
Don

RandyL

My Feedback: (4)

This was painted with Rustoleum rattle can using red and white. It has several years of use and only one stain on the red. I flew it the first week and did not clean it quick enough..been perfect ever since. A long cure is a good cure!

fun4me2fly

My Feedback: (2)

Randy L thanks for the comeback.I'll remember to let paint cure long.
Flying stop sign is a great idea.Looks good.
Don

Patriot

Another quick tip about Rustoleum. if it says apply second coat within an hour or wait til after 48 hours, then heed the warning. I forgot once, and applied it 6 hours after my first coat, and it left a weird blemish in the paint. If you want to apply a second coat, do it right away before it starts to really set, basically within the first 30 minutes. Or, let it sit for a couple days to fully dry, then apply the second coat, it works fine, but not before.

Patriot

fun4me2fly

My Feedback: (2)

Patriot,thanks for reminding me on the time between coats.I seldom us a product without reading directions.I srayed three coats of Rustoleum red on the fusalage yesterday in 20 minutes. It is looking great.
Thanks to all for your input.
fun4me2fly full size and rc

RandyL

My Feedback: (4)

Great! Now to stay busy and keep your fingers out of it for a couple of days.. That is the hard part for me.

IMaflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Do you folks know of a common store-bought rattle-can spray paint in CLEAR that is fuelproof?

Patriot

I don't know of any clear coats in a spray can that is truly fuel proof. All I can say now I know of only two prducts that will truly give you a fuel proof clear coat, and both are two-partt which require a spray gun.

1. Two-part automotive clear coat.

2. Two-part epoxy clear coat like Klass Kote.

The Automotive clear is probably the best because it is truly clear like water.
The epoxy clear coats tend to leave a little yellowish hue, especially noticable over white paint.

If you use Automotive clear coat, just make sure you get the flex additive for it. The regular mix will crack and flake off from the flexible surfaces over time.

Patriot

Phlip

Thanks to you guys on this thread, I went ahead and used Rustoleum to paint on white Ultracote on my RV-4. It looks great and his holding up very well. All in all, I'm quite happy

But ... one word of caution. The white Rustoleum I used to paint the cowl and landing gear is picking up a pink tint from my Omega 10% fuel. The paint is not softening or loosing its gloss, it's just turning slightly pink where the exhaust hits it.

Again, its not a big deal, but next time I'll be careful about where I use white Rustoleum.

Phil

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

2 coats of waterbase polyurethane is fuel RESISTANT to 10% (maybe more) nitro. Let thr poly cure for 7 - 10 days before exposing to nitro. The waterbase poly will not yellow with age.

By resistant I mean the following:

I sprayed a test panel with paint, let it cure, then gave it 2 coats of waterbase poly. I let it cure for about 5 days (got impatient ), then poured 10% nitro fuel on it and let it sit for 24 hours. When I wiped it off, there was a SLIGHT dragging from the poly, however the paint was fine. I felt that since I wipe my planes down at the end of a flying session there would be no problem. The planes I have clearcoated with waterbase poly are fine after almost 18 months. FWIW - I have used satin, semi gloss and gloss with no difference in results and the poly (after curing longer ) no longer causes any dragging.

flipstart

I have used Min-wax Polyurethane (NOT THE WATER BASED TYPE) in the spray or brushed on and found it to be fuel proof up to 15% nitro-it is available in gloss, semi-gloss, Satin. My field box and field stand is clear coated over krylon and nary a problem in 3 years. The field stand gets a full dose about every flying session-best testimonial I have seen. Flipstart