Lanier 40% Edge build thread
06-07-2004, 05:23 PM
#1
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Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Well I couldn't resist Lanier's Memorial Day sale of their 40% Edge. I ordered my Edge online, and called Lanier to confirm. Exactly one week later, two large boxes were on my doorstep and I was the proud new owner of this kit. Prior to this aircraft, the largest planes I have built from a kit were the Midwest Extra 80", and a Northwest Hobby Tech Gee Bee Y 90". I am excited about this build, and am eager to put this plane in the air against some much more expensive birds.
Here are the reasons why the Lanier Edge appealed to me:
1) Price. For $550 and free shipping, I don't think you can find a less expensive 40% kit out there. Granted, there is no hardware included in the kit and I will have to cover it, but the finished airframe cost will be well under $1000. While $550 was Lanier's sale price, they have sales quite often so if you are interested in purchasing this kit, just wait until it goes on sale again. Additionally, with new, stronger servos available on the market, the radio expenses drop considerably and we should end up with a 40% aircraft that costs the same as many 35% aircraft available today, while still setup with quality components.
2) Performance. There don't appear to be many Lanier Edges in the air, but the pilot reports I have heard so far have been very positive. I am convinced that if I build this kit straight and true, it will be a very enjoyable aircraft to fly. In addition, I am hoping this plane will fly at a more relaxed pace than my Composite-ARF Extra 2.6M. I am flying in the Advanced class in IMAC, and my Extra is too quick to be relaxed while flying the sequence and especially the unknowns. When this aircraft is completed, I want to be able to show that you don't need a $2000 airframe to fly well in IMAC or perform wild, crowd-pleasing 3D maneuvers.
3) Construction. I want a plane that, even under harsh conditions, will easily last over a thousand flights. I want to do harrier landings, tail touches, etc, and those things will quickly eat away at my Composite-ARF's useful life. In addition, if the plane incurrs any damage, it should be easier and cheaper to fix than composite. A friend of mine had a Giant Stinger that had well over a thousand flights before he sold it, and looking at the construction of this plane I can tell it is built to last.
A note about this thread: I was considering puttting this thread in the Product Reviews section, but that section is for one person to do the writing and reviewing. I want this thread to include discusssions about building techniques, setup tips, etc, and I want as much participation as possible, so I am placing it in the Giant Aircraft forum. Hopefully there will be many good ideas shared in this thread. I will include as many pics of the build as I can, although my pics will be taken with my video camera so they aren't going to be perfect. Oh, and please no sarcastic remarks about my building area either
. Having said that, let's get started!
The kit arrives in two large boxes. There is a main box with the cowl, canopy, gear, wood, and tail surfaces, and the second box has the wings. The UPS label indicated that the total weight was 37 pounds for both boxes, and it felt like at least half of that was in packing material. All parts were well packaged, with lots of paper protecting the components. It took a lot of digging just to get to the cowl and canopy, but when I foudn them I was happy with what I saw. I won't know how many pinholes the cowl has until I prime it, but it does feel very smooth. I was also happy to see that the cowl includes a cowl ring. The wood components are a combination of router cut and laser cut. The laser cut parts look very nice, while the router cut parts are going to need a little sanding to smooth out the rough edges. The manual is located at the bottom of the main box, and I spent about half an hour going over it to get an idea of the construction.
I have laid out the wood formers and fuse slabs on my board and will be joining the fuse slabs first. Unfortunately I have to run out for a quick flight, so hopefully I will get a few pics up later tonight on joining the fuse slabs.
Total time on project: 45 minutes
Total expense: $550
Here are the reasons why the Lanier Edge appealed to me:
1) Price. For $550 and free shipping, I don't think you can find a less expensive 40% kit out there. Granted, there is no hardware included in the kit and I will have to cover it, but the finished airframe cost will be well under $1000. While $550 was Lanier's sale price, they have sales quite often so if you are interested in purchasing this kit, just wait until it goes on sale again. Additionally, with new, stronger servos available on the market, the radio expenses drop considerably and we should end up with a 40% aircraft that costs the same as many 35% aircraft available today, while still setup with quality components.
2) Performance. There don't appear to be many Lanier Edges in the air, but the pilot reports I have heard so far have been very positive. I am convinced that if I build this kit straight and true, it will be a very enjoyable aircraft to fly. In addition, I am hoping this plane will fly at a more relaxed pace than my Composite-ARF Extra 2.6M. I am flying in the Advanced class in IMAC, and my Extra is too quick to be relaxed while flying the sequence and especially the unknowns. When this aircraft is completed, I want to be able to show that you don't need a $2000 airframe to fly well in IMAC or perform wild, crowd-pleasing 3D maneuvers.
3) Construction. I want a plane that, even under harsh conditions, will easily last over a thousand flights. I want to do harrier landings, tail touches, etc, and those things will quickly eat away at my Composite-ARF's useful life. In addition, if the plane incurrs any damage, it should be easier and cheaper to fix than composite. A friend of mine had a Giant Stinger that had well over a thousand flights before he sold it, and looking at the construction of this plane I can tell it is built to last.
A note about this thread: I was considering puttting this thread in the Product Reviews section, but that section is for one person to do the writing and reviewing. I want this thread to include discusssions about building techniques, setup tips, etc, and I want as much participation as possible, so I am placing it in the Giant Aircraft forum. Hopefully there will be many good ideas shared in this thread. I will include as many pics of the build as I can, although my pics will be taken with my video camera so they aren't going to be perfect. Oh, and please no sarcastic remarks about my building area either
. Having said that, let's get started!The kit arrives in two large boxes. There is a main box with the cowl, canopy, gear, wood, and tail surfaces, and the second box has the wings. The UPS label indicated that the total weight was 37 pounds for both boxes, and it felt like at least half of that was in packing material. All parts were well packaged, with lots of paper protecting the components. It took a lot of digging just to get to the cowl and canopy, but when I foudn them I was happy with what I saw. I won't know how many pinholes the cowl has until I prime it, but it does feel very smooth. I was also happy to see that the cowl includes a cowl ring. The wood components are a combination of router cut and laser cut. The laser cut parts look very nice, while the router cut parts are going to need a little sanding to smooth out the rough edges. The manual is located at the bottom of the main box, and I spent about half an hour going over it to get an idea of the construction.
I have laid out the wood formers and fuse slabs on my board and will be joining the fuse slabs first. Unfortunately I have to run out for a quick flight, so hopefully I will get a few pics up later tonight on joining the fuse slabs.
Total time on project: 45 minutes
Total expense: $550
06-08-2004, 01:38 AM
#3
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Just spent a couple hours starting construction on the Edge. The engine box is built first out of router-cut ply formers. This assembly is heavy, but it is very strong! Since this assembly ties the engine, wing tube, and landing gear together, I'll take a little weight to ensure adequate strength. In addition to the four ply formers that make up the engine box assembly, the aluminum landing gear braces are installed at this time. After roughing up the braces with coarse sandpaper, I drilled three holes in each one for bolts that will secure them to the ply formers. After transferring the holes to the plywood, I used 5 minute epoxy to join the braces to each side, and 6-32 bolts with lock washers, nuts, and red locktite to secure them in position. After the landing gear braces are secured, the four formers are slid together but are not glued at this time.
The next assembly I started on was joining the fuse slabs together. I got the bottom parts laid together before calling it a night, and I'm sure the sides will go together just as well. I took a picture to show the finger joint cut into the sides. It was a tight fit, but I was able to push the parts together without resorting to a mallet. There should be no problem with strength with such a well thought-out design. Unfortunately I was out of CA so I called it a night, but I was pleased with the progress so far.
A word on the router-cut parts: they will take some sanding on the edges and filing on the corners of the tabs, but the wood is very good quality and if you spend a little time with some sandpaper, the parts look and fit great.
Photo 1 is a layout of some of the ply parts that came from the main box. As you can see, some are laser-cut and some are router-cut.
Photo 2 is the completed engine box. A little heavy but very strong.
Photo 3 is a closeup of the engine box, with the landing gear braces shown.
Photo 4 shows the finger joint to join the fuse bottom.
Total time on project: 2 hrs 30 mins
The next assembly I started on was joining the fuse slabs together. I got the bottom parts laid together before calling it a night, and I'm sure the sides will go together just as well. I took a picture to show the finger joint cut into the sides. It was a tight fit, but I was able to push the parts together without resorting to a mallet. There should be no problem with strength with such a well thought-out design. Unfortunately I was out of CA so I called it a night, but I was pleased with the progress so far.
A word on the router-cut parts: they will take some sanding on the edges and filing on the corners of the tabs, but the wood is very good quality and if you spend a little time with some sandpaper, the parts look and fit great.
Photo 1 is a layout of some of the ply parts that came from the main box. As you can see, some are laser-cut and some are router-cut.
Photo 2 is the completed engine box. A little heavy but very strong.
Photo 3 is a closeup of the engine box, with the landing gear braces shown.
Photo 4 shows the finger joint to join the fuse bottom.
Total time on project: 2 hrs 30 mins
06-08-2004, 03:44 AM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
I apologies if I'm wrong how this kit is set up, I'm just going by what you said above. But if you look at some of the newer kits out there from other manufactures, you'll see that they do not attach the engine mount to the wing tube anymore. I've talked to some of the manufactures and they say the combo of engine vibration and motorbox/wing mount puts a lot of unnessasay stress on the airframe which was causing problems.
Just something to think about.
(BTW, I love my dremal and hole saw, especially after building a couple Lanier kits, I have been able to build some really light, really strong planes even though they look like swiss cheese when I'm done. I built the 33% Extra at 19lbs, but I threw all of the wood away and used contest balsa and composites)
Just something to think about.
(BTW, I love my dremal and hole saw, especially after building a couple Lanier kits, I have been able to build some really light, really strong planes even though they look like swiss cheese when I'm done. I built the 33% Extra at 19lbs, but I threw all of the wood away and used contest balsa and composites)
06-08-2004, 06:50 AM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Great job the write up so far.
I've put one of these together for a friend. It's already been crashed, engine flame out close to the ground. The airplane took the hit well. It broke off the engine box completely off and squashed the gear. No other damage was done. Wings or Wing tube area was untouched. His has 3w150 TOC and is out of site unlimited. I'd have one of these myself but too big to transport and for what you lack in cost of the airframe you make up in everything else. heh heh. His is flying again now and breaking in a rebuilt engine.
I think the Lanier Edge is a best kept secret, EASY to put together and light. I can't think of how I would change anything from the original design. Harrier Landings might be a problem, I would think the design would tolerate that kind of abuse repeatedly.
Here is the post to the one I'm talking about. He only used 2 servos on each aileron too. 8411's and they work great.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_17...tm.htm#1737770
Keep the pics coming....
I've put one of these together for a friend. It's already been crashed, engine flame out close to the ground. The airplane took the hit well. It broke off the engine box completely off and squashed the gear. No other damage was done. Wings or Wing tube area was untouched. His has 3w150 TOC and is out of site unlimited. I'd have one of these myself but too big to transport and for what you lack in cost of the airframe you make up in everything else. heh heh. His is flying again now and breaking in a rebuilt engine.
I think the Lanier Edge is a best kept secret, EASY to put together and light. I can't think of how I would change anything from the original design. Harrier Landings might be a problem, I would think the design would tolerate that kind of abuse repeatedly.
Here is the post to the one I'm talking about. He only used 2 servos on each aileron too. 8411's and they work great.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_17...tm.htm#1737770
Keep the pics coming....
06-08-2004, 07:16 AM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Ryan,
Thanks for taking the initiative to start this thread. I have one of the kits too, but I won't be able to start building it till after Christmas ( a gift from my wife). I already have the engine and some of the required parts and hardware. I look forward to your thread as I am new to large scale and certainly need all the help I can get. I am currently flying a Comp-Arf 2.6 Extra and love it. One of the members in my club is building his second Lanier Edge 40% kit. He lost the first one to a mid air. He liked the plane so much that he is building the second. I did not see the plane fly but he recommended the plane as my next project. I cant wait to get started on mine but I have to be patient for now. I did down load a copy of the manual for reference. Good luck with the thread. I will be waiting anxiously for your next post.
Thanks again.
Jose
Thanks for taking the initiative to start this thread. I have one of the kits too, but I won't be able to start building it till after Christmas ( a gift from my wife). I already have the engine and some of the required parts and hardware. I look forward to your thread as I am new to large scale and certainly need all the help I can get. I am currently flying a Comp-Arf 2.6 Extra and love it. One of the members in my club is building his second Lanier Edge 40% kit. He lost the first one to a mid air. He liked the plane so much that he is building the second. I did not see the plane fly but he recommended the plane as my next project. I cant wait to get started on mine but I have to be patient for now. I did down load a copy of the manual for reference. Good luck with the thread. I will be waiting anxiously for your next post.
Thanks again.
Jose
06-08-2004, 12:48 PM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Thanks for the feedback, I'll try to keep up with this thread as best as I can along with the build. Wagas's thread on the plane he built was one of the reasons I decided to purchase this kit. Did anyone else notice the pics of the plane that Wagas built in the latest issue (August) of Fly RC on page 18 and 19? Very inspiring!
Darrin, I looked into what you said, but I saw something interesting in the manual. The two engine box side pieces have much smaller lightening holes cut in them than what the manual shows. I have a feeling they might have cut too much off and were experiencing some failures, so they reduced the lightening hole size. I will be looking at some simple ways to save weight on this plane, but I think I'm going to leave the engine box alone at this time.
Darrin, I looked into what you said, but I saw something interesting in the manual. The two engine box side pieces have much smaller lightening holes cut in them than what the manual shows. I have a feeling they might have cut too much off and were experiencing some failures, so they reduced the lightening hole size. I will be looking at some simple ways to save weight on this plane, but I think I'm going to leave the engine box alone at this time.
06-08-2004, 06:49 PM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Spent a little more time on the Edge today. The fuse top and side slabs were joined, wood stringers were run down the fuse top, and some of the fuse formers were installed. Joining the fuse slabs was simple, but took some time. The sides and bottom needed some sanding and filing to create a smooth appearance, and the tabs needed quick filing to square off the tabs. This was not a problem with the laser cut formers, which took just a quick swipe with sandpaper to smooth out the edges.
The instructions call for installing 1/4" square hardwood sticks on the sides of the fuselage top. To save weight, I decided to replace these with balsa. Even though the balsa is softer than hardwood, the stringers added quite a bit of strength to the fuse top. Once the sides are installed, the assembly should be just as strong as if I had used the hardwood stringers, only lighter. I will be using balsa stringers on the fuse sides as well when that step comes.
After the stringers are installed, the fuse top is laid out on the workbench and the formers are installed. The first piece to go in is the engine box. As I was setting it in place, I noticed that the aluminum angles were facing the wrong way. Fortunately, the sides of the engine box are identical so all I had to do was slide them out and swap places. To fit the engine box in place, I had to remove a couple small sections of the fuse top stringers. This was not difficult and only took a minute, but it was not mentioned in the manual. After I tack glued the engine box in place, a couple more formers were installed and tack glued before calling it a day.
Photo 1 shows the engine box in place, with a small section of the fuse stringer removed.
Photo 2 shows the fuselage in its current state.
Next will be to install the rest of the formers, then attach the fuse sides. I have to head out to work tonight and have an IMAC event this weekend, so I probably won't continue the project until next week. I purchased some CA and some balsa today, which added a little to the project total.
Total time on project: 5 hours
Total expense: $570
The instructions call for installing 1/4" square hardwood sticks on the sides of the fuselage top. To save weight, I decided to replace these with balsa. Even though the balsa is softer than hardwood, the stringers added quite a bit of strength to the fuse top. Once the sides are installed, the assembly should be just as strong as if I had used the hardwood stringers, only lighter. I will be using balsa stringers on the fuse sides as well when that step comes.
After the stringers are installed, the fuse top is laid out on the workbench and the formers are installed. The first piece to go in is the engine box. As I was setting it in place, I noticed that the aluminum angles were facing the wrong way. Fortunately, the sides of the engine box are identical so all I had to do was slide them out and swap places. To fit the engine box in place, I had to remove a couple small sections of the fuse top stringers. This was not difficult and only took a minute, but it was not mentioned in the manual. After I tack glued the engine box in place, a couple more formers were installed and tack glued before calling it a day.
Photo 1 shows the engine box in place, with a small section of the fuse stringer removed.
Photo 2 shows the fuselage in its current state.
Next will be to install the rest of the formers, then attach the fuse sides. I have to head out to work tonight and have an IMAC event this weekend, so I probably won't continue the project until next week. I purchased some CA and some balsa today, which added a little to the project total.
Total time on project: 5 hours
Total expense: $570
06-09-2004, 11:01 PM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Ryan, congrats on your new plane... This post is going to be very informative and I will follow it.. I am sure this will be a fantastic flying plane!
06-10-2004, 05:56 AM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Flyfalcons: How are you going to control your rudder. Servos in the tail or pull pull?
You would think this thing would come out tail heavy with 8 servo's in the tail but even using 2 6v battery packs sitting behind the wing tube in the one I did it still balanced alright.
You would think this thing would come out tail heavy with 8 servo's in the tail but even using 2 6v battery packs sitting behind the wing tube in the one I did it still balanced alright.
06-13-2004, 11:16 PM
#11
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Wagas, I have not yet determined how to set up the rudder servos, but I want to eliminate servo ganging as much as possible. I may use three 8611s on a floating bellcrank pull-pull, but nothing is finalized yet. I just got back from an IMAC contest but am hoping to get a little more work done on the Edge in the next couple days.
06-15-2004, 12:44 AM
#12
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
The Edge is slowly starting to take shape. Today I finished installing the fuselage formers, joined the sides, and installed the landing gear and tailwheel blocks.
Joining the fuse sides takes a lot of trial fitting, trimming, and patience. A couple of the formers did not fit the 1/4" balsa sticks and had to be trimmed. However, all of the major alignment tabs fit well. This is also the time to install the wing tube phenolic in the fuselage. It passes through each fuse side and the engine box. Some work with a Dremel tool is required to achieve a good fit. I used the Dremel on the engine box, not on the fuse sides. The instructions call for installing the wing tube doublers before joining the fuse sides, but I saved this step for after installing the phenolic. The reason is that because the phenolic goes into the fuse at an angle, I wanted to make sure the doublers were installed with that slight angle.
Once I had the fuse sides fitting well, I wrapped tape around the joints to hold them in place. Starting from the back, I first tack-glued the fuse sides with medium CA, then went over the whole fuselage with Elmers Probond wood glue. This process took time, as there was a lot to glue, and as each section was glued I installed clamps to hold the joints tight. Overall it took about three hours to get the fusealge glued. It would have been quicker just using medium CA but the joints created by Probond are incredibly strong. Probond also sets quickly for a wood glue, about 15 to 20 minutes, so at the end of the work session I was able to handle the fuselage with nothing coming loose. It is important to take your time on this step to ensure a strong, straight fuselage.
The landing gear and tailwheel blocks were installed next. No major problems here, although the tab for the tailwheel block was oversized by about 3/8" and had to be trimmed down. Lots of epoxy and clamps were used on the landing gear block to ensure a strong bond.
After the fuselage was together I took it outside and set it on its gear for a size shot. It definitely qualifies as Giant Scale! I brought my Midwest Extra out for a size comparison, and the Edge just towers over it. Prop clearance definitely won't be a problem here! Overall I got five hours of work done today, and spent five dollars on a bottle of Probond.
Photo 1 shows the fuselage as the sides are being joined.
Photo 2 shows a closeup of the engine box assembly, with the phenolic and doublers installed.
Photo 3 shows a total of six heavy duty clamps holding the landing gear block securely as the epoxy is setting.
Photo 4 shows the tailwheel block and the tab, which had to be trimmed to fit between the fuse sides.
Total time on project: 10 hours
Total investment: $575*
*I ordered a spinner today, but am not sure about its exact cost so I will include that when it (and the invoice) arrives later this week.
Joining the fuse sides takes a lot of trial fitting, trimming, and patience. A couple of the formers did not fit the 1/4" balsa sticks and had to be trimmed. However, all of the major alignment tabs fit well. This is also the time to install the wing tube phenolic in the fuselage. It passes through each fuse side and the engine box. Some work with a Dremel tool is required to achieve a good fit. I used the Dremel on the engine box, not on the fuse sides. The instructions call for installing the wing tube doublers before joining the fuse sides, but I saved this step for after installing the phenolic. The reason is that because the phenolic goes into the fuse at an angle, I wanted to make sure the doublers were installed with that slight angle.
Once I had the fuse sides fitting well, I wrapped tape around the joints to hold them in place. Starting from the back, I first tack-glued the fuse sides with medium CA, then went over the whole fuselage with Elmers Probond wood glue. This process took time, as there was a lot to glue, and as each section was glued I installed clamps to hold the joints tight. Overall it took about three hours to get the fusealge glued. It would have been quicker just using medium CA but the joints created by Probond are incredibly strong. Probond also sets quickly for a wood glue, about 15 to 20 minutes, so at the end of the work session I was able to handle the fuselage with nothing coming loose. It is important to take your time on this step to ensure a strong, straight fuselage.
The landing gear and tailwheel blocks were installed next. No major problems here, although the tab for the tailwheel block was oversized by about 3/8" and had to be trimmed down. Lots of epoxy and clamps were used on the landing gear block to ensure a strong bond.
After the fuselage was together I took it outside and set it on its gear for a size shot. It definitely qualifies as Giant Scale! I brought my Midwest Extra out for a size comparison, and the Edge just towers over it. Prop clearance definitely won't be a problem here! Overall I got five hours of work done today, and spent five dollars on a bottle of Probond.
Photo 1 shows the fuselage as the sides are being joined.
Photo 2 shows a closeup of the engine box assembly, with the phenolic and doublers installed.
Photo 3 shows a total of six heavy duty clamps holding the landing gear block securely as the epoxy is setting.
Photo 4 shows the tailwheel block and the tab, which had to be trimmed to fit between the fuse sides.
Total time on project: 10 hours
Total investment: $575*
*I ordered a spinner today, but am not sure about its exact cost so I will include that when it (and the invoice) arrives later this week.
06-15-2004, 12:56 AM
#13
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Posing time! The size comparison clearly shows the Edge towering over the Midwest Extra, and the wheels aren't even on yet! This plane is going to have quite a presence in the air. It's already attracting attention - Sasha, a full size Collie, came by to check out the action during picture time.
06-20-2004, 02:20 AM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
After the fuselage box is completed, the belly stringers go in to give the bottom some shape. The two outer stringers are supposed to be hard wood, but I used balsa on all stringers. Using balsa will save weight, but care will have to be taken when lifting the fuselage. I did this with my Midwest Extra and haven't had any problems. The included 1/4" sticks aren't long enough for the fuselage, so they must be spliced. On the half-stringer on each side, I rounded the end and installed a 1/4" balsa guesset to increase the strength of the joint. All of the stringers fit into grooves in the fuse formers except for the end of the half-stringers, and they needed just a little extra gluing area. Other than that, installing the belly stringers is a no-brainer. The fuse bottom won't end up as smooth as a Carden, but full scale Edges have belly stringers just like the Lanier.
Photo 1 shows the completed fuse belly with stringers installed.
Photo 2 is a close up shot of the half-stringer end, with guesset installed and the end rounded.
Photo 1 shows the completed fuse belly with stringers installed.
Photo 2 is a close up shot of the half-stringer end, with guesset installed and the end rounded.
06-20-2004, 02:27 AM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
The turtledeck is made from ply formers and balsa stringers and is sheeted with balsa. The ply formers are overbuilt for the job and are a little heavy, so I went to work with a hole cutter and some drill bits to take some of the weight out. I might have only saved a few ounces by doing so, but every little bit helps. I didn't cut holes in the second former back because I wanted the most strength in case I need to flip the fuse onto the turtledeck. The front former that reclines and will rest against the canopy frame was solid ply, and I cut quite a few large holes in it to lighten it. This assembly would have gone by much quicker without cutting all the holes, but if I end up with a perfect CG and not having to add any nose weight then it will be worth it. I was only able to install a few stringers this evening because I ran out of 1/4" balsa sticks, but I can already tell that this assembly is still overbuilt. Lanier probably could have gotten away with two less turtledeck stringers on each side. I'm looking forward to finishing the stringers and sheeting the turtledeck, and am hoping to get that done this week if my schedule permits.
Photo 1 shows the rear turtledeck former (F7A) as it comes off the parts sheet. The laser cutting is very nice.
Photo 2 is what F7A looks like after I got to it with a hole saw and 1/4" drill bit.
Photo 3 shows another turtledeck former looking like swiss cheese. Even after I cut that much away from the former, the turtledeck assembly is still very strong.
Photo 4 is what the Edge looks like at the end of the build session.
Overall the belly stringers and turtledeck assembly has taken 3.5 hours to get to where I am now, so the total time on the project is 13.5 hours. Stay tuned for more Edge fun!
Photo 1 shows the rear turtledeck former (F7A) as it comes off the parts sheet. The laser cutting is very nice.
Photo 2 is what F7A looks like after I got to it with a hole saw and 1/4" drill bit.
Photo 3 shows another turtledeck former looking like swiss cheese. Even after I cut that much away from the former, the turtledeck assembly is still very strong.
Photo 4 is what the Edge looks like at the end of the build session.
Overall the belly stringers and turtledeck assembly has taken 3.5 hours to get to where I am now, so the total time on the project is 13.5 hours. Stay tuned for more Edge fun!
06-20-2004, 10:22 AM
#17
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Thanks for the thread. I bought the kit and will start construction next month. I've built several kits so building the body is not a worry. I've never built foam parts so I'm looking forward to hearing techniques for gluing on the skins, etc.
Think this plane will fly OK with a 3W 120? I got one last year at a great price don't have plans for 3D flying, only IMAC Sportsman for now.
Think this plane will fly OK with a 3W 120? I got one last year at a great price don't have plans for 3D flying, only IMAC Sportsman for now.
06-20-2004, 07:22 PM
#18
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
I think a 120 will power this plane reasonably well, though for unlimited performance I'm sure you will need a good 150cc engine. I will be running a three blade prop for noise reduction, which does rob a little power, but with a 150cc engine I'm still expecting very good performance.
06-21-2004, 07:15 PM
#19
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
The spinner came in today! I called Dave Brown Products and was able to get them take a 6" Ultimate spinner and cut it for a three blade Mejzlik. Looks great! It's big too; I've included a pic of the spinner resting on the cowl with my 9C shown for size reference. I also purchased a prop adapter nut with extension, so I won't have to use a 5" flimsy bolt to hold the entire spinner on. The total cost including adapter nut was $110, less than half of what Tru-Turn wants for the same thing. I also purchased some balsa so I could continue working on the turtledeck, which I hope to have completed by tonight. The spinner, plus five bucks worth of balsa, brings the total cost to date up to $690.
06-23-2004, 06:46 AM
#21
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Flyfalcons : What's the condition of the cowl? Is it rough with lots of pin holes in it? I'm not a body man or painter by any means but the cowl on the one I did was about the worst I've seen in respect to smoothness and pin holes. Also, how are you going to mount the cowl to the fuse? thru the sides by drilling holes in the cowl or mount it thru the back of the fire wall, If I had to do it over again I would have mounted it from behind the firewall ...
06-27-2004, 11:34 PM
#22
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Hi Wagas, sorry I have not responded sooner. The cowl appears to be in excellent shape and is very smooth, although I won't know for certain how good it is until I lay down the first coat of primer. I am actually a little concerned about the canopy as it appears to be "clouded"; not as clear as I would like to see. I haven't had a good chance to pull it out and inspect it though.
I am planning on mounting the cowl through the back of the firewall if at all possbile, but I haven't worked on the plane in the last week so it may take some more time to figure out how to make that work.
Since my last update I have finished the turtledeck and the front hatch. I'll have a writeup sometime tomorrow. The combination of work, an IMAC contest, and a flight course has taken most of my time, but hopefully I'll get some work done in the next couple days.
I am planning on mounting the cowl through the back of the firewall if at all possbile, but I haven't worked on the plane in the last week so it may take some more time to figure out how to make that work.
Since my last update I have finished the turtledeck and the front hatch. I'll have a writeup sometime tomorrow. The combination of work, an IMAC contest, and a flight course has taken most of my time, but hopefully I'll get some work done in the next couple days.
06-28-2004, 08:05 AM
#23
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
http://www.lanierrc.com/lrcprivate/index.html
I justed checked Laniers website this morning and the Edge is back on sale again. Just FYI for ya'll
SALE! 40% Edge 540T
40% Edge 540T
#20245
Click for More Information
549.99 + Free Shipping
I justed checked Laniers website this morning and the Edge is back on sale again. Just FYI for ya'll
SALE! 40% Edge 540T
40% Edge 540T
#20245
Click for More Information
549.99 + Free Shipping
06-29-2004, 12:21 AM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Here's the latest update as of this evening. The fuselage is complete for now; I will get back to it when I mount the tail feathers and wings. Some preparation work for the stab halves has been started as well.
The turtledeck sheeting was installed using a combination of wood glue for gap filling and CA to help tack the sheeting in place. One side was done at a time, with the second side taking a little longer since it had to match the fuse and the first half of the sheeting. A little patience and trimming was required to create a smooth, flush turtledeck. Overall the turtledeck looks nice but is way overbuilt. A much lighter method would have been to use sheeted foam or 1/64" ply with minimal formers and no stringers.
The forward hatch assembles much like the turtledeck, with three formers, stringers, and balsa sheeting. The formers are fit into slots in the top of the fuselage, then stringers are added and the hatch is sheeted. Unlike the turtledeck, the sheeting is done with one piece of balsa at a time, with each joint over a stringer. Because each balsa sheet is applied individually, I used CA to hold them in place. The forward hatch is the only time so far I have used hardwood stringers where recommended (the outside stringers). This was to ensure the shape of the hatch was not distorted, and since the hatch is secured to the fuse with only two bolts I decided the strength was worth it. I believe the forward hatch would be a good candidate for a foam/balsa construction setup, since the current setup is fairly heavy. The only snag I noticed on the forward hatch is that the slots for the rear former had to be enlarged. Other than that, the forward hatch assembly was very straightforward.
After the forward hatch is complete, there are a few loose ends to take care of to complete the fuselage. A third aluminum angle brace is glued to the landing gear plate, and is also bolted to the firewall (F1). Doublers were installed at the stab mounts. The manual says to use FS3 formers, but you actually need to use FS4 formers. The FS3 formers will be installed after the stab is mounted. The fuel tank mount is also installed at this time. I drilled six lightening holes in the fuel tank mount to shed some weight. This may need to be modified at a later time to accomodate a smoke tank.
Picture 1 shows the completed turtledeck. A little final sanding will be needed before covering.
Picture 2 shows the forward hatch (with about a million stringers). You can see the rear slots, which had to be enlarged to fit the hatch. You can also see the fuel tank mount in this picture.
Picture 3 shows the stab mount doublers installed. These are FS4s, not FS3s which is what the manual calls for.
Picture 4 is the fuselage in its current state. Note the installed belly stringers, as well as the finger joints in the fuse sides have been cut out. I weighed the fuselage on a bathroom scale and it came out to 5 pounds. Not too bad, though every bit of weight savings will help.
It took five hours of work to get the preceeding steps accomplished, so I'm at a total of 18.5 hours of build time.
The turtledeck sheeting was installed using a combination of wood glue for gap filling and CA to help tack the sheeting in place. One side was done at a time, with the second side taking a little longer since it had to match the fuse and the first half of the sheeting. A little patience and trimming was required to create a smooth, flush turtledeck. Overall the turtledeck looks nice but is way overbuilt. A much lighter method would have been to use sheeted foam or 1/64" ply with minimal formers and no stringers.
The forward hatch assembles much like the turtledeck, with three formers, stringers, and balsa sheeting. The formers are fit into slots in the top of the fuselage, then stringers are added and the hatch is sheeted. Unlike the turtledeck, the sheeting is done with one piece of balsa at a time, with each joint over a stringer. Because each balsa sheet is applied individually, I used CA to hold them in place. The forward hatch is the only time so far I have used hardwood stringers where recommended (the outside stringers). This was to ensure the shape of the hatch was not distorted, and since the hatch is secured to the fuse with only two bolts I decided the strength was worth it. I believe the forward hatch would be a good candidate for a foam/balsa construction setup, since the current setup is fairly heavy. The only snag I noticed on the forward hatch is that the slots for the rear former had to be enlarged. Other than that, the forward hatch assembly was very straightforward.
After the forward hatch is complete, there are a few loose ends to take care of to complete the fuselage. A third aluminum angle brace is glued to the landing gear plate, and is also bolted to the firewall (F1). Doublers were installed at the stab mounts. The manual says to use FS3 formers, but you actually need to use FS4 formers. The FS3 formers will be installed after the stab is mounted. The fuel tank mount is also installed at this time. I drilled six lightening holes in the fuel tank mount to shed some weight. This may need to be modified at a later time to accomodate a smoke tank.
Picture 1 shows the completed turtledeck. A little final sanding will be needed before covering.
Picture 2 shows the forward hatch (with about a million stringers). You can see the rear slots, which had to be enlarged to fit the hatch. You can also see the fuel tank mount in this picture.
Picture 3 shows the stab mount doublers installed. These are FS4s, not FS3s which is what the manual calls for.
Picture 4 is the fuselage in its current state. Note the installed belly stringers, as well as the finger joints in the fuse sides have been cut out. I weighed the fuselage on a bathroom scale and it came out to 5 pounds. Not too bad, though every bit of weight savings will help.
It took five hours of work to get the preceeding steps accomplished, so I'm at a total of 18.5 hours of build time.
06-29-2004, 08:22 AM
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RE: Lanier 40% Edge build thread
Excellent writeup!!!!! Can't wait to see the finished product. I've been toying the idea of eventually buiding Lanier's Sukhoi. How would you rate the quality of the kit so far?
Neo
Neo