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What defines a good first plane or trainer?

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What defines a good first plane or trainer?

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Old 08-12-2003, 09:53 PM
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aeajr
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Default What defines a good first plane or trainer?

I recently got into an lively discussion with several people about what constitutes a good first plane, or a trainer. It was clear we all had different ideas and different criteria, so I thought I would get some feedback from the community. First I will pose some open questions that I think are relevant to the discussion. Feel free to add your own points.

WHAT ARE THE GOALS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF A FIRST PLANE?

WHAT ARE THE GOALS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF A TRAINER?

ARE A FIRST PLANE AND A TRAINER THE SAME THING?

DOES THE TYPE OF POWER MATTER?

MUST THE RADIO HAVE A BUDDY CORD CAPABILITY?

WHAT IS THE MINIMUM BUDGET A NEW FLYER WOULD HAVE TO COMMIT IN ORDER TO BE EQUIPPED TO MEET YOUR DEFINITION?

I ask these questions because beginners often ask questions like this and we, the RC community, give them all kinds of answers, but I rarely see clear explainations of what the posters are basing their recommendations upon or what goals they assume the new pilot should have. So, here is our opportunity to discuss these points. This way we can more clearly advise new and prospective pilots and be clear on why we make these recommendations.
Old 08-12-2003, 09:54 PM
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Default What defines a good first plane or trainer?

Here are my thoughts:


WHAT ARE THE GOALS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF A FIRST PLANE?

To me, the goal of the first plane is to give the new pilot the greatest opportunity to succeed. A first plane should be easy to fly. To that end, it should be very stable, highly self correcting and have a minimum of extra features. It should be rugged and easily repaired so minor crashes can be fixed at the field and flying can continue.

Depending on the size of the field, it should be slow to moderate in speed to give the pilot time to react and recover from errors. I would say high wing planes would be preferred. I feel the simplicity of electrics make them easier to learn to fly, so I will suggest electrics as first planes. (I started with an electric then moved to gliders, so I am biased this way.)

Unless the new pilot is strongly motivated to build, I would suggest that the first plane be an ARF or RTF to minimize the chance that a building error will compromise the pilots opportunity to succeed in flying. I feel that requiring new pilots to build their first plane from a kit is a strong deterrent to entry into the hobby. I know I would not be flying today if I had to build even an ARF. I started on an RTF electric because that was the ONLY way I was going to give this a try.

Kits, and even ARFs, would have required too much investment of time and required too much learning about components before I could get to what I wanted to do, which was to fly. I would also be too worried that my lack of building skills would cause a poor flying session or a crash. I would be torn with doubt all the time. I didn't build my first car and I did not want to build my first RC plane.

Building can come later. I am now starting down this path, now that I know I can fly.


WHAT ARE THE GOALS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF A TRAINER?

I see this as the same as the first plane except that the word trainer implies the strong involvement of an instructor, so a buddy corded radio implied, though perhaps not required. Otherwise I see no difference between the two.


ARE A FIRST PLANE AND A TRAINER THE SAME THING?

No! A first plane does not assume an instructor. It may be intended for someone to learn on their own or with only minimal instruction.


DOES THE TYPE OF POWER MATTER?

I feel the power source is irrelevent to the goals of the plane and the pilot. Personally I have not expectation that I will ever fly a glo or gasoline based plane. Some new pilots may have not interest in electrics or gliders. Of course interests change, but I do not see power source as part of the definition. I will say that, since fuel planes tend to be more powerful and heavier, and can be more prone to engine problems than electrics or pure gliders (dah), that the buddy cord becomes more important during the training of the pilot when their first plane is a fuel plane.


MUST THE RADIO HAVE A BUDDY CORD CAPABILITY?

If the new pilot is going to train at a highly managed field where landing protocols include a strict runway landing environment, then I would say a buddy cord is highly recommended if not required. If you learn in a large open grass field, as I did, than I would say it is nice to have but not required. If the plane is very delicate, then a buddy cord should be requierd as the risk of damage is high.


WHAT IS THE MINIMUM BUDGET A NEW FLYER WOULD HAVE TO COMMIT IN ORDER TO BE EQUIPPED TO MEET YOUR DEFINITION?

A two channel electric RTF can be purchased for a little as $50 which will allow the new pilot to fly. However I would strongly recommend a new pilot start on a three channel plane. RTF three channel electrics start at $125 and there are many choices in the under $200 range, so I would say $175 to $250 for an RTF 3 channel electric including a second battery and a 12 volt peak charger. A second wing or tail might also be advisable depending on the particular model's tendancy to break given parts on hard landings.

So, those are my thoughts. What are yours?



Old 08-13-2003, 12:26 PM
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ballgunner
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Default What defines a good first plane or trainer?

The goals and characteristics of a first plane and the goals and characteristics of a trainer are for all practical purposes the same. Each must be simple to construct, repair and maintain. The goals of both are almost identical in that it must be reasonably easy to fly, WITH THE AID OF AN INSTRUCTOR. The model should be of a fairly good size making it visible at a distance as well as making it fairly easy to determine its attitude in fight. To this degree there is little actual difference between the two. The appearance of the model should appeal to the new pilot. There are lots of ugly, albeit practical aircraft, that do not have the appearance of a full sized aircraft. The new pilot will, in most cases want his airplane to look "real". This may sound like a small matter but when he invites his friends over to see his new toy he will want their approval of its looks. The type of power is a very important for a true beginner. The engine should be easy to start and reliable. With electric the type of ESC and battery and servo matching are very important as well as the weight/aircraft matching to power. For the glow engine reliability is the key. A few deadstick landings or crashes are most discouraging, not to us old timers who expect a certain amount of both, but to the beginner they are far from what he wants. Of course that the engine matches the aircraft goes without saying. A buddy box and cord are not absolutely essential but they can probably do more, in the hands of a competent instructor, than anything else to keep the newcomer interested.
Crashes are very discouraging to say the least. The Xmitter can be passed back and forth if no buddy box is available but the instructor must explain the difference between this method and the buddy system and be sure to fly at least three mistakes high. As to cost that depends on just how much the beginner is able or willing to spend. I have Slow Stick that cost $188.00 from the box to the flight line. That includes the model, new radio, ESC and extra batteries. I have airplanes and sailboats that cost up to $1000.00 and more but I have been building since I was 9 years old and I'm 79 now. All the above indicates RC aircraft although there are other aspects to consider such as sailboats, power boats and cars. Don't forget sailplanes, including electric, winch or hi-start launch and slope soaring. A few hours of hangar flying and orientation are also a must. I'm sure I've left out something important to someone but I'm still at the same old stand for more questions.

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