Cutting Plastic Cowls
12-04-2001, 02:00 AM
#1
Cutting Plastic Cowls
Just added this forum 12/3/01 so I'll kick it right off here.
I just finished my Cap 232 and used a lexan scissor and a dremel to cut out the cowl. What techniques are you guys using to cut these cowls for engine clearance and what tips do you have for getting the hole in the right place when first starting cutting.
Mine was already cut for my engine so I just had to fine tune it a bit.
I just finished my Cap 232 and used a lexan scissor and a dremel to cut out the cowl. What techniques are you guys using to cut these cowls for engine clearance and what tips do you have for getting the hole in the right place when first starting cutting.
Mine was already cut for my engine so I just had to fine tune it a bit.
12-04-2001, 05:09 PM
#2
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Cutting Plastic Cowls
Tip: Buy World Models ARF's 
They come with a very nice clear dummy cowl to mark up and overlay the real cowl.
As for any other kit cowl, don't know. I haven't started on my Piper Tomahawk or my Lanier 3.25. Both of which are cowled. I would also be interested in some tips or tricks.
They come with a very nice clear dummy cowl to mark up and overlay the real cowl.
As for any other kit cowl, don't know. I haven't started on my Piper Tomahawk or my Lanier 3.25. Both of which are cowled. I would also be interested in some tips or tricks.
12-05-2001, 03:19 PM
#3
cowl
I do the cutting pretty much the same way as you Admin. It goes pretty quickly with the dremel and sanding drum.
As for locating the starting point, I stick a pin through the plastic at about the location I think is close. I peek inside to see what part of the engine the pin is contacting. When I've got it just about where I want it, I slowly start opening the hole up, constantly test fitting, until I can see what I'm doing through the hole itself. From there, it's easy.
As for locating the starting point, I stick a pin through the plastic at about the location I think is close. I peek inside to see what part of the engine the pin is contacting. When I've got it just about where I want it, I slowly start opening the hole up, constantly test fitting, until I can see what I'm doing through the hole itself. From there, it's easy.
12-05-2001, 07:11 PM
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Here's how I do it. I mount the engine and then take a stiff piece of card stock and cut out the shape of the cylinder head. Cut the board about 2 to 3 inches wide and long enough so when it's on the engine it's over lapping on the fuselage by a good distance. Put some alignment marks on the fuselage for later. Now remove the engine and put the cowl on, take the board that you made and match to the marks on the fuselage and tape it in place so that it's laying on the cowl. Now you have the location where the hole for the engine should be cut.
12-06-2001, 06:44 PM
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"Ditto" on what Art said but I also do the same for the needle valve and/or idle adjustment openings. And, if needed, clearance for the muffler as necessary. I've been using a knurled burr bit on my Dremel to rough cut the openings and then use a sanding drum to fine tune. And, what I've come to find out to be beneficial further down the road - epoxy some fiberglass at or around the openings and along the rear edge. Without it, over time (and vibration), the ABS will start to crack.
Ted
Ted
