Golden Blunder

Hi this is my first large scale plane a 30% cap 232.
it is of built up construction and i will be covering it with best
grade shrink film.
My question is are multi colored models done by painting over
the base film or by applying different colored film over the base
film. The film i am using is profilm.
thanks for any help

BingoFlyer

Golden Blunder,

I make what i refer to as a skin. Starting the light color cut 3/16" larger that pattern (for overlap) and if a wing large enough to work on the edge side. Using a spray bottle with a little detergent wet the glass and place film on the glass, squeegee water out. Then place the next color in place using the same spray mixture and a 3/16" overlap again squeegee water out, then, using your sealing iron set as hot as you can without shrinking the film, seal the edges together. I continue until I have all colors and a complete skin. The skin can then be put on as a single piece of film.

Using this method save weight and prevents boubles from traped air between the covering if you just apply trim over the covering base.

This sounds much harder that it is but practice first on some scrap.

The transparent Orange on my "Bingo" was laid on first and then the white.

Giant Scale

There are some GS planes that are covered with film and then graphics are airbrushed on top of them. Check out this link for a really nice example
http://www.aircraft-intl.com/catalog...h/redcheck.jpg

I haven't actually tried to do this but from what I understand the film is lightly sanded to rough the surface and then airbrushed. They usually add an agent to the paint to help it stay flexible and give it more chip resistance.

Golden Blunder

Thanks you guys for the feedback.
So from this i take it that open framed models are generally covered from
individual color pieces of film and then shrunk with heat.do you
make up paper templates as you apply each piece?
My bit of knowlege comes from spraying cars with 2 pack paint,
this i could apply in thin coats.My main worry with this is the
weight and the movement of the film causing the paint to flake.
I see so many well finished planes on the web yet i have found
little on tecniques any advice is welcome.

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

WOW, what a great topic. I'm a professional artist and graphic designer with over 23 years experience with illustration, airbrushing, computer graphics and scale plastic modeling, but new to the RC world. I've done some nice looking planes in MonoKote, but would LOVE to be able to use my full artistic talents on a plane with an airbrush.

I've seen some awesome airbrushed planes, so I know you can do this on film. My question is would someone chime in with some tested and proven techniques for airbrushing on film. Here are some things I'd need to know before trying it:

1) What kind of film works best for airbrushing on?
2) What kind of paint is best for using on said film?
3) What kind of additives should be used in the paint if any?
4) What preparations need done (sanding) to the film prior to painting?
5) If sanding, do you sand the film before putting it on?
6) What about the areas you're not painting, do they get sanded as well, forcing you to base coat the entire plane?
7) Do you have to clear-coat the whole plane after airbrushing, and if so, with what type of clear coat?
8) Can you still shrink out the post-flight wrinkles of an airbrushed plane?
9) Are there any sites on the web that document the procedure?
10) I use small "fine arts" sized airbrushes, do you have to use a larger "automotive" sized paint gun for base and clear coats (to get even sold coverage of large areas?
11) Are you tired of reading these questions?!

I know that's a lot to ask, but they are all things you've gotta know before jumping in feet first with paint on something you've spent 3 months or more building! I can't afford to screw it up.

Most of my airbrushing experience consists of traditional artwork on canvas (portraits, wildlife, etc.) and I've done a few cars, guitars, etc. as well. I'm very adept at using this tool but don't know where to begin using it on a film-covered plane. I think I could figure it out if I were shooting a glassed plane, but I don't want to glass a sport/acro plane!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

Golden Blunder

NEO
I like all these questions,saved me asking.Remember some of
the nice paint jobs are done over composit glass air frames such
as the Fibre Classics.

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Yeah, I know about the glass frames. But, that's mostly warbirds. You seldom find someone building a high performance acro plane like an Edge 540, Cap 232, etc. and weighing it down with a glass frame... sometimes, but not often. I think most of them are still using film.

Tom

BingoFlyer

Golden Blunder,

I use a product called See-Temp for my patterns. It is a transparent plastic or mylar material that has a flat finish. After drawing the pattern on plans it is very easy to trace it onto the See-Temp, I just draw the overlap by hand then using a #11 knife I just score on the lines and the template just snaps out on the scribed line. I them use the template to cut the film (I use MonoKote but this method will work on any film and on open or sheeted frame.

bmustang

My Feedback: (4)

Top-Flite Monokote comes in a Clear that is treated to accept paint. At least TF USED to advertise it that way. "Clear" is still listed among the available colors.

So, unless there has been some change in recent years, you should be able to airbrush that to your heart's content and probably most paints will work, but if your airplane uses glow fuel you will need to clear coat it with something fuel resistant if your colors are not.

I have used Top Flite Lusterkote clear (comes in spray cans) for this, but a lot of us are less than happy with these cans. On my recent project I was using the Matt Clear over Krylon colors from spray cans. One can of clear worked fine. The second one would occasionally spit big drops of liquid among the fine spray mist that would leave a visible spot after it dried. Interestingly, the Krylon spray cans, that cost half as much as the hobby spray cans, never gave me any trouble.

Tom

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Tom,

Thanks for the info. I've heard the same story before regarding clear MonoKote, a likely route for me. I've used the LustreKote Crystal Clear (gloss) over LK colors on my Extra 300 and know just what you mean about the poor, inconsistent atomization of the paint. That scares me when it comes to painting over HOURS of airbrushed artwork. However, I'd need to be sure any alternative, better-spraying paint would adhere to the MK and stay flexible if I didn't use LK clear.

In the past, on autos, guitars, bows, etc. I've had great success with automotive enamel base/color coats, then airbrushing artwork using water-based acrylic artists paint (same as I use on canvases) then clear-coating over the airbrushed subject with automotive clear-coat. I got a beautiful, glossy clear finish over the whole paint job and it really sealed in the artists paint. The artists paint is EXTREMELY easy to paint with, mix colors and get just what you want for you artwork as well as very flexibile after drying. However, I'm sure it's not fuelproof and can easily be scratched/rubbed off if you don't clearcoat it.

I think what I need to do is stretch a test frame of MK out, shrink it down, basecoat it, airbrush it and clear it to see if it would work. I'm just not sure how the sanding should be done (before or after applying the MK to the frame), nor am I sure what base & clear paints to use????

Tom

Golden Blunder

Automotive acrilic 2 pack paint and laquer seems
not to react to most materials,holds down well,needs no buffing,
colors very thinly,very durable ,fuel resistant and easy to spray.
Main drawbacks are the fumes it gives off and once mixed has
to be used.

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

GB,

Thanks for the info, that's what I was afraid of. I can't shoot automotive paints through my airbrushes, they are designed for fine arts & illustration, and/or water base paints like arts/crafts acrylics. I don't have a big "automotive" paint gun and it's not worth investing in one for this, nor do I have a good area to paint with a gun that large. I'd rather stick with a spray can product for base & clear coats (not the artwork of course) but that may not be possible.

Thanks,

Tom

Golden Blunder

Neo
Although i do understand your reluctance to using 2 pack
through your airbrush the rewards for doing so can be amazing.
About 5 years back at a motorcyle function here in the UK i met
a airbrush guru called Nobby.He is well known here for painting
crash helmuts and running a art school .Whilst admiring one of
his totally stunning works of art i asked him what paints he uses
and he told me 2 pack through a Devilbis.
I have tried small amounts through a simple badger 150 with
about 20 minutes working time using a medium nozzle.Clean up
was easy.250ml tins are the smallest i can get but it has a good
shelf life.

Golden Blunder

Try this sitewinshiprc.tripod.com/painting_techniques.htm check out the spacewalker

049flyer

My Feedback: (18)

For clearcoat paint or even colors, you might try K&B Ultrapoxy paint. It is a true two part epoxy paint and very fuel resistant. It is still available direct from K&B, just ordered some myself.

You may also still be able to find some Hobbypoxy laying around in a hobbyshop or on one of the message boards around here. Great stuff!!!!