What can you use to remove the paint from mousse cans?
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What can you use to remove the paint from mousse cans?
I'v tried brake fluid, and a few other solvents but always resort back to sanding. Is there a solvent I can use?
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What can you use to remove the paint from mousse cans?
I use paint/varnish remover, just bubbles up the paint and then I buff it up with some steel wool. WAY easier than sanding off! Oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide) will eventually eat away at the paint but its much easier and probably a lot cheaper to use paint stripper.
AJC
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What can you use to remove the paint from mousse cans?
If you buy paint stripper, look for methylene chloride in the contents. Nasty stuff, but will do the job the quickest.
Better living thru chemistry................
Better living thru chemistry................
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What can you use to remove the paint from mousse cans?
littlepiston,
Best $22 you could ever spend for a hop-up. Usually 1 to 2k increase in rpm.
Look here:
http://www.geocities.com/paducahrc/Article3a.html
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/hobby/mcm.htm
If you need additional hel, just ask.
Best $22 you could ever spend for a hop-up. Usually 1 to 2k increase in rpm.
Look here:
http://www.geocities.com/paducahrc/Article3a.html
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/hobby/mcm.htm
If you need additional hel, just ask.
#11
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Mean stuff
I tell you one thing I have used in the past has been automotive hot tank solution. If you locate the stuff for iron, it carries a PH of 13 and is really mean. Dipping into cold solution, it will remove epoxy and urethane type paints, besides your common lacquer, enamel and alclyd based products.
Works great on a fiberglass nose or fuselage. Exposes the scratches so that you can Bondo them up and refinish. Removes old Bondo too.
If water will not hurt your model, then it is OK to go ahead with on cold basis. Heat it up to about 140-160, and oils then come flowing out too. Use soapy Brillo pad to finish up with and it is ready to paint. If you are not used to it, don't try it.
Wm.
Works great on a fiberglass nose or fuselage. Exposes the scratches so that you can Bondo them up and refinish. Removes old Bondo too.
If water will not hurt your model, then it is OK to go ahead with on cold basis. Heat it up to about 140-160, and oils then come flowing out too. Use soapy Brillo pad to finish up with and it is ready to paint. If you are not used to it, don't try it.
Wm.
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Mousse can muffler
If you strip the paint, you will expose bare aluminum the the air. It will begin to oxidize immeditely, turning black. You will need to paint it with a clear coat of something. You might be better off ot just paint it a color you like.
#13
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aluminum...
If you polish aluminum up it takes quite some time to go "black" - a very long time! Look at all the pipes and mufflers and headers out there from places like Mac's and such, they are not painted or anodised, just plain aluminum and they last years before they need a little polishing up. Also most if not all aluminum spinners are the same way.
I have tried high temp BBQ paint but even that goes soft on me, so I just leave em' bare.
AJC
I have tried high temp BBQ paint but even that goes soft on me, so I just leave em' bare.
AJC
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What can you use to remove the paint from mousse cans?
I have sanded them shiney, then season them with a light oil. I've never had one go black. They always have that brushed look, I thought polished or even anodized would look cool, not so "hokey home-made".