JVB

My Feedback: (2)

I have used Robart hinges several times with no problems. However, my current project has fairly thick surfaces and they are tapered. The edges are already beveled. The little hole drilling guide for the hinges is not working well to locate the holes. Any suggestions on other methods of drilling the holes for Robart hinges? Thanks.

Crash90

My Feedback: (17)

I use my dremmel on the large surfaces. I start with a small pilot hole and work my way up. Works fine.

the-plumber

Got a drill press ?

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah I have a drill press. I tried using it on a test piece and no matter what I did, the bit would go a little either way of center. It would be no problem if I was drilling into a flat surface, however, I am drilling into the peak of the preshaped leading and trailing edges.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

JVB, the Tettra hinging tool is designed for longitudinal and transverse tapered surfaces. Comes in two sizes, small and large. The large one is suitable for 60-size and above planes. Do a seach and you'll probably find a retailer. I have the English translation of the Japanese instruction. PM me your email if you want it. Central Hobbies may carry them.

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Mike. Central Hobbies carries them. I think it is used for cutting slots for CA type hinges. I am drilling holes for Robart hinges. Let me know if I am wrong.

voyager_663rd

You know where you want the hole. File a flat spot (the narrow width of the file) across the bevel. Now use your drill press on the center of that flat spot.

Starfighter

My Feedback: (78)

Hi, name's Ken (Starfighter). Been modeling 43yrs. and R/C for 34+. (only providing this so you understand that I've been around and have seen/done a lot in this hobby.)

You , and EVERYONE responding to this issue are making things TOO HARD on yourselves.(I'm not trying to come off as a know-it-all either!)

1. You don't need any special drill devices to center /drill the holes for the hinges. Really. All you need to do is find a #2 Phillips Head Screwdriver with a 3/16"shank(thus the #2 driver, should automatically be 3/16" shank. If not, try a #1). The 3/16" dia. is the same dia. as the lg. Hinge Point.

2. Take the pointed end of the screwdriver, place on the location of the hinge, and use the screwdriver as your drill bit. Yes, as the drill bit for the hinge point.

3. Twist as you push the screwdriver through the balsa(or foam), and with experience you will learn the correct pressure/twist to ensure that you don't tear out the balsa on the other side. If your drill(screwdriver) is a little dull, dress up the end with a file, etc. to sharpen.

So, there you have it. NO need to mess with lame centering devices(that don't ALWAYS center the drill). You get perfect hinge point holes, EVERY time when using this method. Also works great when you have to mount a hinge point at an angle(as when hinging flaps,etc.).

IMHO, this is the very best way to deal with the issue of drilling holes for Robarts Hinge Points. Been doing it this way since the Robarts came out(MANY moons ago), and I glue them in with Aliphatic resins. NEVER had a failure...(also giving you a TIP Robart doesn't want you to know about, as they also market their solution to the drilling problem[hand held centering jig])

Thanx for reading/listening, and go hinge some surfaces! Happy Holidays, and ENJOY!

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

Ken,

I am glad you came across this thread and responded. I tried using your suggestion last nite and it worked great. I was a bit dubious, however, it worked better than anything else I have tried. Holes were perfectly centered and it was not hard to make them straight. I had a 1/8 inch shaft Craftsman driver with a really sharp point. It was actually quicker than drilling as it took no time to try to line up the hole drilling jig.

Thanks for the great idea.

Wing-Ding

I used 3/16" Robart Hinge points for the first time a few weeks ago. I read many posts on this before I began and still got into trouble. First off, Ken is absolutely correct. The drill jig does not always center the hole. I found that out the hard way when I drilled into the double beveled aileron. Plus, when you have very soft balsa ailerons, the drill fixture leaves dents even when you think you're being careful.

I used Pacer hinge glue on the right wing. Worked fine. Then, when I did the left wing, I decided to apply a drop of 3 in 1 oil as described in another post. Somehow it must have wicked down into the hinge/wood contact because the joint DID NOT hold! The whole aileron came off when I tugged on it 24 hours later.

So I used Polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) and used vasoline in the hinges beforehand. It worked fine. Since the vasoline is viscous, you can control exactly where you apply the lubricant. When the gorilla glue expands, it has a hard time getting into the hinge pivot because of the vasoline.

As far as getting the holes dead center, I started with a small pilot drill and worked my way up to 3/16". Perfect every time. With the Robart drill jig, I screwed up so badly that I had to plug a hole with a dowel and re-drill.

Marl

jaka

Hi!
There are many ways of fixing holes for Robart hinges but non better than this.....I learned it from Watching Lyle Larsson's video film ("There are no secrets" ) (3 videos)on how to build a F1 pylonracer 10 or more years ago.

Use a Dremel and a 1/8, or smaller, wolfram carbide router from Micro Mark and drill/route the hole....you control the direction of the router by holding the aileron (or whatever it is) with your thumb and index finger. This way you feel the router working inside the balsa aileron and can contoll which direction it is heading
This is a very simple and quick metod. see pictures.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Safebet

My Feedback: (12)

Does Micro Mark have a link where I might purchase the router bit you are taling about for my dremel?

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

www.micromark.com

Wing-Ding

What advantage does the router bit have over a regular drill? Thanks.

Marl