HOW DO I REPAIR THE BALSA WOOD?
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HOW DO I REPAIR THE BALSA WOOD?
This might seem like a stupid question but I constantly have this problem and by the time my project is done, I can't finish it with anything other that MONOKOTE. I'd like to try actually painting but with the CA "stains" I can't.
The question is this: How do I get rid of the CA that has hardened on the surface area of my BALSA? When I use a THIN CA, it goes past the point of just adhesing the wood. If there was a gap that I didn't see, then it slides down all over a major portion of the surface area. When it comes time to prep the finished model for a priming coat (finish) the heavy stain from the CA comes "shining" thru. YUK!
Please, any suggestions other than, "be more careful"
marwen
The question is this: How do I get rid of the CA that has hardened on the surface area of my BALSA? When I use a THIN CA, it goes past the point of just adhesing the wood. If there was a gap that I didn't see, then it slides down all over a major portion of the surface area. When it comes time to prep the finished model for a priming coat (finish) the heavy stain from the CA comes "shining" thru. YUK!
Please, any suggestions other than, "be more careful"
marwen
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RE: HOW DO I REPAIR THE BALSA WOOD?
Are you using micro applicator tips? You can find these at the hobby shop and they can give you better control. I have seen syringe type applicators, but have not tried them myself. You can also try using a medium CA instead of thin CA. I do most of my building with medium, and use the thin only when good wicking is required (such as hardening threads for screw holes).
If your plane is completely sheeted, you might want to try a fiberglass coat. Glassing is the preferred method of preparing the surface of a model for painting. There are a number of threads about glassing and where to get further info.
Hope this helps
Scott
If your plane is completely sheeted, you might want to try a fiberglass coat. Glassing is the preferred method of preparing the surface of a model for painting. There are a number of threads about glassing and where to get further info.
Hope this helps
Scott
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RE: HOW DO I REPAIR THE BALSA WOOD?
Hi!
If I understand you correctly you say that you can't paint your airplane because of hardened CA glue on the fuselage and wing. Well, its never good to paint directly on the balsa anyway so a much better way of doing it is to cover the balsa with something first. tissue and dope is the old method and using glass fiber (25g) and finishing resin (either polyester resin or 24 hour epoxy resin) is the more modern way of doing it.
But why don't just sand away the glossy CA overflow and use Oracover (Ultra-cote in the US)plastic film which is much better than MonoKote and easier to use. Much lighter than the finishing resin method.
Regards!
Jan K
If I understand you correctly you say that you can't paint your airplane because of hardened CA glue on the fuselage and wing. Well, its never good to paint directly on the balsa anyway so a much better way of doing it is to cover the balsa with something first. tissue and dope is the old method and using glass fiber (25g) and finishing resin (either polyester resin or 24 hour epoxy resin) is the more modern way of doing it.
But why don't just sand away the glossy CA overflow and use Oracover (Ultra-cote in the US)plastic film which is much better than MonoKote and easier to use. Much lighter than the finishing resin method.
Regards!
Jan K
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RE: HOW DO I REPAIR THE BALSA WOOD?
CA comes off with lots of rubbing with acetone or MEK. Coarse sandpaper also works.
My ultimate suggestion is not to build with CA. It makes an ugly mess and there's no way to control where it goes (the thin stuff). I hate sloppy looking wood work which is why I don't use CA except in rare instances.
My ultimate suggestion is not to build with CA. It makes an ugly mess and there's no way to control where it goes (the thin stuff). I hate sloppy looking wood work which is why I don't use CA except in rare instances.