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R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

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R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

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Old 12-09-2004, 06:41 PM
  #1  
jimcork1
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Default R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Has anyone built the TF Gold Nobler. I am building one with flaps and retracts. Using a La. 46 for power and hobbico retracts. Just wondering if anyone has built and flown this bird. I still have time to change the plane, only 1 wing panel is formed up. Happy flying. Jim
Old 12-17-2004, 09:38 AM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

For those looking,, I am progressing on the Nobler. Retracts installed both wing panels complete and so is the stab and rudder. Ok,, so I don't follow instructions well. The manual wanted to build the fuse prior to the wing,, but I like to have the wing to check the fuse as I build. So far it is going together well, but takes almost 100% CA to follow directions. More to come as I progress. If anyone else has info or tips or is interested in building just post and let me know. I am also installing flaps. Merry Christmas
Old 12-19-2004, 02:19 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

looks like not too many people are flying / building them
guess we`ll have to go it by feel and find out LOL

I am building mine with flap and retracts also
good luck
quite similar to Kobra size and moments
should be a good flyer
Old 12-21-2004, 12:36 AM
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big max 1935
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Built a couple of the old original ones years ago with .60 engines in them , built kind of heavy but flew quite well in all conditions . Built the new one when it first came out & thought it was MUCH more labor intensive than the old one . Mine had the tip up wings , seemed to fly funny . Had flaps that were very effective & didn't change trim when deployed. Flew fast with a Super Tiger ABC .61 in it . Sold it as I thought it just didn't come up to the old ones & I was spoiled by them . Maybe it was the bent wing ? Have fun , MAX H.
Old 12-23-2004, 02:01 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

I have both wing panels, horizontal stab, ailerons, rudder completed. I do find it a bid more complex to build. The jig for the ribs seemed to work well but it took a lot of effort. You would think the 1/4" steel rods like the Kaos would have been easier. The 1/8" gap for the joiner seems questionable at this time, but more to come on after I join the wing halves. I have the hobbico retracts and servo. so we will see how it goes as I progress. So far everything is straight and true but I haven't been able to work on the radio placement due to balance. I will be using the La. 46 I would like servos in the tail as current practice, but until I get the fuse framed up I can't check balance. Ya'll have fun.. Merry Christmas.. Jim
Old 12-23-2004, 09:00 PM
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big max 1935
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Well gang I'm sorry but my old eyes read Contender instead of Nobler . Built the Nobler U-control one but all I could do was fly that in close (60feet). Sorry, MERRY CHRISTMAS !! MAX H.[]
Old 12-24-2004, 10:18 AM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Congradulations Max,, at least you flew it. Mine is still making balsa dust, and will be ready to fly early next year. Merry Christmas. Jim
Old 12-27-2004, 08:38 AM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Ok,, now Wing is framed up but not joined. Retracts ready but no linkage. Stab, rudder ready and so are the flaps. Decided to go with 1 flap servo, still think it would be better to have rud and elev servo in the tail but I am worried about the cg being too tail heavy.
If the servos were in the tail,, this would free up space in the fuse. and prevent inteferrance between the push rods.

Looks like noone has built this kit. Perhaps they aren't selling?
Old 12-27-2004, 10:20 AM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Well my fuselage is all ready to sheet the top will probably go to servos in the back, flush mount like the aileronsbut will check cg first to decide.
the 2 wing panels are framed up ready to install the sheeting
decided to go with fixed gear, rough grass field and retracts do not go well together
ailerons and flaps and stab, rud fin elevators ready to cover. will be using a FX .46
would have liked to use a Saito 72 but would have to modify the firewall and mount
engine is too long.
Keep up the good work
and Happy holidays to ALL

Jean
Old 12-28-2004, 10:27 AM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Jean,, I installed 1 retract yesterday. Time consuming but it did fit well. Push rod interferrance with the wheels is a problem on mechanical retracts. Perhaps I should have gone with fixed gear,, I also fly on grass. I agree with the Saito, I really prefer these engines to 2 stroke,, but I have a new LA .46 broken in and ready to install. I have found GWS servos with BB and MG at 30 oz that are about 1/2 the weight of regular servos. I plan to install them in the tail vs in the fuse. OKK<< I know I don't follow instructions.

I also built the wing before the fuse. I have been working on the fit of the 2 wing halves with the 1/8" ply joiner. Finally got a good fit. Almost no gap between the ribs #1.

I have competed the flaps,, stab,, vert. fin. elev,, rud,, and wing halves. Too cold for epoxy to set, On a warm day I will join the wing halves.

Also I don't like the wing tips with the strips of 1/8" wood at the leading edge curved portion of the tip,, This just doesn't cover well. I think I will use balsa hollowed out and shaped for that part for a nicer wing tip.
Old 12-28-2004, 01:37 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Do you guys have any build pics? I am starting on mine this week. I am going to resist the temptation of building it with retracts.

Dave
Old 12-28-2004, 02:32 PM
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supersod
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

to Davesplace80 I have built the nobler with mechanical retracts and yes the push rods do rub because there is not to much clearence also they say to put a ply floor where you mount the servo use the thinest ply you can get. The quicklink screw on the throttle servo will stick up just past the wing saddle, I notched out the top of the wing for that, you dont see it and it causes no structural problem. I will suggest you use the Hitec 555 micro receiver in place where they want, standard receivers are to big after you rap them with foam. As for the wing tips I used gussets at all 90% angles both on the tip and in the last two rib bays.I believe in strenght.
I am using the L A 46 with a remote glow head on the side cheek.
Old 12-28-2004, 03:36 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

My Dad built and flew one of these for the most part of the last year or so. Seemed like a very complicated build. It is a pretty nice flier. A real rocket on a 46FX, sort of looked like vintage racer. It snaps and spins better than you might expect, doesn't KE worth a flip. The flaps are more to play with than anything else, he rarely landed his with flaps. He eventually changed the retracts to a fixed gear mounted just in front of the wing on the fuselage. The wingtips are also quite fragile.

A word of caution on the retract installation - the instructions have you cut away a significant portion of the retract mounting rail to clear the strut spring and it leave only a narrow section of the rail when completed. This is where his broke and he subsequently installed the fixed gear.

Another note... his was surprisongly nose heavy. We had to put the battery in the fuse behind the wing.

Richard
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:23 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

well completed one wing panel and started the other. too late too back down it will be fixed gear and will be finished in the snowbird theme
might get some pics, if not too lazy LOL
I hate those wing tips also, hate carving but might get the old vac machine out and draw a couple in plastic
Old 12-30-2004, 07:49 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

I agree w/ cutting away the support for the retracts to allow for the strut. I am concerned also about failure here. The cutaway doesn't leave much for strength. On smooth paved runways it might be a non issue,, but I land on grass. I really don't like the way mine currently looks. I will probably reinforce after I install the linkage. Tomorrow if all goes well I will join the wing halves. Then time to figure out how to mount the retract servo.

You are right,, due to size, this more complex to build than I would expect for a Gold Edition kit. Reminds me of the older kits, with cut and fit. The main spar when installed left a tiny light gap over the webbing. I did not like that either. I had to do more work to correct. The wing tips also don't look right, with the ribs at the leading edge. I will probably carve balsa tips and hollow out for a smoother wing.

The retract will certainly be interesting to see if they hold up. I don't think they will as installed from instructions. The push rod to activate the retract runs directly over the wheel, very tight fit to avoid hitting and binding on the wheel.

Jim
Old 12-31-2004, 08:47 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

As of tonight
the wing is joined, the belly pan is completed
the wing is bolted on the fuse.throt. servo and flaps servo installed
aileron servos also , all surfaceshinged ( not glued yet)
gonna install rud and elev servos in tail S77 low profiles
mooving alond in high gear now.
happy newyear to all

Jean
Old 01-02-2005, 01:04 PM
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jimcork1
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Just an update.. I have the fuse sides glued w/doublers. Never saw such crooked wood before. My home made parts were better than the fuse parts so far. I have done nothing to reinforce the retracts, and I would expect them to fail on landing as built as per directions. I have decided to use micro 30 oz torque servos for the elev and rud, and mount in the tail as big bird. This clears up a lot of room inside the fuse and prevents problems with rods hitting the flap servo.

I will use the La .46.. (used but still ok for a new bird and never crashed). The engine will have a remote glow so I don't have to reach under the plane.

Retracts really concern me,, clearance for the actuation rod and strength. I wonder if other gold edition kits have such poor part fit as this one, and weak design around the retracts.

Directions are not very clear for installation of retracts. They could have made a precut ply rib to allow fit of the retracts vs. having to grind here for fit.

Also note, instructions state use 6 min epoxy to join the firewall halves. (warning,, it is my understanding 6 min is NOT fuel proof) I never use 6 min where fuel will be such as engine mounts. I only use 30 min or longer. But I could be wrong here buy why chance it.

I will take some pics later today.. Jim
Old 01-02-2005, 06:35 PM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Good going
tried to post some pics could not
I have the wing completed and mounted fuse completed and sanded
just glued (30 min epox the tail assembly on
all radio eq. installed, have the elev and rud in the tail also
glad not to have the retracts in.( some other model will evwntually get them LOL
)the wood was straight but the fuse sides were brownish and very hard
weighted the same as lite ply
should be ready to cover tomorrownight
there used to be a box at bottom to send pics can`t find it anymore
Old 01-03-2005, 10:51 AM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

What fuel tanks are you guys using?

It looks like the one that tower recommends will not fit without too much cutting on F2. I don't have the fuse in front of me but it looks like the opening is 4 5\8 x 2 7\8 and the tank is 4 3\4 x 2 1\2

It looks like the Sullivan 10 oz slant tank will fit at 4 3\8 x 2 1\2

Anyone have any luck with any of the others?
Old 01-03-2005, 11:09 AM
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

I haven't built the new kit, but built the original about 34 years ago. It had an Enya .45 in it, which was adequate at the time. Any of today's .45 2 cycle engines would be more than enough for it. Going much bigger adds needless weight and you will probably never need all that power. Mine started as a trike and got converted to a taildragger, which handled much better. I have to wonder why you want to fuss with retracts though. It's a small model to start with and you will be cramming alot of stuff into a small space, adding to the wing loading and complexity. More stuff to go wrong, more weight and it's also a little harder to make out what is going on in certain attitudes with the gear up, so why do it? Been there, done it, so I understand the novelty aspect of retracts, but it doesn't do a thing to make the model fly better. Oh yeah, add the risk of a gear jam running down the flight battery, unless you take up even more space and add more weight with another battery. Why?

Re. the flaps, mine was just coupled directly with the elevator, but I would make them separate this time around, use a mix and throw it onto a switch or flight mode to allow you to use them coupled, ala the way a CL stunter flies, or decouple them for landing, spoilers crow etc. Should work well on that model. It's a great flying little airplane and I will probably do another one someday.
Old 01-03-2005, 02:56 PM
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skypupmut
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

the slant tank 10 oz is too tight
installed a 6 oz I had will see if flight time too short with FX 46
mine is ready to cover right now
I cut my cowl in 2 top and bottom, easyer to work on engine if need be
and easy to fit muffler as well, been doing that for a while now I like it, not much work to do
but worth itran out of glue on week end so it slowed me down LOL ( time for a brew )
Old 01-03-2005, 03:57 PM
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jimcork1
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

I started the fuse and was looking at the F1 firewall. I decided to make a new firewall because I don't like the way it is joined with F1T so close to the blind nuts. After making a new one,, I thought, (shame on me) I could just drill the holes as per the kit F1. But,, guess what,, the holes were not mated to have the engine centered on the firewall. Perhaps this is to compensate for the right thrust built into the kit. ( I will not add the right thrust, I prefer to use right rudder on t/o and have a straight bird.).

But I looked at F1 more closely,, and as other parts in the kit,, F1 is not square. dah,,,, Glad I made a new one. Now I will check all bulkheads for square prior to assembly. Perhaps I am too picky and all the out of square would be magic and end up with a light straight plane. But,, I guess I will just have to make all the parts fit. []
Old 01-03-2005, 10:32 PM
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skypupmut
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Welcome to the mod group LOL
I tought about removing the side thrust but left it alone
I made holes in the top rear sheet and the fuse sides to make it lighter
also groung off some light ply in the formers
I am spending some extra time sanding,
it weights under 5 pounds complete without the covering
cant post a pic, does anybody know how ???

Jean
Old 01-04-2005, 12:50 PM
  #24  
RWLEWIS-SR
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Hi guys, I just thought I would make a few comments on the Nobler that I built, see photo above submitted by my son. The retracts were a bad idea, they had to be straightened after even a good landing and were located so far back that the plane had a tendency to nose over on the ground. I reinforced the bottom of the belly pan with light ply, drilled an tapped the wood and installed aluminum 40 size gear, with the wheels approx even with the leading edge of the wing. I intitially installed flaps, but later removed the servo and fixed them in place, because I did not use them. This plane looks good in the air. Mine loved to snap, but would drop a wing if just a little slow on landing, this led to the dimise of mine during a dead stick event. Hope this helps someone.
Old 01-09-2005, 12:55 PM
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jimcork1
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Default RE: R/C Nobler Topflite Gold Edition

Thanks for the info on the gear. Dah,, I still have the retracts. I will at least give it one chance to rip off on landing before I go to fixed.

Could not help notice you are from De Quincy!.. I have family in DeRidder. Havent seen them in 15 years or so. I guess Slidell is just too far to make it.


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