TopShelf

My Feedback: (4)

This is kind of a tip and kind of a question.

I recently needed a little more power out of my puny Hobbico 90 starter. So, I thought, gee I could hook two gel cells up in series and run my starter at 24 volts. It accomplished what I needed but with some obvious drawbacks: 1) my starter won't last as long if I do this on a regular basis and 2) if my engine is hydrolocked, I have a greater chance ruining it.

My intent is to only use 24 volts when it's cold or with a new tight engine. I made up a special adaptor so that I can use it only when needed.

Anybody else have more experience useing 24 volts?

Kent

Miniair

My Feedback: (1)

What you're going to do is burn out the windings in the motor, especially if you're putting a heavy load on it.

Rather than use 24V just get the engine wet - not soaking wet - flooded doesn't work and it should spin over. If you're using an aluminum nose cone you can get the starter spinning first then apply it to the nose. Also make sure your prop is backed up to the reverse side of the compression stroke. If your battery is any good it should turn the engine over unless you're trying to turn a large gas engine over then your best bet would be to get a 12/24V starter. Sullivan makes a good one at a reasonable price

TopShelf

My Feedback: (4)

Miniair,

I realize 24 V is not the best long term solution but I have tried everything else that you recommended and just couldn't get the engine to turn over. None of the hobby shops in my area had a sufficient starter in stock so 24V was a good quick solution. I have the Sullivan Dynatron on my Christmas list.

Kent

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

I have used the Dynatron starter on 24 volts and it is really powerful. However, I have also have had trouble with the contacts sticking on the built in switch. The switch seems to be the weak point.
Ken

Miniair

My Feedback: (1)

Never had a problem with mine but I do spray the switch regularly with WD-40 to help keep it clean and WD-40 helps keep the contacts and the switch itself clean. My starter is over 4 years old and never a problem.

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Jim, I'll try the WD-40.
Ken

extraflight

My Feedback: (4)

I have bent a saito 180 crank using a 24v starter when the engine got hydrolocked

dhal22

i have a moki 2.10 that no longer flip starts. i had a club member offer his hobbico 180 starter once that was wired to 24 volts, it worked fine. he says he has used it for a 50 cc gas engine for a long time with no problems. i now alternate my hobbico 180 between 12 and 24 volts depending on what size of engine i'm starting. the cost of a starter is minimal should it eventually burn out.

david

EloyM

My Feedback: (194)

Sometimes 12V is not enough, but 24V seems a bit extreme. I solved it with 18V - three 6V batteries in series. It perks up the starter just enough; on 24V most starters get a little scary.
Charging the 18V battery can be a problem. I use a 6V charger and charge each battery individually. Luck! - Eloy

jaka

Hi!
Why use a heavy lead battery when there is 14,4V or 18V Lipo cells which weigh much less and punch out much more energy!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The Dynatron starter works very well on 24volts. You can get A couple of 12 volt jell cells free if you ask real nice at any of the companies that replace the safty lights in buildings, they have to replace them often in Hospitals and they usually just toss them. Jaka, Lipo cells cost A bunch and most of us have 12 volt chargers already. I have used the large starters with the Lipo batteries and like them A lot, I just can't see spending all that money just to start an engine.

42etus

My Feedback: (2)

I use this:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL396&P=ML

and power it with 3 of these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDNY1&P=7

That gives about 24 volts. It's run fine for 5 years now. The best part is it's cordless and not tethered to a field box or a big (heavy) battery.
Paul

dhal22

nice. any pictures of the assembly?

david

42etus

My Feedback: (2)

I'll try to get some up later today
Paul

Deadeye

I've used 24 volt exclusivly for the last 3 years. I needed something strong enough to turn over my 45cc Homelite conversion. I use the Dynatron, and for juice, I use two of the sealed acid lead cells used in computer battery backups. They are small, light, and 7 Ah. Works great, and I can still use my 12 volt power panel.

Charge them every other week during heavy summer flying.

42etus

My Feedback: (2)

Here ya go.

Ken Currell

I made a starter pack using 8 Makita Lithium Ion cells.
It's a 2p 4s 14.4 (nominal) pack and a Kavan geared starter will start a Fuji 42 gas engine with ease and it is nice and light too.
The Makita cells are rated at 1500 ma and weigh about 42 grams each.
Charge them the same as a Lipo (4.2 volts / cell) and use a balancer too.

They are very rugged and I have had them work even with dents in the metal case.

huntermax3030

My Feedback: (3)

42etus, what do you use to charge your rig...I like it!

42etus

My Feedback: (2)

I use a Triton charger. It'll charge up to 24 cells, Nicd or Nimh.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMAJ0&P=ML

Paul

dhal22

paul, that is nice. well done. i will copy that design.

thx

MasterAlex

Here's another thread I have saved here at RCU that deals with the topic of cordless starters. There may be some additional information for you guys looking to max the power on your starters. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8019362/tm.htm]Link[/link]