nashtm

Hi

While fabricating a muffler I got a number of my Dremel gringing wheels "clogged" with aluminium - any way of getting them clean ??[]

LesUyeda

An exacto knife and LOTS of patience.

Les

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Dip the wheel into Crisco and use it as a lube while you are grinding it will clean it right out. [sm=idea.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

Bill Teller

Tryrunning them against some conctete or an old grinding wheel alum when heated expands more than the wheel under it lots of it will come loose.

Stew99

Dremel sells a dressing stone (#415) for cleaning and reshaping their grinding bits. It works very well and will last forever. The grinding bits themselves eventually get worn down to the point where they must be replaced.

higheronnitro

I don't want to sound like an old nag but grinding aluminum has its own set of hazards. As an apprentice I was told not to grind aluminum as the heat can cause the trapped particles to expand, this can cause the grinding wheel to fracture / explode.
Below is also another heads up for those doing a lot of metalwork..

Fireball from Aluminum Grinding Dust

http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm

Ed Smith

Absolutely, as you point out, aluminum should not be ground with a grinding wheel. Use the carbide Bits and wear safety glasses!

Ed S

crook

LOL................[X(]

nashtm

Hi

thanks - who would have thought something like that could happen !![X(]

Rodney

If you can find an old pair of crepe soled shoes, try using them. Holding the crepe soles against the wheel will remove lots of the aluminum of course at the sacrifice of the shoes.

ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

invest a few $$$ in the carbide bits and use WD-40 or kero when cutting alum, they last forever and cut MUCH quicker


dave

Flypaper 2

Local gas welding supplier sells grinding wheels made for aluminum.

Gdolboy3

From a person in the trade.... DO NOT GRIND ALUMINUM!!!! I know on the little dremel tool sized wheels it may not seem like a big deal, but learn which type of wheels can grind what materials. With larger hand grinders, bench grinders, ect... Grinding any Non-Ferous Metals is FATALLY Dangerous. The aluminum gets caught in the wheel, "loads" up the wheel, and throws it off balance. The end result is a grinding wheel that EXPLODES. The little dremel sized tools turn so fast, that balance is also an issue. Do a little research, and find out what wheels are made for what materials. If you'd like a general "wheel and material" list, contact me at [email protected]

flipstart

I am not sure about removing aluminum but for those that have all sorts of goo embedded in your various type wheels and bits-oven cleaner is the trick-old wood carving trick-the old style oven cleaner worked much better but the enviro stuff will work just slower-I must have 80-100 different bits-occasionally take the "bad ones" and throw in glass jar-with oven cleaner-soak for at least 3-4 hours and wash with warm water-good as new. The crepe sole trick works(better for sanding discs) but not like oven cleaner.

nashtm

Hi

Thanks to all for the input - its the dremel type wheels that have the alu on them - "It seemed like a good idea at the time !!!!!"[X(]
Will look at a set of Robardt fine carbide cutters at the LHS.

nashtm

Hi

Gdolboy3 : Could you post a general list of wheels and materials here , then more people can learn from my missadventure. I for one would like to see your list .

Gdolboy3

Generally....

Aluminum Oxide Wheels are used for carbon steel, alloy steels, high speed steels, malleable and wroght iron.
These wheels are marked usually to show densities and bonds to allow you to choose the best wheel to get the best finish on the right materials that you're grinding.

Silicon Carbide can be used for brass, soft bronze, and aluminum, and most other non ferrous materials.

The other thing I read in this thread was grinding on another grinding wheel. You're supposed to use a carborundum stone. This stone is made for "dressing" a grinding wheel that has become loaded, or needs to have the grooves, ect.. taken out of the wheel. One other thing, is you're also supposed to use a water solluable oil to cool and lubricate your grinding wheel. Always turn the wheel on before applying the coolant, and shut off the coolant before shutting off the wheel. Liquid can be soaked up be a static wheel and throw it out of balance, and once started there's a chance of the wheel separating. Using grease, or heavy lubes make it difficult for the wheel to "wring out" the fluid, thus causing it to be unbalanced.

I don't want to step on anyone's toes, or come off as a know it all. Most of what I've mentioned applies to Machine Shop practices, but the little dremel too and it's abrasive wheels are no different than the pedestal and precision grinders found garages all the way up to manufacturing facilities. I know I also have got away with grinding the wrong materials. Now that I know better, I precisely follow the rules. If that's not enough, check out some of the safety videos out there on grinding and seeing the wheels explode. Finally, (and I'll be off my soap box) with how tedious and sometimes how small the details are that we have to work on our aircraft, I'd much rather use the right tool for the job, then risk personal safety, or damage to the model I'm working on.

(FYI: a grinding wheel is supposed to wear out. I know everyone already knows this. But the normal wear is for fresh "stone" to expose itself to the work for normal removal of material. If you're wheel is loading up, then it's not sharpening itself and basically just "rubs" the material instead of cutting it efficiently.)

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

So I guess you don't like my crisco method[8D].

Gdolboy3

LOL, I'll tell ya what Crisco is TOP SHELF for..... Tapping Carbon Steel. Nothing works better than lard when tapping even the lowest carbon steels.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I'm sure you know trichorethelene is the best stuff in the world for tapping titanium then.[8D] Especially on 4-40 and smaller thds. [X(]You just can't tell anyone you used it. I agree you need to match the proper mineral with the material and thong-boy[X(] had the best answer, use a carbide burr. But I have been using fat in a can as a lube while jig grindining al for years.

Gdolboy3

Well, alotta times if something's working for you, stick with it. I know about the Trich. It's hard to get these days. Works great on alot of materials really. I think I use my little sanding drums more than anything when I need to move some metal in this hobby. Wear out kinda quick but they move the material pretty fast. Course, nine times out of ten, I take my stuff into the machine shop and handle business there.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Me too

emerycorp.com

Gdolboy3

How far are you from Norfolk Va?

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Around 3.5 hours I think. We are 1 hour east of Asheville right off I-40. If you go to the site there is a link for driving directions. Why do you have some work for me? Feel free to pm me with a ph #. I will give you a call tomorrow.

SamD

Regarding grinding wheel safety, you may want to read this: http://www.nortonabrasives.com/indus...afety/tips.asp Note, too, that the typical silicon carbide wheel (or "green stone" as it's commonly called in the trade" is used for grinding carbide as opposed to the black silicon carbide used for aluminum. Back, not so many years ago when I worked in a grind shop, we regularly ground aluminum plate- large pieces, say, 2' x 4', on large Mattison surface grinders. This was using flood, water soluble coolant which alleviated loading up of the wheels. Of course they needed to be dressed regularly which was done with a diamond dresser. The little Carborundum sticks were only used to dress a radius on the edge of a wheel or dress the root radius on a thread grinding wheel. Lots of info here, too:
http://www.ind.carborundumabrasives....e%20Basics.pdf