Building new nitro rc car
10-20-2002, 12:59 PM
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Building new nitro rc car
Newbie here,
i purchased a new mugen mtx-2 prospec kit, comes with novarossi engine. does anyone use lock tight on the screws? lock tight is listed in the required tool list but i see no mention of it in the directions. i have used some blue lock tight on my rc gasboats but this is a totally new venture. any other building tips for this car? plz help a newbie enjoy the hobby....
i purchased a new mugen mtx-2 prospec kit, comes with novarossi engine. does anyone use lock tight on the screws? lock tight is listed in the required tool list but i see no mention of it in the directions. i have used some blue lock tight on my rc gasboats but this is a totally new venture. any other building tips for this car? plz help a newbie enjoy the hobby....
10-22-2002, 04:14 PM
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MTX-2
Pazuby,
Great choice of car, I owned one for a while and would have nothing else for racing.
There are really no flaws or things to watch out for while building this car. Everything fits together very well and the manual is great as far as touring cars go.
Tha balls they are talking about above are in the arms on the front and rear of the car. They attach the front and rear uprights (bearing carriers) for the wheels.
They basically allow you to adjust and setup your camber, Toe in and so forth.
Im not really sure what a setup wheel is (above), but they may be talking about the Hudy Setup fixtures.
These will allow you to dial in exact settings for your toe and camber. If you eyeball it you can probably get it somewhat close but thats really not good enough for racing. Racing is very competitive and everything counts. If your just out in the street and local parking lot then it wotn matter much so you wont need the Hudy.
With a car like the pro spec, it just begs to be raced so you can get the Hudy at the Hudy website fairly cheap for the whole set.
As for loc-tite, make sure you get the blue HAND tighten locktite, it provides good holding and comes loose with a screwdiver fairly easily. Other types of loc-tite will not come out with a screw driver, you will need to heat the screws with a soldering iron or something of that nature if you use those kinds.
And yes loc-tite any metal to metal screws.
You have made an excellent choice on this car, the MUGEN MT-12 is by far one of the best engines in the touring class.
Drop in some oil under the glow plug before you break this thing in. Run a tank at 5 turns open in the top end needle, 2-1/2 turns on your bottem end. Never touch the midrange needle, NEVER.
When the tank is almost done shut it off, dont let the tank empty out while its running, leave a bit in there. Then remove your glow plug and make sure the top of the piston is at the bottom of the engine and let it cool. Then run a couple more tanks like this before you start putting around.
You will find that you wont have to lean the engine much to get good power. Maybe 4-1/2 on the top end and around 2 turns on the bottom. I would leave it on break in settings for the first gallon though, will make for long engine life.
Also if your engine doeas get stuck, piston stuck at the top of the sleeve, DONT FORCE IT. Get out your hairdryer and heat the head of the engine up for a few minutes. The piston will drop right out and roll over.
I have had several MT-12s and nova rossis, in my MTX-2 fire away with any questions and I will do my best to help
Goodluck
Dbow
Great choice of car, I owned one for a while and would have nothing else for racing.
There are really no flaws or things to watch out for while building this car. Everything fits together very well and the manual is great as far as touring cars go.
Tha balls they are talking about above are in the arms on the front and rear of the car. They attach the front and rear uprights (bearing carriers) for the wheels.
They basically allow you to adjust and setup your camber, Toe in and so forth.
Im not really sure what a setup wheel is (above), but they may be talking about the Hudy Setup fixtures.
These will allow you to dial in exact settings for your toe and camber. If you eyeball it you can probably get it somewhat close but thats really not good enough for racing. Racing is very competitive and everything counts. If your just out in the street and local parking lot then it wotn matter much so you wont need the Hudy.
With a car like the pro spec, it just begs to be raced so you can get the Hudy at the Hudy website fairly cheap for the whole set.
As for loc-tite, make sure you get the blue HAND tighten locktite, it provides good holding and comes loose with a screwdiver fairly easily. Other types of loc-tite will not come out with a screw driver, you will need to heat the screws with a soldering iron or something of that nature if you use those kinds.
And yes loc-tite any metal to metal screws.
You have made an excellent choice on this car, the MUGEN MT-12 is by far one of the best engines in the touring class.
Drop in some oil under the glow plug before you break this thing in. Run a tank at 5 turns open in the top end needle, 2-1/2 turns on your bottem end. Never touch the midrange needle, NEVER.
When the tank is almost done shut it off, dont let the tank empty out while its running, leave a bit in there. Then remove your glow plug and make sure the top of the piston is at the bottom of the engine and let it cool. Then run a couple more tanks like this before you start putting around.
You will find that you wont have to lean the engine much to get good power. Maybe 4-1/2 on the top end and around 2 turns on the bottom. I would leave it on break in settings for the first gallon though, will make for long engine life.
Also if your engine doeas get stuck, piston stuck at the top of the sleeve, DONT FORCE IT. Get out your hairdryer and heat the head of the engine up for a few minutes. The piston will drop right out and roll over.
I have had several MT-12s and nova rossis, in my MTX-2 fire away with any questions and I will do my best to help
Goodluck
Dbow
10-22-2002, 06:57 PM
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Building new nitro rc car
thanks fro the info dbow! i will be racing this puppy so hudy i will get. the local shop has huddy pieces but not whole kit. are there particular pieces i just need or should i get the whole hudy kit?
10-22-2002, 09:40 PM
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Hudy setup
When I started racing you were considerd lucky to get a hold of just a set of the Hudy fixtures. I had the droop blocks for setting up and down travel and the fixtures.
I think I paid about a $130 or so for the set. You will also need a straight level surface to use the fixtures and Hudy does make a set-up board to go with these. They had one available when I started but it was to expensive in my opinion at the time. I bought a laminated shelf from home depot and put some feet on it and made it into my setup board.
Nowadays you can get everything you need in one package.
The Touring car package includes the setup board, Fixtures, droop gauges and the ride height gauge.
And yes I would suggest getting the whole package.
I think the package runs for about $130 or so on the website for everything you need.
I dont have the URL in my head right off but if you cant find it, let me know.
Dbow
I think I paid about a $130 or so for the set. You will also need a straight level surface to use the fixtures and Hudy does make a set-up board to go with these. They had one available when I started but it was to expensive in my opinion at the time. I bought a laminated shelf from home depot and put some feet on it and made it into my setup board.
Nowadays you can get everything you need in one package.
The Touring car package includes the setup board, Fixtures, droop gauges and the ride height gauge.
And yes I would suggest getting the whole package.
I think the package runs for about $130 or so on the website for everything you need.
I dont have the URL in my head right off but if you cant find it, let me know.
Dbow
09-16-2003, 11:34 AM
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RE: Building new nitro rc car
HEy i was just wondering what you guys thought about what the best hop ups for the mtx-2 is what makes it go faster handle better etc.?
09-16-2003, 12:23 PM
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RE: Building new nitro rc car
To be real honest the MTX-2 Prospec needs nothing, its a complete car and ready to race.
If you have the original version of the MTX-2, its my opinion that it does not need anything either.
If you feel like you must add on some parts, compare the pro spec with the original version and see if anythings there that you like.
Dbow
If you have the original version of the MTX-2, its my opinion that it does not need anything either.
If you feel like you must add on some parts, compare the pro spec with the original version and see if anythings there that you like.
Dbow
09-18-2003, 01:08 PM
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RE: Building new nitro rc car
I just got my mtx-2 yesterday and the thing doesn't have enough back pressure to pressurize the tank. the only thing that i can see wrong with it is that on the pipe(a rex) the tips where the exaust comes out is busted off. i did get it running but it wouldn't stay running unless i was blowing on the pressure line. another thing is when i had it running(for the 10 sec. it was) when i pulled the throttle it died instantly. i can't figure it out any help would be welcome.
09-18-2003, 06:55 PM
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RE: Building new nitro rc car
Sounds like you have an airleak somewhere.
The busted stinger should not really effect the pressure, I have run pipes with holes in the bottom of them (from scraping the ground) and had no fuel pressure problems.
I would check the tank to make sure it does not have a leak. Remove the tank, Plug it up and submerge it in water and blow some air into it to see if it leaks.
Check the engine to ensure that the backplate, head, carb , glow plug etc are all seated properly and tight. Check the header and such in the same fashion.
I would also replace the fuel line and check the settings on the carb.
Mt-12 is about 4-1/2 turns on the top end and 2 to 2-1/2 on the bottom end.
If all this does not solve the problem you may have a compression problem with the engine.
Dbow
The busted stinger should not really effect the pressure, I have run pipes with holes in the bottom of them (from scraping the ground) and had no fuel pressure problems.
I would check the tank to make sure it does not have a leak. Remove the tank, Plug it up and submerge it in water and blow some air into it to see if it leaks.
Check the engine to ensure that the backplate, head, carb , glow plug etc are all seated properly and tight. Check the header and such in the same fashion.
I would also replace the fuel line and check the settings on the carb.
Mt-12 is about 4-1/2 turns on the top end and 2 to 2-1/2 on the bottom end.
If all this does not solve the problem you may have a compression problem with the engine.
Dbow
09-19-2003, 04:52 PM
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RE: Building new nitro rc car
dbow, you sount like a vet racer, but the last time I removed the plug on a hot engine, it was a 1 month wait for a new head button. the best way is to , when it is cool, get it to tdc and mark the engine and wlywheel. then when cooling it, make sure the marks are opposite each other.
09-20-2003, 11:43 PM
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RE: Building new nitro rc car
Well it turns out that i have a cracked carb body by the high end needle what do you think would be the best epoxy/sealer to fix this problem?
