JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Hi all!

A couple weeks ago I picked up a monster ARF from [link=http://www.toc1.com/]AVIATION MODELS[/link] I have finally got my pictures edited and have the time to start the build thread! Here are the specs of this bad boy:

Wingspan: 129"
Length: 114.5"
Flying Weight: 44lbs
Wing Area: 3247sq.in.
Engine Size: 150cc-200cc
Includes 6" aluminum spinner, fuel tank, pull-pull, control arms, SAE nut and bolts, giant aluminum servo arms, axles, cockpit floor, and much more.
CANISTER READY, REMOVEABLE RUDDER, COWL RING MOUNT,

Now, onto the initial pictures!

We have the Cowl and Spinner, Tail feathers, Hardware, Landing gear, stab and wing tubes, and the monsterous hatch that lets you get to everthing. And, look at the little box it comes in[8D]

First thoughts... its big, covering is great, built well, assembly will go fast, and reports are it flies very well.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Here is the canopy, Opening on the fuse with the hatch off, a monsterous Seiko PS-050 rudder servo, this thing is a beast, and for the price, is much easier to swallow than the 3-8611's and a matchbox I was going to put in there, and check out the power it has! Weighs 10 oz and has 1800 oz-in of torque at 12 volts.

They can be had from [link=http://www.troybuiltmodels.com]Troy Built Models[/link] Tell them you seen it here!

You can see from the front shot, that they already have a chamber for cans if you wanted to run them.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

I started off hinging, here are the elevators, put some oil on the hinge in the center to keep the epoxy from sticking it up, and glue them together, these large plastic hinges make for a simple and free moving installation.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Then I hinged the wings... Same method, fast, easy and smooth.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

And then the rudder, the plane comes with 2 piece rudder hinges and a pin so those with smaller trailers can take the rudder off for transport. I put the hinges on the rod, oiled and epoxied them, then put them into the rudder, then epoxied the other half, and put it on the plane. One thing I should note, I did this all in one step with 5 min epoxy, instead of letting it cure into the elevator/aileron/rudder itself, I assembled the whole unit to make sure they were all centered, then taped the surface centered and let it cure. Worked flawlessly.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

And since the only thing I have for the plane is the rudder servo so far, (everything else is in transit from the brown truck) I mounted the big seiko. I just centered it up on the existing servo tray, and dremeled out a space between the supports, and screwed it down.

Troy Built also sells the 5" arm, which is a must and screws to the servo's control horns.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Ooohhh, look what just showed up! I put the seiko in there so you can see the size of it, here we have 8-8611's for the ailerons and elevators, and 4 matchboxes, All from the great people at [link=http://www.donalds-hobby.com]Donalds-Hobby[/link]

And, you cant fly reliably or as long without a set of the best LiIons made! [link=http://www.fromeco.org]FROMECO[/link] One of the 4800 packs is dedicated to the seiko servo, then one 4800 per JR RX, and the final pack for the Engine.

bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

what motor are you going to use have a 37.5 yak Rich

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Hi Rich,
Im putting a DA150 in this bird, as Im a big DA fan, and would use nothing less. It would be a perfect choice for your model as well.

bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

thanks for the info I read more and more about DA150 sounds like the way to go look forword to your thread Rich

mu2driver

My Feedback: (15)

Hey John where did you get the sticker? I need some...know where I may get them ?

cbk07

My Feedback: (64)

John, if it is not too late, move that Seiko forward and keep everything including the motor as forward as possible as it builds tailheavy. Also, you will want to beef up the mount for the Seiko as between the power of the servo and size of the rudder, the stock tray will get torn apart. The DA flies this plane sweet. Also, why only 8 8611's? Are you leaving one out of the wings or stabs? Just curious. My buddy flies his with only one per stab half and it seems to work fine. Also balances a little better. Looking good. These are one fun airplane!!!! Craig

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Darcy, that came from Fromeco.

Craig, I cant see moving the servo forward another inch making enough of a difference for the amount of trouble. Ill beef up the existing mount with hardwood before final install. Im putting 2 per wing, 2 per stab.

DENNIS C

My Feedback: (99)

Looks like atleast 3" if you ask me.....but nobody did

torquenlow

John, I dont think that two per wing is going to be enough. That is a huge Ail and from the ones I have flown you will need all 3. Keep everything as far forward as possible when using the 150cc class of engines. Have fun
Garrett Morrison

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Hi Garrett,
Ive heard from another person using two per aileron and they said it worked fine, and Ive known some people using two on the 3.3m one as well. I thank you for the reply!

Bruce Rolfe

My Feedback: (37)

John,
Just what you need, another 40% YAK. You still got the Comp Arf?
Bruce

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

subscribing to the thread. Nice build thread John. Will give me good insight to when I eventually build my first 40%ish

matt

p.s. Hi Garrett, glad to see you on the forums here, look forward to seeing you around

T. Bob

My Feedback: (9)

I have never seen such a large built up wing.
Is their any fear of wing failure?

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Hi Bruce, yep, still got the 3.3m Yak 55.

They have been flying these for a while now, there should not be any issues with the wing.

why_fly_high

My Feedback: (19)

John,

Take the advice on the servo. My buddy's with a 3W 150 and cans with the Seiko against the wing tube and all the batteries in the nose was still tail heavy. That was with a carbon prop and aluminum spinner.

Dan

joel mccollum

While I was working on the control linkage for the %40 Yak elevators. I noticed that if I put the control linkage on the center line of the hinge line that you can hardly get it to 45 degree of deflection before the linkage hits the stab. How are you getting more deflection then that by locating it of the center line some or what. It's always been stressed that you should locate off the center line of hinge joint in almost everything I have built to keep the geometry right .

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

One thing I noticed in this manual is it says to put the surface flat on the table and put the linkage into the surface at an angle. That must be the difference? Ill be doing that part tomorrow as I start setting up the linkages and mounting the servo's

zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

Pictures John, Pictures ..............

cbk07

My Feedback: (64)

Joel, I posted a couple of pics of my setup in your thread. Mine are not on the hingeline. You may be able to use longer bolts to resolve your problem.

Here are a couple of pics showing the huge size difference between the 37 1/2% and 40%. The 37.5% hatch is sitting on the 40% fuse.