windsurfer

My Feedback: (37)

Hi guys,

From scanning the previous posts I came up with 4 FLAT clear coat choices which is supposed to hold up against hot glow fuel and not to yellow at the same time:

(1) Chevron dead flat clear coat in spray can,
(2) Minwax satin acrylic water soluble polyester (they say it doesn't yellow, but does it hold up against glow fuel?),
(3) Nelson flat clear coat,
(4) Butrate clear spray (I don't think this comes in flat).

So what do you think? What is your favorite solution?

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

1. I saw someone on RCU report Chevron Dead Flat Clear is really more of a semi-gloss. You'd have to do a search for it to check on it. Maybe someone else can report.
2. Minwax water based Polycryllic isn't glow fuel proof - is that the product you refer to??
3. Nelson clear with the cross linker is fuel proof.
4. Butyrate clear dope when brushed comes out in a low gloss or semi gloss. When sprayed, it can come out with more of an egg shell finish. Aerogloss dope is an acetate based dope with a fuel proofer, there are other brands which are butyrate. Nitrate dope isn't glow fuel proof.

windsurfer

My Feedback: (37)

Thank you, Thud-driver.
Yes, I was referrring to Polycrylic.
The consensus I am getting from the other forums is that Nelson's clear is a sure winner.

Butrate dope is cheap and also fuel proof.
But, does it yellow over time?
Can it go over exterior latex paint or acylic enamel paint?

Tommy Meisel

Butyrate goes over butyrate very well. It pretty much does NOT go over anything else. Nor anything over it either. Nitrate dope will accept many other finishes over it, but butyrate does not.

How much fuel proofing do you need? Quite a few of the water based clear polyurethanes are fuel proof insomuch as you can quickly wipe off a spill without any damage, but if you try to scrub the plane with steel wool soaked in fuel, well yeah, it is not fuel proof. All things are relative.

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

If you go the butyrate route, its like Tommy says, don't try to use it with anything else and, then, you don't need to clear coat. The butyrate colors come out the same as the clear. Don't forget about the blushing with high humidity and pulling loose in the corners if you get it too wet problems. Used it for years, glad I don't anymore.

The three water based polyurethanes I've tried all etch or turn into a gooey mess if fuel or exhaust residue hit them for any length of time. Others report success with some very specific products, but be sure you get the exact label name as there are similar sounding ones that don't work. The oil based poly's do yellow, the water based ones don't.

Of the choices you listed, I'd go with Nelson.

John M. Bigelow

I have used the minwax polycyric water type on sanded blue foam
2 coats and last coat tackie with 1/2lb glass very strong. almost a spar. but 2 coats plain very good protection. CU

Steve Collins

My Feedback: (8)

Automotive Clear is fuelproof(not the cheapstuff from spray cans) and can be flattened by the addition of a flattening agent that you can buy at any automotive paint supply store. Automotive clearcoats are the only ones, in my experience, that do not yellow with exposure to UV rays from the sun.

A friend and I just finished clearcoating my Jet Model Products T-33 this weekend. It required a flat finish. I used Dupont Nason Clearcoat, thinned 100% with medium reducer and added 50%(by volume) flattener to it. It will never yellow no matter how long it is exposed to sunlight. All of the jet guys use automotive clearcoats.

Chevron Perfect clear is fuelproof but yellows pretty badly.

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

The Nelson flat clear doesn't stick worth a hoot! Blue, low tack masking tape will pull it right off. It's got more of a satin finish than flat. If you want to send me a small painted panel, I will clear coat it for you and send it back to you for testing. I'll stick a picture of my new Jug on here for you to study. Notice the satiny finish.

Nickrc3

My Feedback: (6)

Steve, I too have used the Nason clearcoats over the years and found the product to be an outstanding substitute for the expensive PPG counterparts. In South Florida, $55.00 buys 1 gallon of clear and 1 quart of hardner. That's great value!

I don't thin mine with reducer though, and don't believe the label states one must reduce it. You simply add the activator (hardner), stir, strain and spray. What results have you achieved will the thinned clearcoat?

Nick

Steve Collins

My Feedback: (8)

The reducer(thinner) allows a little more time before the clearcoat starts to cure which allows the clearcoat to level out a little better. Also it is easier to get thin, light coats of clear.

CoosBayLumber

My Feedback: (1)

Not available here.

In the smog counties of Sou. Calif, your cannot get but a few things which mix with acrylic reducer. Most often now the auot paint places are substituting clear Urethane. It is two part, ready for spraying, and dries in about 30 minutes to selected appearance of very glossy, clear, satin, etc. It is very mean and stands up to numerous substances. It will go over water colored paint on any hard surface and keep intact. Costs about $35 for a quart.


Wm.

linclogs

Sig makes "Flat Coat" which is a clear dope that's used as a final coat over butyrate to give a totally flat finish. Works great.