gadix

My Feedback: (2)

hi guys
i just got my new/old 2.4 from Gary last week

it is the one with the nickle coating and with the none advanced auto ignition,(the sensor is mounted on fix point on th Teflon ring!!!)

1. i use...used the DU BRO !QUOT!red!QUOT! fueling connection - this such a bad thing!!! i have 6 of them both gas and nitro and none of them is reliable!! switched to a direct fueling line...

2. used 100:1 gasil ratio!!!!!!!!!!! this by the manual but is'nt it too low??? should be 2% usually on any 2T gas engine??

3. after startup...over 20 min of trying to start.... engine worked fine but got very hot...? what hot.. how hot... that hot that i couldn't touch with my hand!!! both sides top and bottom..? is this normal???

guys,
can you please give me a 1-6 steps check list on how tp setup and what to use with this engine...
i'm so upset...each time going out to the field and having this kind of issues...(and than the wife call...blah...blah..blah..when r u coming back home...blah...blah... which just make more mad....[:@])

any help will be appreciated.

happy new year

BB
Gadi

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I believe that over 220F is too hot (105 C). Gassers run hot and even when it's running right you won't be able to touch it. I'd richen it up more until it's broken in. The oil mixture will be ok if there is plenty of fuel going through the engine even though I believe that is not the best oil for break in.

I'd set the needles to factory defaults and start from there. Then with a freshly started and cool engine warm it up 30 seconds. Run it to full throttle. Then lean the high end needle until is does not gain any more RPM. Then back it off at least a 1/4 turn. The low end should be set for a good transition. Start rich and keep leaning until the engine dies or hesitates. then richen it up a little. Do not run your engine at wide open throttle for long periods of time until you are sure it is set right. Also don't run it on the ground for extended periods of time, it needs to be in the plane and flying to get proper cooling.

Lastly and most important, get a friend that knows gas engines to help you. That's the smartest thing anyone can do.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The oil mix should be at 80-1 with a good synthetic. That's what's stated in all the other Brison manuals that I have. It's also the mix that I've been using for a few years now with great success.

Temps at 200 to 325 will not hurt the engine, but temps at 250 and below are a lot better. At 375 and up damage will likely start to occur to the bearings and the plug wire. You may not notice it for quite some time, but it will have happened. There is no effective way to measure engine temps unless to have thermocouples attached to the head as close to the base of the plugs as possible, and are down loading that information or have a live telemetry system. Fin mounted thermocouples are next to useless. Temp guns are not all that accurate due to aiming point issues, and as soon as the engine is idled the temp drops extremely rapidly.

Start by choking the engine, turn on the ignition, set the throttle trim to high, place the throttle stick in the max low position, and flip the prop until the engine "pops" once. After the engine quits, open the choke, leave the throttle stick at max low with the idle trim at high and flip the prop another 5 to 7 times. It should start right up if the needles are even close. Make sure the plane is secure through all this!!!!!!!!!!

Pat

A couple of after thoughts here;

Tune the engine to run from the first run like you would want it to run a year from now. The Brisons' don't require being babied like some others out there.

Second, DO NOT run the engine at high rpm for long periods on the ground. By long periods I mean for more than a minute or two, MAX!! It should not be necessary unless you just want to "hear the music". High rpm is where the most heat is generated. Idle rpm levels can be run for considerably longer with no fear of damage. Let the engine cool between ground runs for at least 15 to 30 minutes with good ventilation. All ground testing should be done with the cowl removed for better cooling.

PR

gadix

My Feedback: (2)

no need break in!!
Gary all ready did it for me: 1660rpm/20X8 Zinger

maybe i need to setup the carb hi/low, this also determent the fuel/air mixture meaning-> it will affect the amount of gas going into the engine this way will effect the TEMP as well!?

any way, pat & Joe,
i will to a test according to your recommendations:
i'll take 3 cans of 1000cc gas, each one with a different mixture, 64;80&100:1 ratio
and see what is the best performance regarding temp,rpm and prop
i will use a thermocouple temp sensor.

i will keep u posted naturally

BB
gadi

marzo91

My Feedback: (57)

Step 1. Turn the cell phone OFF. Steps 2 -6 will then be a piece of cake!

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Yes keep the mixture on the rich side to keep the engine temp's down and avoid engine damage (and keep run times to less than a minute or so). When it's really rich it makes the 4-stroking sound which is a lower pitch sound. It also sounds like the engine is missing explosions in the cylinder (because it is). Listen for this sound and you know you are in the rich region. Don't go too far from this sound on the needles to stay near the rich region. It should start to 2-stroke when it enters the lean region of operation (2-stroke operation is a higher pitch sound that does not sound like it's missing explosions in the cylinder). Good luck with tuning.