Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I just started using latex. So far, so good. What I need to know is:

How long does the paint need to
"cure/dry" before it can be
clearcoated with clear fuelproof
dope?

TIA

flyingcubby

My Feedback: (35)

Water base latex is considered fuel proof. If infact you wish to clearcoat I would say give it 24 - 36 hours in a warm area. I have used latex on both glow and gas without problems with out the use of a clearcoat.

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

The latex paint gets more durable with age, up to a point. Within about a month it is practically indestructable. I have actually used paint thinner on my P47 to remove oil/ residue from the exhaust with out damaging the paint. A clearcoat is usually not required, but if using a high nitro fuel it is advisable.

Vince

CaptainHook

My Feedback: (80)

I agree with Vince. I have painted many warbirds using latex paint deluted with about 15% water. It dries extremely fast. Test the clear coat if you wish to use it before you apply it to your model.

Mark Hansen

How are you applying the latex - spay gun, spray can (is it available, brush? Just glassed a plane using the Minwax polycrylic watrer base and would like to get a good finish. Any ideas? Thanks Mark

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

For me, the best method is spraying. I use a automotive touch-up gun with as little air pressure as possible, usually 15-20 psi.

Vince

kevin mcgrath

My Feedback: (1)

Vince....Im just starting to spray latex .I have a decent compressor and im shopping for a detail gun.Will a cheap chinese knock off get the job done or is this an area where its worth spending some money.If so do you have any specific reccomendations?
You mentioned you are using about 20# pressure,but how much are you thinning?Using H2o,or?
Any technique comments?
Can a good airbrush handle latex?
I have the MAN article,but Im interested in your opinions.

Thanks.......

turbines

My Feedback: (9)

I have the Badger model #400 touch up gun. It works very well and cleans up easier than the Chinese unit that I started with. The seals in the Badger are made of nylon instead of leather or some kind of fiber. The nylon will not get hard and leak like the Chinese guns will.
Another good gun to look into is a new touch up gun by Porter Cable! This gun is very well made just like the rest of Porter Cable's products. It is the type of gun with the bottle on top and has all the adjustments that you will need. It's less expensive than the Badger gun. I think the retail for the badger is $80 and the Porter C is $59. Check the Porter Cable out at Lowes, at least that's where I saw it for sale. If didn't already have the
Badger I would surely buy the Porter C.
I checked the Porter Cable web site and they don't have a picture of the spray gun, but it is mentioned in a news release on their site. The model # is PSH2

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

Check the URL above on the MAN article, it's full of usefull tips.

Any spray gun will work fine, including the cheap Chinese knockoffs at Harbour Freight. I use a Binks automotive touch-up gun, only because it is left over from my Camaro restoration days.

I was using windshield washer fluid to thin the paint about 50%, then switched to distilled water. Really you experiment with the amount of water. Set your air pressure to about 20psi and test spray. If it is not spraying very well, then thin it a little more. You will get to the point to where you can tell by looking at the thinned paint if it will spary properly. It dries really fast, and a second coat can be applied almost immediatly. Along areas where you have a color transition, I had the spray gun in one hand and a heat gun in the other. I would spray a little then dry it with the heat gun. It is really easy to get used to using this paint. You raelly have to work on it to get it to run, and if it does, it's not a big thing. Just wipe it up with a wet rag, and spray again.

Vince

Mark Hansen

It seems I have read thousands of questions and responses concerning these issues and I'm still trying to boil it all down. I've got a couple of planes waiting for a finish and we're all shaking our heads. Can someone tell me if I have this right for glow fuel engines -
1.Krylon no - Original brand rustoleum yes except metallics and clear
2. Minwax plycrylic poly is great for applying light weight fibergalss but is not glow fuel proof.
3. This thread says latex is OKAY - for glow - without a clear sealer - ( seems like I read definately not elsewhere)
4. The MAN article is great but I don't think addresses the glow fuel issue.
5. Clear polyurathane doesn't work over latex
6. Always use a primer no matter what's underneath
7. Brush is fair and spay is the way to go - and don't use a small badger

Thanks for any insight. I could test all these alternatives - but I know you guys have all done it before and there are probably many out there as confused as I am - Wish MAN or another mag would do a definitive "Do and Don't Do" article for all us fumblers. Thanks Mark

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

Clear polurethane over latex is a no!!!


That is certainly news to me, as that is exactly what I have done....works great.

Vince

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

This is my experience:
1) True.
2) True for applying light glass, but false, it is fuel proof.
3) I would use a sealer for glow because of nitro. See 2.
4) Its a good general source.
5) False.
6) Generally true.
7) True, but I dont know about using a badger.

I have found that Varathan as a sealer yellows over time, Min-Wax doesnt. Both are fuel proof, at least up to %10. I made test panels then placed them under my P-51 with a pitts muffler and ran 3 tanks of gas thru the ST.75. Let the test panels sit for 3 days without wiping them off. After I cleaned the panels they were fine.
Edwin
Edwin

Tx_RcFlyer

My Feedback: (7)

I read that you [B]should not use dope for fuel proofing[B].. You will end up with a gooie mess...