MOAJR

o I am covering a Citabria Pro with a white base Solartex.
- Should I also paint the base white and then paint the red stripes on (ie: on the wing) or only paint on the red stripes.
* I am concerned with peeling off the white base coat when masking for the red stripes........I suppose I will have to wait a day or so f
or the paint to cure before masking and painting the stripes.

o Clear coating the edges of the masking tape will leave an edge where the tape has been removed. How is this prevented or
removed?
- Is the edge removed or filled when the clear coat is applied?
- Don't do anything until after the final clear coat is applied to everything then rub-out the paint for a smooth final finish?

Thanks for your advise and suggestions.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I am by no means an expert. However I will try and give my opinion, I would aslo seek other opinions. First of all I think the Solartex and other tex's are great covering materials. I have always had a love/hate relationship with Monocoat that is more of a hate relationship of late.

-I would paint a light coat of white after cover. Let dry completely.
-Use HIGH QUALITY masking tape that releases easily. I use the blue stuff.
-Paint the red stripes on using light coats, just enough to cover.
-Some remove tape before paint dries, works ok if you are using latex. Fast dry sprays are a different story. Leave tape until paint is dry to avaoid a big mess!
-If you use cear coating to prevent paint creep then use a very light coat.
-I have had some success sanding the paint line with very fine wet sandpaper and then clear coating the entire airframe.
-Clear coating does help the paint line just a bit by smoothing it, but it will not elimate the paint line. I would not sand the entire painted plane.

_Build some test frames, cover and paint them to test the response of the paint you have chosen.

Hope this helps

JEB

Dr1Driver

Why not just use red Solartex for the stripes?

Dr.1

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

MOAJR

DR1, bps,CAMPY,

Thanks very much for all your feedback.

o Use Red Solartex for the stripes.
- I considered this, unfortunately, I only purchased the White Solartex. I will buy the Red and test to see if there is any
transparency in the red over the white. This certainly would save a lot of time.
* I am thinking of painting using both Red and White - is what I am leaning towards. It will add weight and , I think, both Red and
White Solarcoat surface will be/look more consistant in appearence.

o Using clearcoat when masking.
- I will take the advise to use just enough clear to seal the masked-line before painting the stripes; slightly wet-sand where the high
spots are and then clearcoat the entire part(s).

o The Paint.
I have experience using Krylon brand spray paint. I don't have any experience or knowledge using latex paints. I do like the
ease of cleaning up latex paint. Can Krylon Clear be sprayed over latex paint?

Thanks again for your mentoring.

MOAJR.

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

I only used Krylon one time; once was enough to find out that it is not glow fuel proof.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry about doing it this way, the file would not upload.

Painting with Latex


First, if you have not done so, I strongly recommend you read the article
by Roy Vallencourt on using latex paint.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp

I do disagree with Mr. Vallencourt in a couple of areas. These areas
of disagreement are based on my personal experience using latex.

1. I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart of latex paint PRIOR to any
diluting. The Flotrol retards the drying slightly and allows the paint
to level itself.

2. Use ONLY water for thinning the paint. My experience has shown
that using windshield washer fluid gives a slight tint to light colors.

3. My best results with latex have been between 25 psi and 30 psi.
Under 25 psi I don't get the coverage I would like and over 30 psi the
paint starts to have a "dimpled" appearance.

4. I have not had good luck using a heat gun to promote quicker drying.
I know of several people who have had good luck using this technique
though. You can try it and see if it works for you or not.

5. I strongly suggest and highly recommend the blue 3M brand of masking
tape. What you want is the "60 Day Safe Release". This can be
identified by a paper appearance to the tape and on the side of the
wrapping is an adhesive index. You want a 2 dot adhesive rating. The
2 dot adheres reasonably well, yet will not pull up even fresh underlying
paint.

6. Flat latex will take an average of 7 - 10 days to "cure". Semi gloss
and gloss latex take 14 - 21 days to cure. To see if the paint is cured,
press your finger firmly on a hard area of the plane (I use the cowl
area). If a fingerprint remains, the paint is not cured. The
fingerprint will disappear in a day or two.

7. Gasoline powered planes will be fine with the paint as is. Glow
engine powered planes need to be clear coated. I suggest waiting until
the latex is cured before clear coating.

For clear coating I suggest one or 2 sprayed coats of a water base
polyurethane. My personal experience has shown that it is fuel RESISTANT
to 10% nitro and various reports indicate no problems with 15% nitro.
By fuel resistant, I mean if you let the clear coat dry for a minimum
of a week before exposing it to fuel AND you clean your planes at the end
of the day,you should have no problems. If you let the residue sit
overnight on the plane, it will become sticky. If you want fuel proof,
use Ultracote or Lusterkote clear. Oil Base polyurethane is also fuel
proof, but it will start yellowing in about 6 - 8 months. The yellowing
is not that noticable on dark colors, but very noticeable on light colors.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

MOAJR-- how steady is your hand? Try painting them with a brush, using latex paint, WITHOUT masking. It's entirely possible, takes a little longer, BUT:

you don't have to worry about the paint bleeding under your masking tape (and it can happen even if you clearcoat the edge to seal it)

you don't have to worry about the raised edge along your mask line.

make a pattern for your stripes, or whatever pattern you choose, lay it on the covered plane, and very lightly pencil it onto the white cover (BTW, I wouldn't paint white what was already white). Then using a 1/4 inch flat camel hair brush, carefully start painting in the pattern outlines, just barely covering the pencil marks. Once that is done, use a larger brush where possible to fill in the rest of the pattern. You might need two coats in order to get a good streakless finish; then clearcoat with something fuelproof. I've been using LusterKote with great results. Here's two planes I've done this way. ALL the stripes and crosses on the DR-1 are freehand, no masking at all, and the checkerboard on the WACO, and the stripes (everything black) are also freehand. The DR-1 is covered in white Solartex, and the WACO is in yellow Solartex.

I did these planes this way because of the same things you said regarding bleeding under the mask and raised ridges. I have fairly severe carpal tunnel syndrome in both hands, but just took my time. I think the results speak for themselves.

MOAJR

Campy

I have saved a text copy of the MAN article "How To Paint With Latex" my Model Aviation "How To" folder.

This article is very interesting and informable. I will have to read it several times to fully understand the process and techniques.

Thank you very much for sending me the URL and for the additional advise and suggestions.

MOAJR

MOAJR

KHODGES

My free-hand painting technique, unfortunately no so steady, is not very good that is why I had not considered this very skillful method. This technique takes some practice and experience.

Thanks for those images of your finely painted aircrafts. Wonderful work!

MOAJR