WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

recently i used west systems, with the 206 hardner and got a lumpy finish. is this due to too much epoxy ? i rolled it several times with a foam roller. I tried the 209 hardner and it was way too slow, mabey thats my prob. help

thanks
dan

saramos

Hi Dan,

It sounds like you used too much epoxy. I too used West Systems epoxy on my TF Spitfire. The basic process I used was as follows.

I first gave the balsa a coat of Deft sanding sealer and a light sanding. This prevents the balsa from soaking up too much epoxy. I used .5 oz glass brushed down onto the surface with a drafting brush. This gets the glass to lay down with a slight static cling. I applied the epoxy with an acid brush, starting at the center of the area, working outward, to prevent wrinkles. You could use a roller if you wish. After applying the epoxy, I used a small plastic squeegie (either the type used for auto body work, or you can use those plastic dummy credit cards that come in the mail) to squeegie off as much as possible. This also presses the glass and epoxy well to the surface of the balsa. Next, I took a roll of toilet paper and rolled it across the surface to soak up even more epoxy, tearing off the wet toilet paper from the roll as I went. When done, the surface has an almost dry look to it with no significant shiny areas.

When doing it this way, after the epoxy cures, the surface has the texture from the fiberglass. To fill this texture, I used a high build sandable Auto primer from Duplicolor. I would spray on a coat, let it dry, then wet sand almost all of it off with 320 grit, being careful not to sand through the fiberglass. I would repeat this process until the texture was filled and the surface smooth. I found it took about 3 repeats to fill all the texture. Any left over low spots, such as small dings, I used a spot putty filler applied with a plastic card as a scraper. I then hit those spots again with primer and a sanding. Now the surface is reading for priming and adding any surface detail, then paint.

Scott

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I always used the brush and card method for glassing in the past. On my latest project, that I am glassing now, a Ziroli Zero, I am using the technique show on Bayou Boys website:
http://members.cox.net/1454s/BBRC/GLASSINGx.html
Cuts the work in half, seems like.

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

thanks for the great info

Shihtzutan

We each seem to have our own favorite method. I like thinning my epoxy to the consistency of milk. I like MEK for thinning, but you can also use denatured alcohol. Do not use MEK over balsa covered foam; it will soak through the wood and attack the foam! Pour and spread the epoxy using an old credit card. You can work fast this way and cover a lot of surface area. Drape the cloth over your surface and let the edges hang off. When it dries, there is actually very little epoxy holding down the fiberglass. WAtch for drips! Wipe up drips before they harden to make things easy for yourslef. If you see wrinkles, thin the epoxy some more. Make sure you use a credit card with a nice clean edge or you'll snag the cloth! Thinning the epoxy slows the drying time so let it dry overnight. Trim the edges, then rotate your surface and lay more cloth until all sides are eventually covered. Give yourself three of four days for this. Scuff the seams where ever the fiberglass overlaps and apply another thin coating of epoxy (you can use your finger). Fill the weave using primer like saramos does or you can use watered down lightweight spackel from your home improvement store (make a cream out of it and smear it in the weave with your hand). When dry, sand lightly and give a light coat of primer. This method tends to keep the weight down.

spitmad

Guys


Another easier method is to dope the 3/4 Oz cloth down first, this shrinks the glass cloth and helps prevent any wrinkles, dries quickly (especially with a heat gun ) makes trimming of edges very easy and is sandable, I then apply a layer of resin with a squeegy (credit card/spatular) to help fill the weave and leaving a hard surface to sand back with 80 gri. I then fill the weave with mix of dope and talc , this sands really easily and leaves a very smooth finish ready for the primer.

cheers

Alan