afterrun oil
#3
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RE: afterrun oil
OMG, this always stirs up a hornet's nest of controversy. IMHO, most procedures work very well. The most important aspect of an afterrun procedure is to diplace water from your engine. WD40 works great, is very portable and easy to use with the tiny straws. They make a tiny travel size I keep in my flightbox. FYI, WD stands for Water Displacer and the 40 means that it was their 40th iteration of the formula before they perfected it into the product you use today!
IMHO you should afterrun your engine every day you use it. It is just a good disipline to get into. May you have many years of trouble free power!
IMHO you should afterrun your engine every day you use it. It is just a good disipline to get into. May you have many years of trouble free power!
#4
Senior Member
RE: afterrun oil
WD-40 is the worst possible choice for after run oil unless you want ruin the sleeve and cylinder. If there is any rust anywhere in the engine, WD-40 will turn it into scouring powder which will do a number on the piston and cylinder. Use any air tool oil, Rislone or ATV, all work well. Many use Marvel Mystery Oil but it, gun oil and sewing machine oil but these are poor choices, slightly better than nothing as they are too thin and have poor lubricating properties.
#5
RE: afterrun oil
Someone on the engine forum did a test and WD 40 was not near as bad as Rodney stated. However it is mostly mineral spirits and if put into storage the mineral spirits evaporates leaving very little oil. IMO a mix of castor and synthetic oil, the same oils used to mix our fuels is the best.
#7
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RE: afterrun oil
ORIGINAL: driedjello WD40 works great, is very portable and easy to use with the tiny straws.
Don't take my word for it.
Spray a liberal dose of WD40 on a sheet of metal, and set it aside for a month or so. See what sort of lubrication remains.
#9
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RE: afterrun oil
As for the recommendations to use Mobil1 or another synthetic oil....True enought hat they have been shown to pass industry standard tests for rust prevention (as have any petroleum based oils meeting the industry specs) when the engine is subjected to a certain set of conditions not applicable to engine storage, but this is far from the same thing as a rust preventative oil for engine storage, which will meet a different spec, and one that is not commercially available, but is available for engine storage (under a Military specification) in the Arctic. Completely different additives are used for Mobil1 (and other oils) than for rust preventative oils. Go with Marvel or one of the air tool oils.
Then again, if you are using a YS engine, don't use any of the 'recommended' oils and only use what is recommended by YS.
Then again, if you are using a YS engine, don't use any of the 'recommended' oils and only use what is recommended by YS.