Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Baking Soda- whadja think it stood for??

One of my favorite methods for a light, super-strong gap-filler is baking soda. Anybody else here use this method? Say you have a gap between 2 pieces of wood that you want to fill (yeah, yeah- it wouldn't be there if I had done it right in the first place). [>:]

What I do is pour a small amount of baking soda onto the area to be filled, and use an old credit card to scrape off the excess- leaving the gap full of baking soda and even with the surrounding material. Then the soda gets a drop or two of thin CA- just enough to get all of it wet. Too much CA will bubble up excessively. Watch out for the fumes!

This process sets instantly, and creates a very strong, easily sandable filler that has just a bit of flexibility to it (its stiff/strong, but not brittle). Here's an example of a cross-member that I didn't shape perfectly, but was able to get a good result anyway with the B.S. method.

Anyone else here use this trick?

H5606

When Cya's for modelers first came on the scene, I seem to remember Satellite City's Hot Stuff used to include a brochure that came with the bottle of adhesive and it included some techniques using baking soda to fill voids or build up fillets. I still prefer aliphatic resin for balsa/balsa glue joints but will resort to Zap when I'm lazy.

BSARGE

I haven't thought of that....I like it....I always used to sand a scrap piece of balsa giving me a pile of balsa dust which I would use as a filler and apply thin CA...it seems to work ok, but it is a pain to sand....I am going to try the b.s. method now!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Baking soda is good, so is micro balloons and I have used balsa dust that I get from around my sander or saw. Ca works OK but the wood glue is much easier to sand. I keep A tub of ultra light wood filler found in any good hardware store on hand and use it the most. The tub weighs more then the filler. Easy to sand and when dry I lay A thin coat of CA over that if it's used in any stress area. There's A ton of different ways to get around the block.

johnvb-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

I've been using baking powder (what we call it here in Oz) with cyano for quite a while. Works good, but I wouldn't call it easily sandable. I mostly use it where it can't be seen. Works well to build up a fillet to add strength, especially on repairs.

parrthd

at the price of balsa, and as much scarp as i've got lying around, i just cut another piece if it's really bad. or i go with microballons or epoxy + milled fiberglass (personally haven't used this yet because i found out about it after the point i'd need it for anything on my current project. but i've got a bottle on my "next order from tower" list)

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Moved post, I guess the mods like me?? [:@]

rc-sport

My Feedback: (12)

An old modeler at our club fixed his broken tooth with BS and CA.

Rodney

The baking soda idea has been around a long time and is very useful. Another use for it is when CAing hardwoods or plywood together. Hardwoods tend to be slightly acidic (and CA's do not like acid bases) so a light dusting of baking soda on the hardwood joints neatralizes the acid and makes a far stronger and quicker joint.

voyager_663rd

Baking soda and Baking powder are basically the same. Powder has a "dry acid" included with it, to sort of slow down the reaction.

Baking soda requires a "wet acid" and releases all its by product (ie: CO2) all at once, which I think is what we're aiming for with this tip.

Electriceddie

And............. did that sand well???

Electriceddie

If the fit was that bad I would have just re-cut a new length of Balsa stick........

It does not sand easy. Sig or titebond glue mixed with balsa dust or baking soda to form a paste works well and is a lot more sandable..........

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Try using "Ultra Light Spakling" from any hardware store. I picked up a quart container for the first time and it almost hit the cieling. I expected some weight, the container felt like it was empty. You can use it right out of the bucket or mix it with epoxy, CA, woodglue etc. Sands excellent.

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

Don't try to make too big a fillet with baking soda or micro-balloons. The CA will only penetrate part-way into the stuff. If you MUST make a thick fill, do it in small steps to make sure the powder gets fully-wetted by the CA. Otherwise, you'll have a shell of glue with a dry powder filling.

suitcase

My Feedback: (1)

My servo hatches on the big boy are made using this method. I was worried about it, but they've held up so far. Just two hardwood sticks glued to the hatch via the bs method.