Polycrylic over Latex
10-12-2006, 05:01 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Lake Stevens,
WA
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Polycrylic over Latex
I've read many postings on doing this (Polycrylic over Latex). Apparently, it's fuel resistant, or not. It'll yellow, or not. It provides a strong finish, or not. I've decided to give it a try so I need to bring up another "it does, or not."
Nowhere do I recall anyone mentioning their method of application. You know, brush, spray, broom, etc. I called the Minwax people and, for their brand, they do not advise spraying, except for buying their spray can product. Unfortuantely, I've never mastered spray cans - I end up with a poorly applied finish loaded with runs.
So, those of you that have used polycrylic, how did you put it on? If sprayed, did U thin it? With what and how much? If water, did U add any solvents, flow control, or drying agents to it? What air pressure?
If you brushed, were U satisfied with the results? Weren't brush strokes left in the finish?
If you used a broom, thanks, but never mind.
Nowhere do I recall anyone mentioning their method of application. You know, brush, spray, broom, etc. I called the Minwax people and, for their brand, they do not advise spraying, except for buying their spray can product. Unfortuantely, I've never mastered spray cans - I end up with a poorly applied finish loaded with runs.
So, those of you that have used polycrylic, how did you put it on? If sprayed, did U thin it? With what and how much? If water, did U add any solvents, flow control, or drying agents to it? What air pressure?
If you brushed, were U satisfied with the results? Weren't brush strokes left in the finish?
If you used a broom, thanks, but never mind.
10-12-2006, 06:27 PM
#3
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
ORIGINAL: RichM
I've read many postings on doing this (Polycrylic over Latex). Apparently, it's fuel resistant, or not. It'll yellow, or not. It provides a strong finish, or not. I've decided to give it a try so I need to bring up another "it does, or not."
>My experience with Minwax Polycrylic is that it is fuel RESISTANT with
>the following caveats:
>
>1. Let the polycrylic dry/cure for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing
>the finish to any fuel residue.
>
>2. Do not let the exhaust residue remain on the finish for longer than
>4 hours. After 4 hours the poly begins to soften.
>
>Again, my experiences with the polycrylic have indicated there is no
>NOTICEABLE yellowing. After 18 months I have noticed a very faint
>difference on the white. The difference would not have been seen if
>the areas had not been right next to each other (Hatch cover and
>some over spray inside the compartment).
Nowhere do I recall anyone mentioning their method of application. You know, brush, spray, broom, etc. I called the Minwax people and, for their brand, they do not advise spraying, except for buying their spray can product. Unfortuantely, I've never mastered spray cans - I end up with a poorly applied finish loaded with runs.
So, those of you that have used polycrylic, how did you put it on? If sprayed, did U thin it? With what and how much? If water, did U add any solvents, flow control, or drying agents to it? What air pressure?
>I usually spray polycrylic. I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart. The Flotrol
> retards drying slightly, which allows the paint or poly more time to level itself.
>
>I use 25 - 30 psi. Under 25 psi I don't get the coverage I like and over 30 psi
>I start to get a "dimpled" effect. I use this pressure with both my single
>stage airbrush and the small hvlp gun I have.
>
>I do not thin the polycrylic for spraying, however, I do insure that it is very
>well mixed before putting it into the spray gun. If you do feel you want to
>thin the poly, I suggest regular water. Some people have suggested
>windshield washer fluid for thinning, but my experience doing that was that
>it left a faint tint.
If you brushed, were U satisfied with the results? Weren't brush strokes left in the finish?
>I have not brushed a finish coat of polycrylic on. A friend of mine has.
>He uses foam brushes, and the results he gets are excellent. If you
>examine the plane with a magnifying glass, you MAY find one or two
>small brush strokes (and you will need the magnifying glass to find them).
If you used a broom, thanks, but never mind.
I've read many postings on doing this (Polycrylic over Latex). Apparently, it's fuel resistant, or not. It'll yellow, or not. It provides a strong finish, or not. I've decided to give it a try so I need to bring up another "it does, or not."
>My experience with Minwax Polycrylic is that it is fuel RESISTANT with
>the following caveats:
>
>1. Let the polycrylic dry/cure for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing
>the finish to any fuel residue.
>
>2. Do not let the exhaust residue remain on the finish for longer than
>4 hours. After 4 hours the poly begins to soften.
>
>Again, my experiences with the polycrylic have indicated there is no
>NOTICEABLE yellowing. After 18 months I have noticed a very faint
>difference on the white. The difference would not have been seen if
>the areas had not been right next to each other (Hatch cover and
>some over spray inside the compartment).
Nowhere do I recall anyone mentioning their method of application. You know, brush, spray, broom, etc. I called the Minwax people and, for their brand, they do not advise spraying, except for buying their spray can product. Unfortuantely, I've never mastered spray cans - I end up with a poorly applied finish loaded with runs.
So, those of you that have used polycrylic, how did you put it on? If sprayed, did U thin it? With what and how much? If water, did U add any solvents, flow control, or drying agents to it? What air pressure?
>I usually spray polycrylic. I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart. The Flotrol
> retards drying slightly, which allows the paint or poly more time to level itself.
>
>I use 25 - 30 psi. Under 25 psi I don't get the coverage I like and over 30 psi
>I start to get a "dimpled" effect. I use this pressure with both my single
>stage airbrush and the small hvlp gun I have.
>
>I do not thin the polycrylic for spraying, however, I do insure that it is very
>well mixed before putting it into the spray gun. If you do feel you want to
>thin the poly, I suggest regular water. Some people have suggested
>windshield washer fluid for thinning, but my experience doing that was that
>it left a faint tint.
If you brushed, were U satisfied with the results? Weren't brush strokes left in the finish?
>I have not brushed a finish coat of polycrylic on. A friend of mine has.
>He uses foam brushes, and the results he gets are excellent. If you
>examine the plane with a magnifying glass, you MAY find one or two
>small brush strokes (and you will need the magnifying glass to find them).
If you used a broom, thanks, but never mind.
] glow - 15% nitro
10-12-2006, 07:02 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Lake Stevens,
WA
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
ORIGINAL: Campy
>My experience with Minwax Polycrylic is that it is fuel RESISTANT with
>the following caveats:
>
>1. Let the polycrylic dry/cure for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing
>the finish to any fuel residue.
>
>2. Do not let the exhaust residue remain on the finish for longer than
>4 hours. After 4 hours the poly begins to soften.
>
>Again, my experiences with the polycrylic have indicated there is no
>NOTICEABLE yellowing. After 18 months I have noticed a very faint
>difference on the white. The difference would not have been seen if
>the areas had not been right next to each other (Hatch cover and
>some over spray inside the compartment).
>I usually spray polycrylic. I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart. The Flotrol
> retards drying slightly, which allows the paint or poly more time to level itself.
>
>I use 25 - 30 psi. Under 25 psi I don't get the coverage I like and over 30 psi
>I start to get a "dimpled" effect. I use this pressure with both my single
>stage airbrush and the small hvlp gun I have.
>
>I do not thin the polycrylic for spraying, however, I do insure that it is very
>well mixed before putting it into the spray gun. If you do feel you want to
>thin the poly, I suggest regular water. Some people have suggested
>windshield washer fluid for thinning, but my experience doing that was that
>it left a faint tint.
Hope this answers your questions.
>My experience with Minwax Polycrylic is that it is fuel RESISTANT with
>the following caveats:
>
>1. Let the polycrylic dry/cure for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing
>the finish to any fuel residue.
>
>2. Do not let the exhaust residue remain on the finish for longer than
>4 hours. After 4 hours the poly begins to soften.
>
>Again, my experiences with the polycrylic have indicated there is no
>NOTICEABLE yellowing. After 18 months I have noticed a very faint
>difference on the white. The difference would not have been seen if
>the areas had not been right next to each other (Hatch cover and
>some over spray inside the compartment).
>I usually spray polycrylic. I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart. The Flotrol
> retards drying slightly, which allows the paint or poly more time to level itself.
>
>I use 25 - 30 psi. Under 25 psi I don't get the coverage I like and over 30 psi
>I start to get a "dimpled" effect. I use this pressure with both my single
>stage airbrush and the small hvlp gun I have.
>
>I do not thin the polycrylic for spraying, however, I do insure that it is very
>well mixed before putting it into the spray gun. If you do feel you want to
>thin the poly, I suggest regular water. Some people have suggested
>windshield washer fluid for thinning, but my experience doing that was that
>it left a faint tint.
Hope this answers your questions.
Thanks Campy, that should do it. Sounds like about the same setting as for the latex. Interesting about the FloTrol. I used that in the Latex but was wondering if it'd be compatable with the Poly.
The drying time is fine because it will be months since I'm leaving it up here in WA for the winter and it'll be plenty aged by next Spring. A slight yellowing, if it happens, won't matter because it is a red wing that is new, modified (foam core) and I am putting it on a white fuse. Nothing to match and if it yellows it'll just go a little toward orange. No big deal. I'm more interested to see the handling with the new wing.
Interesting about the brush results but I think I'll go with the air spraying. My brush work is usually right down there with my spray can attempts.
10-12-2006, 07:38 PM
#6
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
My local hardware store had Varathane Diamond Spar Uretahne Outdoor Satin (and gloss) in a spray can. I used it on my latex painted Spitfire and am satisfied with the results. On my next project, I will probably mix ans spray wiht my own equipment. I suspect that I'll be able to get a smoother finish using my own spray equipment.
Scott
Scott
10-13-2006, 02:01 PM
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: FrederickMD
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
I brushed latex on the ABS cowl for my GP Cap 232. I then used a foam brush to overcoat with the Minwax Polycrylic. I was happy with the ultimate resulting finish. Unfortunately, I didn't follow the 4 hour rule on the exhaust residue. The result was the Polycrylic started softening, dirt got embedded, and the finish deteriorated. The underlying latex was fine. 6 months later, I was fed up with it. I had some other repairs to do, so I took off the cowl, painstakingly peeled all the latex paint off, resanded, and painted with the Top Flite Lustrekote. Now I wish I had just used that in the first place. The finish is nicer, and the Lustrekote was suprisingly forgiving in the application. It apparently has a very volatile solvent that allows it to go on very wet for a nice glossy finish, yet hardens quickly before it gets a chance to run or drip.
Just my humble opinion.
Brad
Just my humble opinion.
Brad
10-13-2006, 06:49 PM
#8
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
have been a fan of the varathane diamond poly acrylic for a while and have used it out of the can brushing for work as well as on my planes, also have sprayed it using a small amount of window washer fluid for thinner have not noticed any yellowing over the white areas the secret to a smooth finish using a foam or standard high quality brush is not to over brush the product, thats where you get the lines and streaks quik strokes and let dry, although I also have had great results with spraying through my airbrush 5-10% thinner water or ww fluid and 25psi of pressure
10-15-2006, 06:27 AM
#9
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
Scott,
If I am understanding you correctly you used the oil based urethane for the clear coat? I am just finishing up a 1/4 Dr1 and used Minwax Polyurethane which is oil based over acrylic latex. I am going to consider water based on my next project though. Lungs hate the smell and the oil based gets all over everything just like static electricity draws it to objects. I also have noticed that the oil based attacts a lot more dust and other debries into the finish.
Thanks JEB
If I am understanding you correctly you used the oil based urethane for the clear coat? I am just finishing up a 1/4 Dr1 and used Minwax Polyurethane which is oil based over acrylic latex. I am going to consider water based on my next project though. Lungs hate the smell and the oil based gets all over everything just like static electricity draws it to objects. I also have noticed that the oil based attacts a lot more dust and other debries into the finish.
Thanks JEB
10-15-2006, 12:13 PM
#10
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
Hi Jeb,
I used the waterbased clear satin Varathane Diamond Spar Urethane Outdoor formula in a spray can. When I went to the hardware store (Orchard Hardware Supply), I was planning on buying a quart can of the Polycrylic, but spotted these 11 1/4 oz spray cans of waterbased urethane in gloss and satin, and decided to give it a try. I just took a look at the back of the can and it appears this is from Rust-oleum Corp. and more info can be found at www.varathane.com. I agree that the oil base would be less than an ideal choice for clearcoating. Besides the smell, and dust issues, the oil based urethanes will yellow with age.
Scott
I used the waterbased clear satin Varathane Diamond Spar Urethane Outdoor formula in a spray can. When I went to the hardware store (Orchard Hardware Supply), I was planning on buying a quart can of the Polycrylic, but spotted these 11 1/4 oz spray cans of waterbased urethane in gloss and satin, and decided to give it a try. I just took a look at the back of the can and it appears this is from Rust-oleum Corp. and more info can be found at www.varathane.com. I agree that the oil base would be less than an ideal choice for clearcoating. Besides the smell, and dust issues, the oil based urethanes will yellow with age.
Scott
10-15-2006, 05:13 PM
#12
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
Hi Kmot,
Yes, it's glow. I run powermaster 10% nitro in my RCV 90SP. Unfortunately, due to a radio problem, I've not maidened yet. I have run on the ground doing engine and control adjustments. I've gone through 3 days of ground operations and perhaps 5 or so tanks. There's no effect to the finish so far. I hope to maiden soon after getting my radio back from service.
When you gonna bring that 4 * down to the basin????
Scott
Yes, it's glow. I run powermaster 10% nitro in my RCV 90SP. Unfortunately, due to a radio problem, I've not maidened yet. I have run on the ground doing engine and control adjustments. I've gone through 3 days of ground operations and perhaps 5 or so tanks. There's no effect to the finish so far. I hope to maiden soon after getting my radio back from service.
When you gonna bring that 4 * down to the basin????
Scott
10-16-2006, 04:19 PM
#13
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
ORIGINAL: bps
Scott,
If I am understanding you correctly you used the oil based urethane for the clear coat? I am just finishing up a 1/4 Dr1 and used Minwax Polyurethane which is oil based over acrylic latex. I am going to consider water based on my next project though. Lungs hate the smell and the oil based gets all over everything just like static electricity draws it to objects. I also have noticed that the oil based attacts a lot more dust and other debries into the finish.
Thanks JEB
Scott,
If I am understanding you correctly you used the oil based urethane for the clear coat? I am just finishing up a 1/4 Dr1 and used Minwax Polyurethane which is oil based over acrylic latex. I am going to consider water based on my next project though. Lungs hate the smell and the oil based gets all over everything just like static electricity draws it to objects. I also have noticed that the oil based attacts a lot more dust and other debries into the finish.
Thanks JEB
10-23-2006, 03:00 AM
#14
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
the deal with the water based varathane is to allow it to cure,to be fuel resistant, the water based product in the can is O.K. to use on floors as well as furniture and does not yellow like the oil based product . I use the stuff for work all the time oil and water based depending on for what i need it.
10-23-2006, 08:51 AM
#15
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jacksonville, IL
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Polycrylic over Latex
Bigtim: I've used the water-based "Varthane for floors" on a diesel-powered plane which had been painted with latex. No problems so far, but that's not glow. How long do you let it cure before you're comfortable with exposing it to glow fuel?
BTW, for others reading this, the FLOOR grade water-based Varthane is NOT the "regular" water-based Varthane--there is a big difference in price, too. (Guess which one is more expensive!) I had a hard time locating it in quart cans, and ended up paying about half the price of a gallon to get a quart. Gallons are more readily available, and the last time I checked were about $30-35.
Dzl
BTW, for others reading this, the FLOOR grade water-based Varthane is NOT the "regular" water-based Varthane--there is a big difference in price, too. (Guess which one is more expensive!) I had a hard time locating it in quart cans, and ended up paying about half the price of a gallon to get a quart. Gallons are more readily available, and the last time I checked were about $30-35.
Dzl
