custom markings using film
#1
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custom markings using film
I thought I'd post this after getting a few questions from folks. The questions was how to make custom lettering or markings using (in my case) Monokote. There are a lot of different markings available but most local shops don't carry a good assortment or the correct sized needed. After building a few kits, people tend to accumilate different colors of covering. Here is a way to turn some of that scrap coving into decent looking lettering, numbering or markings.
First find the marking you want. The easiest way to do this is using a computer so using a digital image copied from somethere because you can them use the computer to manipulate the image to suit your model. Once you have something you think is right and the correct size, go ahead and print it out on regular paper and cut it out roughly just to check it against the model. This will give you an idea of what it will look like on the model. If you need to make an adjustment, go ahead and repeat until satisfied. Once you are happy with the size load your printer with adhesive backed paper (full sheet labels at your local office supply store) and print a negative or mirror image of your marking. Some printers have an option to print negative images, but if the marking is symetrical like a circle or star then there is no need to worry about it. Peel and stick onto the back side (peel away side) of the covering and then cut out with a sharp hobby knife. Make sure you go completely thru the covering when you cut. Remove the backing and place on your model. I like to sray the area with Windex and then apply the marking. Once Im happy with the position, I'll carefully sqeege out the Windex from under the marking working outward from the center to make sure I dont accidentally move the marking. I like to let the marking dry overnight and then go over it with a warm (not hot) covering iron. Below are some examples... Hope this helps!
First find the marking you want. The easiest way to do this is using a computer so using a digital image copied from somethere because you can them use the computer to manipulate the image to suit your model. Once you have something you think is right and the correct size, go ahead and print it out on regular paper and cut it out roughly just to check it against the model. This will give you an idea of what it will look like on the model. If you need to make an adjustment, go ahead and repeat until satisfied. Once you are happy with the size load your printer with adhesive backed paper (full sheet labels at your local office supply store) and print a negative or mirror image of your marking. Some printers have an option to print negative images, but if the marking is symetrical like a circle or star then there is no need to worry about it. Peel and stick onto the back side (peel away side) of the covering and then cut out with a sharp hobby knife. Make sure you go completely thru the covering when you cut. Remove the backing and place on your model. I like to sray the area with Windex and then apply the marking. Once Im happy with the position, I'll carefully sqeege out the Windex from under the marking working outward from the center to make sure I dont accidentally move the marking. I like to let the marking dry overnight and then go over it with a warm (not hot) covering iron. Below are some examples... Hope this helps!
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RE: custom markings using film
I covered my Telemaster in Monokote and used this method (Windex) to attach Monokote pieces as trim however I never went over the trim pieces with a warm iron. The plane has not yet been flown or exposed to fuel and the trim has been on the plane for about a month now,,, do you feel it's too late to use the iron? Any chance the trim will fail to adhere if I don't?
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RE: custom markings using film
I am really not certain...I would say it isnt too late to use the iron. I use the warm iron to make sure it's down for sure...
Someone else jump in if they've had good results with attaching trim with just Windex...
Someone else jump in if they've had good results with attaching trim with just Windex...
#5
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RE: custom markings using film
Wow, that looks fantastic! I think I'll try that out on an RV-4 I'm building.
When you say "warm iron", do you have an idea of what temp that would be? Obviously warm enough to activate the monocote adhesive but not warmenough to shrink it.
Thanks!
When you say "warm iron", do you have an idea of what temp that would be? Obviously warm enough to activate the monocote adhesive but not warmenough to shrink it.
Thanks!
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RE: custom markings using film
I dont really have a temp for "warm"...sorry. I use monokote and use a top flite iron. Ive actually marked the ideal temps for covering on the dial using a sharpie pen on the temp dial. I have a hot setting for putting film down on wood and a warm setting for sticking film onto itself. Experiment and find a temp that lets you go over the covering without creating air bubble from the iron being too hot. On my iron, its at about the 10-11 oclock position on the dial if I remember correctly.
#7
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RE: custom markings using film
ORIGINAL: rmcdicken
Wow, that looks fantastic! I think I'll try that out on an RV-4 I'm building.
When you say "warm iron", do you have an idea of what temp that would be? Obviously warm enough to activate the monocote adhesive but not warmenough to shrink it.
Thanks!
Wow, that looks fantastic! I think I'll try that out on an RV-4 I'm building.
When you say "warm iron", do you have an idea of what temp that would be? Obviously warm enough to activate the monocote adhesive but not warmenough to shrink it.
Thanks!
Ultracote gives that information in each roll of film. It activates at lower temps than Monokote.
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RE: custom markings using film
ORIGINAL: da Rock
Ultracote gives that information in each roll of film. It activates at lower temps than Monokote.
Ultracote gives that information in each roll of film. It activates at lower temps than Monokote.
True, however Ultracote won't work with Windex (only Monokote glue is activated by the Windex method)
V.
#9
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RE: custom markings using film
Yup, it won't.
But it lays flat and can be ironed out on low temp without bubbles if you learn how to ease the iron along.
And you can use water/soap to lay it out flatter. Water/soap works with almost every plastic film. The technique is to use the fluid to position, then squeegee the water out. You let it sit for awhile. Then iron carefully. Some techniques aren't as easy as others to learn, but work good when you get the hang of it.
But it lays flat and can be ironed out on low temp without bubbles if you learn how to ease the iron along.
And you can use water/soap to lay it out flatter. Water/soap works with almost every plastic film. The technique is to use the fluid to position, then squeegee the water out. You let it sit for awhile. Then iron carefully. Some techniques aren't as easy as others to learn, but work good when you get the hang of it.