Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
09-14-2007, 05:00 PM
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Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I obtained a good deal on a Fokker E. III Eindecker recently and I plan to make it my winter project. Some more guys from our R/C club are considering building one as well. We hope to build them and have our own "Fokker Scourge". We are planning to give them all the same squadron markings. I hope to post a building thread later as I begin the project.
I am undecided on my engine choice as of yet. I hope to put a .91 4 Stoker on it but I would like to hear from others who built this plane on what you used. I am considering converting a weed wacker too. I plan on using either Solartex or Coverite and painting the trim scheme. I hope to build the scale main landing gear and cheat a little by putting a steerable tailwheel,
Anyway I would enjoy hearing from anyone who has built this plane and any mods you may have incorporated or wished you had. I hope to begin framing it up soon. I have built several planes from trainers to fun flies so I am not new to building. I enjoy building as much as flying.
Thanks, Steve
I am undecided on my engine choice as of yet. I hope to put a .91 4 Stoker on it but I would like to hear from others who built this plane on what you used. I am considering converting a weed wacker too. I plan on using either Solartex or Coverite and painting the trim scheme. I hope to build the scale main landing gear and cheat a little by putting a steerable tailwheel,
Anyway I would enjoy hearing from anyone who has built this plane and any mods you may have incorporated or wished you had. I hope to begin framing it up soon. I have built several planes from trainers to fun flies so I am not new to building. I enjoy building as much as flying.
Thanks, Steve
09-15-2007, 09:26 AM
#3
RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
My buddy and I had 3 Balsa USA Eindeckers, one giant, covered with Solartex and finished as an Austrian A-3 , one small, finished in red 21st century, and a second small one, bashed into a Morane-Saulnier Type N (Fokker copied the wing of an earlier Morane).
We flew the big A-3 with an OS 1.08 2-stroke, but sold it to a man who used an OS .91 4-stroke. You don't need full power with either engine.
If you plan to fly nice and slow at a scale speed, the plane will be fine as designed. If you plan to go faster and do acro, it has some limitations. With the incidence and flat bottom airfoil, it tends to climb like a trainer at full power. On the Morane version, during construction, we raised the TE of the wing 3/16 inch to counter the climb. This worked somewhat, but wasn't completely satisfactory. It really needs a symmetrical airfoil for good acro performance. The plane has good moments and a good sized tail, both non-scale, so it could be a fairly good acro plane and still have the scale looks.
We moved the ailerons in one bay and lengthened them. They are fairly small. You can see on the Morane where they are located and the size. They are non-scale, anyway, as the full scale used wing warping.
The Morane mod is covered with antique Solartex cloth and painted with clear polyurethane. We also added the scale landing gear and flying wires.
Either size is a good flying, semi-trainer type plane. It is very easy to land, but will tip on a wing tip in a crosswind taxi.
We flew the big A-3 with an OS 1.08 2-stroke, but sold it to a man who used an OS .91 4-stroke. You don't need full power with either engine.
If you plan to fly nice and slow at a scale speed, the plane will be fine as designed. If you plan to go faster and do acro, it has some limitations. With the incidence and flat bottom airfoil, it tends to climb like a trainer at full power. On the Morane version, during construction, we raised the TE of the wing 3/16 inch to counter the climb. This worked somewhat, but wasn't completely satisfactory. It really needs a symmetrical airfoil for good acro performance. The plane has good moments and a good sized tail, both non-scale, so it could be a fairly good acro plane and still have the scale looks.
We moved the ailerons in one bay and lengthened them. They are fairly small. You can see on the Morane where they are located and the size. They are non-scale, anyway, as the full scale used wing warping.
The Morane mod is covered with antique Solartex cloth and painted with clear polyurethane. We also added the scale landing gear and flying wires.
Either size is a good flying, semi-trainer type plane. It is very easy to land, but will tip on a wing tip in a crosswind taxi.
09-15-2007, 05:41 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
Thanks for the replys so far. I plan on building the .90 size BUSA version. Those 2 Fokkers look great ! I too plan on adding flyingwires.
09-20-2007, 03:42 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I know where a .70 magnum 4 stroke is. Would this have enough power to fly the Eindecker decently ? If not I am still loking for .91 4 - stroke at a good price or trade.
09-20-2007, 04:27 PM
#6
RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
A .70 4s won't be enough power. I had one several years ago that I flew with a Saito .90 4s. Power was OK, but it could have used a little more. Plus the fact that nose weight is needed for balance, a gasser like a G23 or G26 would be ideal.
10-02-2007, 04:09 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I bought a .91 OS FS II Surpass to put on my Eindceker. I hope to start the building soon. As my build progresses I plan on updating this thread. Here is a picture of the 91 I bought.
10-05-2007, 05:23 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I couldn't resist the urge any longer. I started joining one side of the fuse last night. I plan on avoiding CA glue as much as possible by using white glue. I have built several like this. It make take a little longer but thats ok with me. I'll post some pics later.
10-09-2007, 06:29 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I agree that some brands of CA are more potent than others. There is even an odorless variety but is IT expensive!, lol...
I've tried several different ones and have found HandiBond to be the least offensive when it goes "off". It's also very affordable, a nice plus.
My Dad had to give up building as he developed a severe allergic reaction to CA's. The ease and convenience of "building in your hands" with CA spoiled him. His having to use clamps, T-pins and waiting really took it's toll. He sold out and took up karaoke :-).
I use a respirator in the Winter months when proper ventilation isn't available but this is only for close-in work.
Another point...I've found that medium and thick CA's don't "go-off" like the thin variety and if I use an activator, the cure time is almost as quick as using the thinner stuff. Hardly any fumes at all. Granted, using the activator doesn't allow as strong a bonding but I've yet to experience a failure using this method of construction.
Since you've made the switch back to white glue, thin it with water abit to allow better wood penetration for stronger bonding. I used to squirt all the glue into a container, thin it out and pour it back into the applicator bottle. The excess was stored in a glass jar, tightly sealed for future use. Just a thought.
I have a BUSA E-III, too. Mine's an original kit from the early 80's. It was sitting in my Uncle's basement until after his death. My Aunt gave it to me along with a bunch of other kits and supplies. Our family have been model builders since the 40's.
Good luck with your build. I'll be interested in seeing photos along the way.
PM
I've tried several different ones and have found HandiBond to be the least offensive when it goes "off". It's also very affordable, a nice plus.
My Dad had to give up building as he developed a severe allergic reaction to CA's. The ease and convenience of "building in your hands" with CA spoiled him. His having to use clamps, T-pins and waiting really took it's toll. He sold out and took up karaoke :-).
I use a respirator in the Winter months when proper ventilation isn't available but this is only for close-in work.
Another point...I've found that medium and thick CA's don't "go-off" like the thin variety and if I use an activator, the cure time is almost as quick as using the thinner stuff. Hardly any fumes at all. Granted, using the activator doesn't allow as strong a bonding but I've yet to experience a failure using this method of construction.
Since you've made the switch back to white glue, thin it with water abit to allow better wood penetration for stronger bonding. I used to squirt all the glue into a container, thin it out and pour it back into the applicator bottle. The excess was stored in a glass jar, tightly sealed for future use. Just a thought.
I have a BUSA E-III, too. Mine's an original kit from the early 80's. It was sitting in my Uncle's basement until after his death. My Aunt gave it to me along with a bunch of other kits and supplies. Our family have been model builders since the 40's.
Good luck with your build. I'll be interested in seeing photos along the way.
PM
10-09-2007, 09:59 AM
#13
RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I've been sitting on my 90 size BUSA E-III for a year now, this winter looks like I'll take a crack at it. A couple of things I noticed running through the instructions.
-They rewrote their Taube instructions for the Fokker kit. The instructions call it a Taube way late in the book.
-They call for drawing a line on the fuselage side at the wheel block mounting hole, it would be a lot easier to draw these lines before you glue the two sides together.
-They call for drawing the centerlines on the firewall very late in the assembley, again it would be a lot easier to measure and draw these lines before you glue the firewall to anything.
Good luck on the build
-They rewrote their Taube instructions for the Fokker kit. The instructions call it a Taube way late in the book.
-They call for drawing a line on the fuselage side at the wheel block mounting hole, it would be a lot easier to draw these lines before you glue the two sides together.
-They call for drawing the centerlines on the firewall very late in the assembley, again it would be a lot easier to measure and draw these lines before you glue the firewall to anything.
Good luck on the build
10-09-2007, 04:35 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
Thanks for all the replies, comments, & suggestions so far. I plan to deatil this build all the way thru from start to finish. Hopefully it may be of some use to someone or just a way to socialize.
I still use Ca & Epoxy in my building. I just try to limit my use when I can. It is much cheaper, easier to clean up, gives me more time to line up parts, & lessens my exposure. I plan on being in this hobby for a long time (God willing) and I enjoy building as much as flying. So far Ca only mildly irritates my sinus. I ventilate my shop with a open window with a fan running and try not to inhale any more of it than I have too.
Here is a cell phone pic of both fuse sides built and ready to sand and then later join together. I hope Santa brings me a good digital camera this year, lol. Good luck to everyone elses winter projects !
I still use Ca & Epoxy in my building. I just try to limit my use when I can. It is much cheaper, easier to clean up, gives me more time to line up parts, & lessens my exposure. I plan on being in this hobby for a long time (God willing) and I enjoy building as much as flying. So far Ca only mildly irritates my sinus. I ventilate my shop with a open window with a fan running and try not to inhale any more of it than I have too.
Here is a cell phone pic of both fuse sides built and ready to sand and then later join together. I hope Santa brings me a good digital camera this year, lol. Good luck to everyone elses winter projects !
10-13-2007, 03:37 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I joined the fuse sides together and installed the firewall. It is ready to sheet the top section.
10-20-2007, 07:39 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
Well I sheeted the top part of the fuse, installed the triangle stock around the firewall, landing gear blocks along with the triangle stock around them and sheeted the the bottom of the fuse up to the landing gear blocks like the instrictions said. Now its time to start on the wing.
12-31-2007, 05:50 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
ORIGINAL: eric354
saito .65 four stroke eindecker 90 think that you?
saito .65 four stroke eindecker 90 think that you?
should work
, but if you build heavy[>:], or your saito is tired[
], you may not have much extra to work with[:@]FA[8D]
01-01-2008, 05:44 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
I have the 40 size and its one of the favorites in my hanger, fly mine with a Saito .62 plenty of power and flies very scale like. Great plane you’ll like it!!!!
01-01-2008, 05:48 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Fokker E . III Eindecker build
[quote]ORIGINAL: FlyerJeff
I have the 40 size and its one of the favorites in my hanger, fly mine with a Saito .62 plenty of power and flies very scale like. covered with SR-TEX. Great plane you’ll like it!!!!
I have the 40 size and its one of the favorites in my hanger, fly mine with a Saito .62 plenty of power and flies very scale like. covered with SR-TEX. Great plane you’ll like it!!!!
