Hirobo XRB SR Shuttle Blade Substitution
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Hirobo XRB SR Shuttle Blade Substitution
I have seen many posts for substituting blades among other coax type helis but have not seen one for the XRB SR Shuttle.
Has anyone used the AXE EZ blades or similar ones on the XRB Shuttle?
Thanks in advance!
Has anyone used the AXE EZ blades or similar ones on the XRB Shuttle?
Thanks in advance!
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RE: Hirobo XRB SR Shuttle Blade Substitution
Hello,
I just ordered some carbon fiber blades on E-bay. Those foam blades are not good for flyers like myself (beginners). My problem with the Hirobo Shuttle is that it doesn't fly forward that well. I was thinking of putting a little weight on the front. I don't know. Though I gotta say the quality of the Hirobo is unmatched by anything I've seen.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I just ordered some carbon fiber blades on E-bay. Those foam blades are not good for flyers like myself (beginners). My problem with the Hirobo Shuttle is that it doesn't fly forward that well. I was thinking of putting a little weight on the front. I don't know. Though I gotta say the quality of the Hirobo is unmatched by anything I've seen.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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RE: Hirobo XRB SR Shuttle Blade Substitution
Congrats on the new heli. I am also a newbie...I have been flying all of three weeks. Mine also has the tendency to drift backwards. I noticed it more after doing a couple of hopps. The battery tends to slide backwards in the tray if you bounce. There are trhee things I did to reduce the tendency backwards:
1) Slide the battary all the way forward. Once there from the lower edge of the battary I lightly push the battery forward and up at the same time until the battary clips behind the two little plastic guides. Don't push too hard...it doesn't take a lot of effort. This doesn't change the center of gravity, but it does help keep it from shifting backwards causing a change in the flight characteristics. (see attached drawings)
2) Adjust the trim per the manual on page 20. This says to set the forward/reverse sub trim on the flying unit first while the corresponding trim on the TX (radio) is at center. Then do the fine adjustments on the transmitter. This applies with all of the trims except the rudder trim.
3) The last thing I did was remove the tail rotor. I kept the black piece the tail rotor mounts though. You may need to adjust the forward/reverse trim a little after doing this.
Other Adviece:
About the CF blades...I don't think you should use them yet. Becuase we are still beginners, the foam blades better. If you use the CF blades and you hit something, you are more likely to damage to more parts on the heli beyond just the blades. Not to mention the damage to whatever piece of furniture or object you hit. Don't fly it outside, the slightes breeze(even one you don't notice) will affect the Shuttle. You will notice the airconditioner even does it. As you practice, you will notice this more and compensate. The beauty of the foam blades is that they do break. They sacrifice themselves for the more expensive mechanical parts. With the CF blades you are more likely to bend the shaft. A box of 8 blades is around 10 bucks. I would recommend have one box of A blades handy to two boxes of B blades. I have found that I was breaking more B blades than A blades. I can hover confidently now and I am only breaking blades when I push the envelope [8D] .
Get good with setting the tracking and triming the yaw. My LHS says not to waist time balancing the blades, but I do it anyway as practice for the future when it realy matters . I noticed though that once you add a piece of tape, the blade with the tape becomes static electrically charged and makes the blade become attracted to the table or my hand, which ever is closer. At this point, hold the base of the balancer with your finger tips. Oh...also, when adding a piece of tape, dont fold it over the edge until you verify the balance.
Hmm. I think that is pretty much the things I learned that were not in the manual. The settup information in the manual is very good but the tracking part was a little confusing until I realized that when one blade is tracking higher, that is the one you want to reduce the pitch on.
Oh...lastly if you have not seen it already I highly recommend the following web page:
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html
Good luck and happy flying.
DVjr.
1) Slide the battary all the way forward. Once there from the lower edge of the battary I lightly push the battery forward and up at the same time until the battary clips behind the two little plastic guides. Don't push too hard...it doesn't take a lot of effort. This doesn't change the center of gravity, but it does help keep it from shifting backwards causing a change in the flight characteristics. (see attached drawings)
2) Adjust the trim per the manual on page 20. This says to set the forward/reverse sub trim on the flying unit first while the corresponding trim on the TX (radio) is at center. Then do the fine adjustments on the transmitter. This applies with all of the trims except the rudder trim.
3) The last thing I did was remove the tail rotor. I kept the black piece the tail rotor mounts though. You may need to adjust the forward/reverse trim a little after doing this.
Other Adviece:
About the CF blades...I don't think you should use them yet. Becuase we are still beginners, the foam blades better. If you use the CF blades and you hit something, you are more likely to damage to more parts on the heli beyond just the blades. Not to mention the damage to whatever piece of furniture or object you hit. Don't fly it outside, the slightes breeze(even one you don't notice) will affect the Shuttle. You will notice the airconditioner even does it. As you practice, you will notice this more and compensate. The beauty of the foam blades is that they do break. They sacrifice themselves for the more expensive mechanical parts. With the CF blades you are more likely to bend the shaft. A box of 8 blades is around 10 bucks. I would recommend have one box of A blades handy to two boxes of B blades. I have found that I was breaking more B blades than A blades. I can hover confidently now and I am only breaking blades when I push the envelope [8D] .
Get good with setting the tracking and triming the yaw. My LHS says not to waist time balancing the blades, but I do it anyway as practice for the future when it realy matters . I noticed though that once you add a piece of tape, the blade with the tape becomes static electrically charged and makes the blade become attracted to the table or my hand, which ever is closer. At this point, hold the base of the balancer with your finger tips. Oh...also, when adding a piece of tape, dont fold it over the edge until you verify the balance.
Hmm. I think that is pretty much the things I learned that were not in the manual. The settup information in the manual is very good but the tracking part was a little confusing until I realized that when one blade is tracking higher, that is the one you want to reduce the pitch on.
Oh...lastly if you have not seen it already I highly recommend the following web page:
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html
Good luck and happy flying.
DVjr.
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RE: Hirobo XRB SR Shuttle Blade Substitution
*-shameless bump-*
Anybody try other Coax Heli blades on their XRB? Like those from the eSky Lama helis or the Helimax Axe EZ, or some of the Walkera coax heli's? I know that the eFlite ones wont work because of their mounting.
Thanks!
Anybody try other Coax Heli blades on their XRB? Like those from the eSky Lama helis or the Helimax Axe EZ, or some of the Walkera coax heli's? I know that the eFlite ones wont work because of their mounting.
Thanks!