insalacosm

My Feedback: (1)

I just finished covering my Great Planes Cap 232 with Monokote, the primary color being Cub Yellow, and sprayed the cowl and wheel pants with Lusterkote Cub Yellow but they ended up being way too orange. Because the paint is fairly translucent I had coverage issues and had to apply several coats to get an even finish - the color darkened with each coat. I'm thinking my best option is to sand the parts down to the primer, and then try to get a nice uniform finish in two coats. I'm still concerned that I may not get a uniform finish again because the paint is so translucent and the surface area of the cowl is fairly large. I don't have an air brush so I'm stuck with premixed cans of spray paint. Are there other products that match Monokote's Cub Yellow or should I just give it another try? Any suggestions are appreciated. thanks
Steve

Don41

You might want to use white as a base color. I too found out that the more coats you add the deeper the yellow which seems odd to say the least. You'd think more coats would tend to color match the monokote better, not less.

[I'd go for the white base without the sanding].

I think my next creation will be white with two different shades of blue. I've had my fill of colors like Cub Yellow.

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

Lustercoat for the most part is a close color match, never a perfect match. As for redoing what you have done, I think if you do that you will be right where you are now when you have finished it all again. The only way that I know to get an even closer match is to go to the local paint store with color matching equipment and get some latex paint, but then you would have to figure out how to get it sprayed on. I have heard that some automotive shops can make rattle cans. Good Luck, Dave

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

With light pigment colors (yellow, red, etc ) your best bet is to use a WHITE primer/base coat. With yellow, silver also works exceptionally well as a base coat. I feel that a silver base coat gives yellow a more accurate color, and typically in 2 coats (sometimes 3 depending on how heavy the coats are ).

If you decide to go the latex route, again, use a white (or silver ) base coat. Flat latex needs to "cure" an average of 10 days before clear coating, semi-gloss and gloss averages around 20 days to cure. With latex, the shine is provided by the clear coat. Latex IS NOT going to give you the Monokote shine, however, it is easy (and inexpensive ) to match.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The Ultracoat/Oracoate combination is a little better but I would still recomend putting a basecoat of white down first. I am in the process of covering a SIG Cub in bright Yellow with Ultracoat and spraying the interior and cowl with the matching paint.

scratchonly

Hard to believe but I've been told black is the best undercoat for yellow. Never tried it, yellow seems to be the worst color for covering.

Stew99

I've had pretty good results with cub yellow Lusterkote on small parts by using a white undercoat and misting a couple of light coats of color. On larger parts I can never get it even and the more I try to fix it the worse it gets.

insalacosm

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks everyone for the tips. I'm going to test things out on the wheel pants first thing they are smaller than the cowl, and what I decided to do is to lightly sand the surface, reapply primer to ensure a uniform and opaque undercoat, and then try my best to get an even coat in a couple coats. The fuse has a 1.5 inch white stripe on either side, with 1/8" wide blue pinstripping, so one option I can always resort to on the cowl is to wrap the white stripe around the top and bottom of the front of the cowl to reduce the amount of yellow needed. I'll post pictures when I'm "done".

On a side note, I found a quick squeegee substitute last night when I was applying the white monokote stripe to the fuse: my AMA card! It is flexible yet firm enough to remove all the windex so the end result was pretty good (almost bubbless). I try to avoid putting monokote on top of monoke and usually overlap colors by 1/8", but since the fuse is an open structure, this was the easiest method for this application.

Steve