Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
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Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
Im going to post a few setup and driving tips regarding the Rio 51. If any of you guys or gails have any other.. Feel free to post them too.
Setup:
Motor:
Please FOLLOW THE START procedure the first time you start your boat...
I have found that about 7/8 needle on the HSN is about right for my altitude. 700'. You might have to adjust for your altitude. The higher your alt the more you might have to turn the needle in. (remember to run the boat closer to the factory settings during break in).
Start the motor with as low an idle as you can and still have the motor run. After the motor is running you can turn the idle up if you like. It just starts easer at a lower idle position (again this is done on your TX)
LSN is less picky and we have found the 2.5 turns is darn close for most operation.
Make sure to pickle your motor and WATER cooling system after you are done running the boat for the day.
Hardware:
To start set your trim plates level with the bottom of the boat. This seem to be about the best place to start with the 2 blade prop. Just a tad neg with the 3 blade.
Set the leading edge of your rudder 90 deg to the keel. If you feel the boat is getting to loose in the corers and maybe in the straits, you can tuck it under a few deg.
Set the strut at 0 and start testing there. I like this for both props as this works in most water conditions again with both props.
Turn fins just need to be level looking.. not all whacked out of shape.
RUN THE BOAT WITH THE COWL ON. If you blow your Rio 51 off the water it can save you from busting the glass work, we call that a hydraulic and its not to cool to have happen. I have done it on monos and hydros. so run the boat with the cowl on please. Make sure you snap the latches too.
Check to see that all the screws and parts are tight
Driving:
The Rio 51 handles like a dream. It turns as well at 20 as it does at 45. Just remember like ANY performance RC boat they ALL TURN BETTER TO THE RIGHT THEN THE LEFT.. so give yourself some room to turn left. In the videos on the Aquacraft website you can see the boat turn quite wll in both directions but if you want the best performance turn right.
The Steering servo in your boat as MORE enough power to turn you boat that is AS LONG AS YOUR RX BATS ARE GOOD. Check and replace your bats often to be save.. did you know that could mean every 3 runs or so.. yup.. you were having some much fun that you did not realize you were just running for an hour and a half..
Rough water.. HAVE AT IT.. its ALL GOOD..just remember you boat is going to take a tremendous beating in rough water. make sure you check every thing over and clean your boat when you are done for the day.. And for goodness sake leave the radio box lid and cowl of the boat for a few days if you are not going to be running it again for some time.
If I think of anything else I will up date the post.
Mike Z
Setup:
Motor:
Please FOLLOW THE START procedure the first time you start your boat...
I have found that about 7/8 needle on the HSN is about right for my altitude. 700'. You might have to adjust for your altitude. The higher your alt the more you might have to turn the needle in. (remember to run the boat closer to the factory settings during break in).
Start the motor with as low an idle as you can and still have the motor run. After the motor is running you can turn the idle up if you like. It just starts easer at a lower idle position (again this is done on your TX)
LSN is less picky and we have found the 2.5 turns is darn close for most operation.
Make sure to pickle your motor and WATER cooling system after you are done running the boat for the day.
Hardware:
To start set your trim plates level with the bottom of the boat. This seem to be about the best place to start with the 2 blade prop. Just a tad neg with the 3 blade.
Set the leading edge of your rudder 90 deg to the keel. If you feel the boat is getting to loose in the corers and maybe in the straits, you can tuck it under a few deg.
Set the strut at 0 and start testing there. I like this for both props as this works in most water conditions again with both props.
Turn fins just need to be level looking.. not all whacked out of shape.
RUN THE BOAT WITH THE COWL ON. If you blow your Rio 51 off the water it can save you from busting the glass work, we call that a hydraulic and its not to cool to have happen. I have done it on monos and hydros. so run the boat with the cowl on please. Make sure you snap the latches too.
Check to see that all the screws and parts are tight
Driving:
The Rio 51 handles like a dream. It turns as well at 20 as it does at 45. Just remember like ANY performance RC boat they ALL TURN BETTER TO THE RIGHT THEN THE LEFT.. so give yourself some room to turn left. In the videos on the Aquacraft website you can see the boat turn quite wll in both directions but if you want the best performance turn right.
The Steering servo in your boat as MORE enough power to turn you boat that is AS LONG AS YOUR RX BATS ARE GOOD. Check and replace your bats often to be save.. did you know that could mean every 3 runs or so.. yup.. you were having some much fun that you did not realize you were just running for an hour and a half..
Rough water.. HAVE AT IT.. its ALL GOOD..just remember you boat is going to take a tremendous beating in rough water. make sure you check every thing over and clean your boat when you are done for the day.. And for goodness sake leave the radio box lid and cowl of the boat for a few days if you are not going to be running it again for some time.
If I think of anything else I will up date the post.
Mike Z
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
Grim,
I like to add this.. when starting the motor . you need to make sure your Throttle trim is adjust so the carb is just a little open. if you have it open to much it alot harder to start. and when following the procedure for starting I found doing it twice then putting the plug back on mine starts on the 1st pull everytime ALWAYS
Just thought I share my experience also
I like to add this.. when starting the motor . you need to make sure your Throttle trim is adjust so the carb is just a little open. if you have it open to much it alot harder to start. and when following the procedure for starting I found doing it twice then putting the plug back on mine starts on the 1st pull everytime ALWAYS
Just thought I share my experience also
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
as long as the oil has been doing its job, there should be a coat of oil on all the parts inside after running... so you shouldnt have to put anything in the motor. To be safe or just precautious... you can use marvel mistory oil. I squirt a shot or two of corrosion x in mine if they are gonna sit for a while.
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
Mike the only thing id add to the list is if you run in salt water dont forget to flush the system with fresh water after your done, i use a container with silicone tubes through the lid filled with fresh water and i connect these to the cooling lines and flush through the system after every days running as i run in salt water.I also spray things down with wd 40 too and wash the hull with fresh water before storage.
mart
mart
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
I made a fitting to hook to my garden hose to flush the cooling systems . You can get the parts to make one at the hardware store . Also I use CRC 6-56 . It is a marine spray like wd-40 but it seems to work a little better . On long term storage(longer than a few months) you will want to run the fuel out of the carb ( run the motor until it runs out of fuel . Gas will gum up pretty quick sometimes and then you will have a clogged carb ! I also put a squirt of 2cycle oil in the jug , remove the plug and put a squirt in and pull the rope a couple times .If your fuel tank is empty when storing , before you run the boat again check the fuel tank for water before filling with fuel . Sometimes you will get condensation in the tank over time when it is empty of fuel.
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
Cylinder "fogging oil" works great for long term storage. It does a nice job coating the clyinder walls and bearings, keeping them in great shape. I have a 10 year old Pro-Mod Homelite that has been stored on-off sometimes a couple years at a time, and still runs great with this procedure. Just remove spark plug, spray a thorough coat around the cylinder, turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil in the bottom end, replace plug, tape off intake and exhausts, and you're ready for storage.
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
Another good tip when done for the day. Unplug your receiver battery. This insures your on-board system is off and keeps the contacts in good shape.
When getting into this habit it will also make you at least look in the radio box to be sure everything is OK. Remember, RTR boats and cars come ready to run, but are not self maintaining
Have fun!
Russ
When getting into this habit it will also make you at least look in the radio box to be sure everything is OK. Remember, RTR boats and cars come ready to run, but are not self maintaining
Have fun!
Russ
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
some auto parts stores have it . I get mine at the marine/boat store . Also I use engine tuner . It will remove carbon deposits from the motor and exhaust .
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
Grim what about sealing the wood? Did any body do this to there
Rio? I was thinking about epoxying the wood to seal it but didnt want to take the boat apart until i run it first. Does alot of water get in the hull?
Rio? I was thinking about epoxying the wood to seal it but didnt want to take the boat apart until i run it first. Does alot of water get in the hull?
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RE: Set Up and Driving Tips for your Rio 51
ORIGINAL: Grimracer
web,
You pickle the motor by choking it.. the cooling system with WD-40.
Mike Z
web,
You pickle the motor by choking it.. the cooling system with WD-40.
Mike Z