How good CCRC 45
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I bought a CMP 330 Extra L and am in need of a gasser. I felt that at $16.00 a gallon for fuel (glow) I better look in to a cheaper fuel source. I'm on my second go around for heart surgery and money is tight. I'm looking at the VERY BEST bang for my buck in a 50 cc gasser and quite frankly am a stark raving newby at gas. Guys, I need your advise, I've read the post on the CCRC 46 and see it go both ways, good and not-so-good. I'd really like a DL 50 but I might as well ask for the moon. My hospital bills dictate I beat, stretch and mangle every cent I spend. And before some wise guy says I shouldn't be in the hobby if things are that tight, all I can say is that RC and the people I meet are the only thing that keeps me from losing my mind..end of story. All in all, is the CCRC brand worth my time, it has to last. Thanks for any help you can provide. Joe
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if you want longevity and reliability you want a zenoah g-45. it simply cant be beat for lasting many years of use. a suggestion to look into.good luck with your health.
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Sorry aboutn the CCRC engines size, your right it is a 45 and not a 46...ah brain fade! "540" I have been scoping out the 45 and the only thing that bothers me is that most of the people that I have spoken with say the Zenoahs are heavy, true or untrue? I know that the Zenoah line has a very good rep but even the used ones are kind of pricey. I posted this thread to get this kind of feedback, I'm sure everybody has their own "fan favorite" and thats the kind of responces I need. Alot of good opinions helps making the choice alot easier. Thanks guys. Joe
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Go to www.BCMAengines.com and check out the 40 that Adam offers. I have one in a GP 27% CAP 232 (79" wingspan) and it flies it great. BTW Adam's service is second to none.
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I have a CRRC Pro 45, and a Thor 45I. Basically the same engine. The Thor came with a much better manual, and better ignition. Both come with a nice muffler, tools, stand-offs, mounting bolts with the blind nuts (nice touch), and a shielded plug wire with a metal cap. The CRRC Pro 45 has a fixed timing ignition box (don't like that). Both come with non resistor plugs and these need to be replaced. Also, they have 10M X 1.5 threads on the prop shaft. True turn doesn't make an adapter to fit that thread. I don't know why they didn't use the more common 10M X 1.25. I replaced the OEM prop bolt with one from Lowes, then drilled and tapped it for the spinner bolt (took three trys to get it perfectly straight). Works fine. I also drill through the back of the seat for the muffler retaining nut housing, so a longer bolt can be used. Then I used red thread-lock to install the muffler bolts.
They have two piston rings and Walbro carbs. When you open the plastic they are wrapped in, you can smell the gas and are obviously ran at the factory before being packed and shipped. They require little if any adjustment, right out of the box. All in all, for what they can be bought for (I paid around $200 or less) for each, they are quite a bargain, IMO, and worth the little extra work to make the necessary improvements. They start easy and run well with good throttle response and power. They are about as light as they can be as well. Time will tell if they will last as long as a Zenoah. Used properly, and with proper cooling, I think it is hard to wear out any gas engine. Crashes are much more likely to do one in.
They have two piston rings and Walbro carbs. When you open the plastic they are wrapped in, you can smell the gas and are obviously ran at the factory before being packed and shipped. They require little if any adjustment, right out of the box. All in all, for what they can be bought for (I paid around $200 or less) for each, they are quite a bargain, IMO, and worth the little extra work to make the necessary improvements. They start easy and run well with good throttle response and power. They are about as light as they can be as well. Time will tell if they will last as long as a Zenoah. Used properly, and with proper cooling, I think it is hard to wear out any gas engine. Crashes are much more likely to do one in.
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I would keep an eye on the want ads here on RCU. I just picked up a US 41 engine for $140.00 shipped. You might be able to find a deal as well. Remember the mounts and mufflers can add up to a lot as well with these and usually used these are included. It is kind of fun to watch and window shop anyway when you are in the market for something. Good luck. I think you will like gas.
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Here's my $.02 worth. If a 45cc engine is what you are looking for, go with the Brillelli 46GT ($375) includes muffler and ignition. Scott at Brillelli engines is a great guy to deal with and sells excellent engines. Stay away from the cheap Chinese engines and the overweight G-45 Zenoah (yes will last forever but too heavy)
I'm sure some here will disagree with me, but you will never regret going with Brillelli,
What I mean by cheap Chinese engines is: CRCC 45, Thor 45. The 3MM 53 and DL-50 do not fall in that group.
I'm sure some here will disagree with me, but you will never regret going with Brillelli,
What I mean by cheap Chinese engines is: CRCC 45, Thor 45. The 3MM 53 and DL-50 do not fall in that group.
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Don't confuse a couple options as meaning you are getting a good deal or a quality engine. The couple of Thor 45's I've seen flying locally have been nothing but trouble and in the long run have cost more than if the owners would have just bought a quality engine from the start.
The bottom line is, I couldn't care less what other people spend their hard earned money on, I am only trying to give information based on my experience.
Looking thru the internet I see that the Thor 45 is now selling for $299, the Brillelli 46 GT sells for $375, both come with ignition and muffler. There is no way you can put the 2 engines in the same class for only a difference of $75. The guy who started this thread claims that money and health are huge issues. IMO the last thing he needs is to spend $299 on a engine that has a good chance of being unreliable. If need be, save for an extra month or 2 and buy a quality engine, your experience in gas engines will be much more pleasant.
The bottom line is, I couldn't care less what other people spend their hard earned money on, I am only trying to give information based on my experience.
Looking thru the internet I see that the Thor 45 is now selling for $299, the Brillelli 46 GT sells for $375, both come with ignition and muffler. There is no way you can put the 2 engines in the same class for only a difference of $75. The guy who started this thread claims that money and health are huge issues. IMO the last thing he needs is to spend $299 on a engine that has a good chance of being unreliable. If need be, save for an extra month or 2 and buy a quality engine, your experience in gas engines will be much more pleasant.
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My next 'new' engine will be a DL 50. I'd much rather have one of those for $300 to $389 at the most, than the less powerful side carbed Brillelli for the same money. I'm not knocking the Brillelli as it continues to get good reviews, but it is not the best value out there IMO. I could have had a DL 50 for $295 a couple days ago but got home too late and missed the 'buy it now'. Nutts! However, I own a Thor and a CRRC. I'm not going on hearsay or second hand talk. I know these engines are basically sound. They start easily and run reliably. RF is an issue till you install a resistor plug, unless you use 24 gz. The latest versions of these engines are much better than the original version, which is what your friend may have had. They continue to take what they learn from the consumer and make improvements. There are guys running them with good success as well. If you want to get right down to it, you could go to the net and find a good used 3W, FPE, or maybe even a DA, and have an engine already broke in and much better than anything we have mentioned. Fact is, I don't think there is a single brand that some one hasn't had trouble with and wrote about in the forums. Many times it is the operator, not the engine.
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My take on the inexpensive engines is maybe not a great choice unless you are a true gearhead the ones I've seen had not had the intake and exhaust chamfered and a few other things that could use some attention
They seem to run ok not the most powerful in the class but I haven't had the time to mess with the ports yet so I can't say there's not some power there
But if you want turn key best look to some of the more popular choices that have a proven record
If the crank and rods hold up ok the other might be a good home improment project that doesn't require all the work of a conversion
I'm going to take some measurements on my ports and might shave the case and piston to raise the ports and bump the compression a little
They seem to run ok not the most powerful in the class but I haven't had the time to mess with the ports yet so I can't say there's not some power there
But if you want turn key best look to some of the more popular choices that have a proven record
If the crank and rods hold up ok the other might be a good home improment project that doesn't require all the work of a conversion
I'm going to take some measurements on my ports and might shave the case and piston to raise the ports and bump the compression a little
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My take on the inexpensive engines is maybe not a great choice unless you are a true gearhead the ones I've seen had not had the intake and exhaust chamfered and a few other things that could use some attention
They seem to run ok not the most powerful in the class but I haven't had the time to mess with the ports yet so I can't say there's not some power there
But if you want turn key best look to some of the more popular choices that have a proven record
If the crank and rods hold up ok the other might be a good home improment project that doesn't require all the work of a conversion
I'm going to take some measurements on my ports and might shave the case and piston to raise the ports and bump the compression a little
My take on the inexpensive engines is maybe not a great choice unless you are a true gearhead the ones I've seen had not had the intake and exhaust chamfered and a few other things that could use some attention
They seem to run ok not the most powerful in the class but I haven't had the time to mess with the ports yet so I can't say there's not some power there
But if you want turn key best look to some of the more popular choices that have a proven record
If the crank and rods hold up ok the other might be a good home improment project that doesn't require all the work of a conversion
I'm going to take some measurements on my ports and might shave the case and piston to raise the ports and bump the compression a little