naynay12

Well as thunderbird said in my other thread to get some washers for the fly nut,and to sand the anodizing off the new clutch shoes in the new lrp i thought i would take the clutchbell allen key nut off(to take the clutchbell off).And it wont come off.It had about a drop of red locktite on it(my lhs says to use red lock tite).I have tried everything even went to a hardware shop.I have tried hard to take the allen key screw with an allen key,so have others,the allen kep thread head is almost rounded now.I have tried gripping the side of the alllen key with vice grips etc,with no success,since the screw side is rounded.
My options are:

1.Warm up the screw with a hair dryer(thoough the temps will have to get really got)

2.Somehow file doen the metal bushing so that it is square so i can get enough grip with vice grips to undo the screw.

3.An easy out wil probably not work(i will have to get it 0.5mm down and exact,to far will strip the thread,and even that wont have enough grip.

So anyone got any ideas?Im leaning towards number 2.

Nathan9492

Get a hacksaw, and make a little slit in the Screw, big enough for a flatehead screwdriver to fit in, and wallah

DaveG55

Red loctite = bad idea
Red locktite requires 250 + degrees to break free. It's what I use on the impellers on my jet skies. I have to use a blow tourch to get it hot enough to release.
Only use blue loctite on rc's, it's more than strong enough for rc use.

You might try getting a slightly larger allan wrench and forcing it to go into the stripped out screw (tap it in with a hammer). If you (or your dad) have access to a small butane torch (or even a mapp gas torch) then I'd use that to heat the screw before trying to turn that screw again
Personally I think you may end up having to drill that screw out and getting a new cb.

Hordsak

I would wrap the flywheel in a few layers of towles (towel folded over) and put it in a vice. Then I would first try pounding in a larger sized allen key (like previously posted) and see what happens. Failing that, I would get a pair of high quality vice grips, and crank em down, and even if the head was rouned, I know myself that I could remove it. Failing that of course, dremel or use a hacksaw to cut a flat head screwdriver slit.

naynay12

Thanks guys!Just as i warpped it with a towel in the vice i thought i may try using vice grips on the side of the screw first and wallah!It worked. I suppose the guy at bunnings had no idea,he tried getting it out with a few different typed of vice grips!
So i have done what thinderbirdjunkie said,to put a shim behind the flywheel nut,i put on about 2mm washer,so the spring is just about straight .But when i put the clutchbell on i can see the shoes by about just a bit over 1mm is that ok?
Also the clutchbell is suppose to have around 0.05mm of play,and it has none.But my main thing is that since that there is no play the clutchbell is not free.Will i have to file down the spacer,or get rid of the washer or something else?I know its alot of problems but please are with me!

This is how the spring was previously without a washer,it is now basically straight,and sitting in the groove.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...Picture098.jpg

azzman

I wouldnt be happy with seeing 1mm (or any of my shoes) past the clutchbell, get yourself some shims or washers that are thinner (shims!) so that you have all the adjustment you need. Also you do need that play in the bell because when it heats up it may get tighter and heat up/bind your bearings, resulting in premature bearing failure.
I also make a point of using only CAP screws on my clutchbell not button head, makes it way easier to remove if something goes wrong...

BTW how your springs were sitting in that pic (slight angle) looks fine to me.

naynay12

Yep ok,i suppose,ill have to take it apart for the 4th time,and ill put a shim half the size...today i will also buy some BLUE locktite!
I had to turn the lrp carb around,is that ok?

Vigilante212

I dont know why people use loctite on that screw it has never come loose on me in 8 gallons of running and I just snug it tight. The direction the motor turns keeps the screw tight

jombo

if 1mm is showing whats gonna happen it will wear with a groove at the end of the clutchbell (not good) get the right shimms as azzman said