hornetnz

Hi everyone!
I've been doing rc for nearly 10 years, but because of school and finances haven't yet delved into bigger&better airplanes. I bought a nice looking ARF from flyboy models of an Edge 540. 75" wingspan. Have an OS 160 FX engine and futaba 6XA for it. However, the directions for the plane assembly are SEVERELY lacking. I've contacted the guy @ flyboy models, and unfortunately found out that hes not a builder, and has never built the kit...so he was no help whatsoever. So, on with the questions already...

- Whats the best way to setup the servos/radio for dual-servo ailerons? Was thinking a Y adapter, but that would make them both go same direction, right?
- And almost same question, best setup method for dual-servo elevator? flip one around, reversing cable, or separate channels?
- I noticed on the engine manual for the preferred prop sizes, that they specify sizes for Aerobatic and Sport. Can someone tell me the difference?
- Also, can anyone recommend a good size for this plane&engine?
Aerobatic: 15x12-14, 16x10-14, 16.5x10-13
Sport: 17x10-13, 18x10-12
- The directions dont specify how far over from center the firewall block is supposed to go, is there a general measurment I can use here?

I have some of the pages of the directions scanned that I can upload if needed. Might help answer that last one.

Thanks in advance.

hornetnz

Heres the scans

KCJarman

I can answere a few of them for you.

Y connector works fine. Don't worry, they will work in the propper directions. Orient the servos the same direction in both wings. Connect the push rod to the opposite side of each servo horn. One will push the other will pull. Once you get it all layed out in the wing... It make sence.

I would use a Match Box on the elevator servo's. If I remember correctly, the 6XH is not set up for duel servo opperation. It is critticle that the elevator servo's push and pull the same amount or you will get differential throw and that can be very, very bad.

As far a prop size.. you will get various oppinions.... I would break the engine in on the same prop you pan on flying most. I would fly a 16x8 on that plane with that engine..... Fast engine response and it will pull plenty. It won't fly extremely fast either. Do NOT over lean the engine..... Run it serveral hundred RPM less from static peak RPM.

You will have to mock up your engine to the engine mount and try to center the Prop Shaft on the main fire wall center marks.... That is Why they do not give you a measurement..... Each engine has a different Prop Shaft center height. If I am not mistaken.... OS gives you this measurement in the Engine manual. You want the bottom of the motor mount to shaft center.... that is how far you will offset the motor mount from the center line.

Hope all that helps.... I am sure some others will wiegh in......

rcairflr

My Feedback: (44)

When I was flying glow airplanes, the best prop I found for the OS 160fx was APC 18x6W, try it, you won't be disappointed.

hornetnz

Thanks KCJ, I had a big DUH moment when you mentioned putting the servo arm on opposite sides. I must need more coca-cola!
I will definitely look at the OS directions for that measurement, thx for the suggestion.

If you look at the bottom of the page 1 scan...I drew the fireblock pieces it came with. I'm not sure which ones I'm to use. The picture *looks* like they used 2 or 3 of the square pieces with center hole. But the parts bag has 3 square with center hole, 1 rectangle with tab and slot, and one triangle stock piece. Can anyone suggest what to use here?

Also, is it worth it to get digital servos over regular? Are regular speed/torque servos ok for this size of a plane? Was looking at the Futaba S3151 flight pack.

sortie

Hi hornetnz,
I am so glad you are asking this question about dual elevator servos. I am currently researching on how to set these up and looking for any input. I know how to plug my ailerons into seperate channels to keep them off a y connector, but having no more open channels, I am wondering if putting the elevator servos on a reversing y connector is the proper thing to do.
I am also moving up into larger aircraft and am finding many great tips on these forums.This is your thread so I won't ask any questions to confuse your responses, but will be eagerly reading these posts
Warren

hornetnz

Glad im not the only one, sortie! A buddy told me to use a Y with reverser instead of flipping a servo or arm around, so the angles are the same. And that coincides with what KCJ said too. (matchbox=reverser) Feel free to ask your questions too, we could make this into a general big scale faq thread.

Hooked-On-RC

My Feedback: (16)

well you can in fact use a matchbox as a reverser and reverse one servo versus the other HOWEVER, that means to say you are now runing the current of two servos off of one reciever channel unless you plug in a seperate battery lead inot the matchbox and power the servos that way...that could work for your ailerons, however I would make sure you use seperate channels for elevators...greater adjustability that way!

hornetnz

I never thought of having power issues with 2 servos on one channel. Can anyone else confirm that?
Also, Im not sure my 6XA radio has the functionality to put elevators on separate channels.

BaldEagel

If you are rearly serious about getting into bigger planes, you need to get a Tx that will allow dual aileron servos and dual elevator servos off different channels, Y leads do not allow you to sub trim the servo's into the ideal centre position or match movements, match boxes are over kill on anything under 50cc and just add weight.

The bus bar in a Rx will take up too 20amps the problem comes about with the plugs on normal servo's which can only take about 3 : 4 amps when you start to get into large servo's they can draw as much as 7 amps each (JR8711) or Hitec 5955's which will pull 4 amps these would severly over tax a Y lead.

What servo's are you using?

Mike

BaldEagel

Just saw your previous post re servo's, the Futaba S3151 and S3152 would be fine on this size aircraft use the higher touque on the rudder and higer speed on elevator and aileron, you could also use Hitec 625 and 645 or the Hitec digital equivilant good servo's and metal gears, I can not reccomend JR servo's as they have a plastic gear wear problem.

Mike

hornetnz

Thanks BE. So since I got a mixed message there...3151/3152 are fine and a Y with reverser for elevator should be ok since they're not large servos?

Also a few more random questions popped into my head.
- The metal bar that slides into the fuse and both wings...does that need to be glued into the fuse?
- How many screws is best to attach the cowl? Directions show 4, but Id think a few more wouldnt hurt.
- Ive been looking for prismatic/holographic silver tape or covering that I've seen on some other planes, but im unable to find it online. Anyone know where to get it?
- What size recv batt to use? Was looking at getting servo flight pack from servo city, but dont know what size batt is best for dig servos.

KCJarman

Glad I could be of some help.... hope this helps too....

Do not..... glue the wing tube into the fuse..... it is there as a guide... if the tube has a little play in it you can use small strips of tape to take up the gap.... but you do not want it fixed....

4 screws is sufficiant..... Just make sure that after you have everything in place you use a little thin CA in the screw holes... This will help them from getting stripped over time....

http://www.hilaunch.com/ Has reflective tape for wing edges.... not sure if that is what your refereing too....

As far a battery's..... go as big as yo can afford in weight and price..... I like 4200 HydriMax cells. I use them in my heli's and my 50cc's. Don't spend the money on LiPo batteries..... you'r not building an IMAC or 3D plane here...... save some cash and spend it on fuel.

sortie

hornetnz
I have been looking at dual battery setups and think they are a good idea for the larger performance we are looking into. Here is a link to an excellent writeup and skematic..Hope this works
http://web.archive.org/web/200404020...allelbatt.html
Also, can anyone educate us on the A123 batteries that seem to becoming popular...
Warren

MikeEast

My Feedback: (3)

Yep me too, that is the right prop especially if you are wanting to fly 3D with the OS1.60FX. I have tried it in wood and APC and both worked well.

MikeEast

My Feedback: (3)

For this size plane you really do not need dual batteries. In a plane of this size the added 4-6 pounces of weight is a lot.

I would use at least 2000 MAH Nickel Metal Hydride pack for an application like yours. It should be plenty. You are not going to be using 5955's or 8711's in this plane,,, at least I hope not becuase its way way way WAY overkill. You only need a servo that produces about 150-180 ounces if you are going to fly 3D, and even that is a little more than you really need.

As far as setting up dual elevators a reversing Y harness will work just fine on that plane with the servos you will be using. The thing that concerns me is your apparent lack of experience, which is not bad you will just need some help, and the importance of good setup techniques. It is not hard at all to setup dual elevator servos but there are some critical points during the control horn and servo installations that will make or break your setup. Your control horn locations need to be very precise so that the center of the hinge point on the control horns is located PRECISELY over the center of the elevator hingeline. The control horns also need to be located at the EXACT same distance out from the fuse side. And finally if you are using adjustable height control horns the hinge point needs to be the exact same height on each side. If you get the elevators hinged with the same gap(ideally about 1-2mm gap) and you get those control horns set up properly you will make things a WHOLE lot easier on yourselfn down the road.

BaldEagel

Yes No problems with these servo's in this size plane, personnaly I don't like Y leads or servo reverser's, but do what you must to get it flying with your set up, don't forgett to shrink wrap the servo extention leads or use clip retainers on the plugs.

To get your surface horns in the right place have a look at this link: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7203928/tm.htm its for dual horns, but the principle is the same, the template to do this is pictured halfway down the thread.

Mike

hornetnz

Thanks a bunch everyone for the help. I'll be ordering my radio gear when I get back from the Bahamas [8D] in April.

The only question I have remaining from above is what firewall pieces to use. Any suggestions there would be greatly appreciated.

hornetnz

bump

BaldEagel

Have a look at this thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7299795/tm.htm you can near enought guarantee the problem is the Y lead at the tail end giving this problem.

Mike

hornetnz

Wrong thread BE? Im not having issues with elevator interference.

BaldEagel

I know you are not, but if you read the thread you will see how many problems are associated with Y leads.

Mike

hornetnz

Ok got my radio gear finally, woot! Started installing the servos tonight and ran into an issue. The premade spots for the elevator servos in the tail region are back far enough that it does not allow both servos to sit flush against the fuse. The servos are too deep (or the fuse isnt thick enough). I mounted one, and put the opposite side in to find that the end of the servo towards the tail-end is 1/8" off of the fuse. Should I glue in a lil 1/8" ply square for the one side? Or maybe a 1/16" piece on both sides?