Bpecue

ive gone through 3 spur gears in my new savage x 4.6. ive read on how to make sure that the clutch bell and spur gear line up right and it still just wont work for me! does anyboyd have any tricks or tips i could use to solve this problem.

also, how do i make the carbeuator not be slid open so far so it doesnt idel so high?

thanks to all who reply

BPQ

twomanytoys

As for the idle you have an idle screw, linkage and throttle trims. All need to be set before running.Your book will explain everything. Is this a new truck or used? You also need to set your slipper clutch so it wont put so much stress on the spur. Check all your engine mounts, tranny screws etc...

Bpecue

k, i figured as much on the idle but the spur gears r still getting to me. i can seem to find that sweet spot. it seems like the CB is to close or to far away. i went and bought 5 of them when the first one went just in case another did and ever since i changed it it just doesnt want to work right. is there a specific torque that is suppost to be on the spring holding on the spur gear?

and ya, i just bought this truck off of the guy i work with, i already have a savage .25 ss and i couldnt get enough of it, ive had it for two years and have had a blast with it, so i figured id upgrade to this and am amazed at how nice of a truck it is.

god i love RC

twomanytoys

The spur should not strip that easy unless the engine plate is bent, motor mount is loose, tranny is loose. As for the slipper spring tighten the nut all teh way and back off about 1/8 turn. As for the gear mesh you should have a very very tiny bit of play. Not too much and not to tight. If you can hold teh bell and get very slight movement with teh spur then you should be good. Can you post some pics of your setup as far as clutch bell and stuff. Maybe someone can point something out by the pics. Did you use the paper method?

Bpecue

k, ill take some pics and post them up, probly not till tomorrow.

paper method? whats that?

ThunderbirdJunkie

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CRAPPY CLUTCH!

BrandonFox28

You could go steel and not worry about if your mesh is perfect or not. You won't strip a spur anymore. IMO, steel is the way to go but a lot of people prefer plastic. But if you're going through so many plastics, you might as well upgrade.

ThunderbirdJunkie

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Or just go aluminum clutch shoes, and save money on spurs, because a poorly meshed steel spur will start eating CB's...

BrandonFox28

Not necessarily, if they are both Robinson steel you'll have no problem. I haven't. I'm not sure about HPI steel spurs and CB's. Also, the aluminum clutches wear way too fast, IMO. The carbon fiber Mugens are what my LHS recommends.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

I've never had any luck with any carbon shoes whatsoever.

Aluminum Mugens last me great, as did the Losi LST2 shoes I ran.

BrandonFox28

Yeah, I've only tried aluminum once so I'm not too sure on that matter.

BudBud

The first place I would look is at the Engine mount plate and the two cross braces for the engine mount. Especially if you have done the flip over onto the cylinder head action. Next I would make sure the clutch bell bearings were in good shape. The brakes dragging? If they are the clutch can get hot and smoke the spur. Clutch shoes and final gear ratio also play a role. If you recently put on tall tires and did not change the bell or spur ratio, that can cause clutch slipping problems. The slipper clutch needs to be tight. I normally run the composite clutch shoes with the vented clutch bell. It could be farther down the line, transmission or differential issues can cause the clutches to get hot. If your truck is set up correctly everyplace else, that plastic spur will take a lot of abuse for a long time. I used the Robinson gears to get the 46T spur. My luck with them was less than great, I had better luck with the plastic gear. The Hpi steel gear seems to be very tough. I think it is made of a good quality steel and the Robinson seemed like it was cast. I kept breaking huge chunks of the teeth out of the Robinson spurs. I would solve the other problem before I tried hiding behind a metal spur. As far as mesh goes, I set them just loose enough that you can rattle the spur against the bell. You should be able to flick the spur gear with your finger and have it spin the spur and bell. If it does not, you are too tight. Bud

Jaybo

there's two screws that connect the tranny with the motor plate. i was having alot of spur problems until i noticed i didn't have screws there. not sure if i forgot to put them back in at some point, or if they just were never there. but putting those screws in fixed my problem. just an idea for something to look at

Bpecue

Thanks for your adivce budbud. im going to switch out the spur gear and check on the engine mounts and how they are lining up. a couple other questions that ive heard but i dont know if they are myths or not but, i figured someone should be able to answer me

is it alright to be running 15% airplane fuel through the 4.6 motor? my dad flies model airplanes and i have been stealing gas off of him and i was curious if this was alright.

also, whenever i seem to run my truck i think it is getting way to hot. smoke pours out from around the exhuast gasket and as soon as i shut it off i hear a almost boiling sound coming out of the carb. just curious if this was alright or not. how can i get it to cool down and still get the same power from the motor?

BudBud

That sounds like you are getting too hot, that sound you hear is the fuel boiling away inside the engine. I never tried less than 30 in a big block, so I am not of any help there. I always run 30, 33 or 35 percent fuel. I have read guys posting that they run fuel with no nitro in it and it makes little difference. Does not sound right to me, but I never tried it. I am betting your engine temperatures are well over 300. Bud

Bpecue

so what do i do to cool it down?

twomanytoys

Well first off airplane fuel is not good for your engine. Its very high in oil and oil burns at a higher temp than nitro so yes your engine will get hot and not run well. You need to run regular nitro fuel with no more than 12% oil and 20-30% nitro. Dont use the airplane fuel. Once you use regular nitro your temps will go down and you will have to retune. Using airplane fuel really limits the power output of your engine.

cpwshf

I recently got back in Nitro R/C trucks after 6 years and have a stock Savage 4.6(bought it new a few weeks ago). Tonight while I was running my truck over some small jumps on a dirt/grass track I made, once I landed pretty hard on the engine guard(Stock one) and scratched the cooling head heat sink. A few minutes later the engine just reved and my truck wouldn't move. The spur gear is all sorts of chewed up, it also looked like the spur gear was warped when it was spun. I have a new HPI HD spur gear I put on(also replacing the clutch bell and shoes with HPI HD stuff), but before I put everything back together I noticed that when I spin the spur gear, there's still a wobble,and it's not the new spur gear. I ended up taking apart the upper center gearbox , what I found is that the slipper clutch is slightly bent, but everything else looks fine. I checked to make sure the motor mount screws were still tight, no problem there, engine plate is not bent, and the crossbars are not damaged either.


When you replace your spur gear and spin it, does it look like there any wobbling? My guess would be that maybe something else could of been damaged and that caused the spur gear to get chewed up.

It kinda sucks for me, as I have had this for about 2 weeks now, and I really don't beat on the Savage , [:@](ok, ok, that much)but it's time to go order some parts (local HS doesn't stock parts and it usually takes at least a week before they get the parts in).

Savage Reaper

ive had the same problem as you. the spring that goes on the spur gear has to be perfectly centered on the nut or it will wobble.

black mamba

I cringe when I see people running airplane fuel in car/truck engines. Slap, slap, slap.