HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
09-10-2008, 07:02 PM
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HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
I have the entire CNC upgrade package for a new HBK II that comes with no illustrations, etc. I see many pics and vids on here and I think I can likely install it all by reviewing those and looking at my original HBK II which is mostly intact (RIP). Would be helpful if there were any drawings, closeups, diagrams that I could reference during the conversion. Have the Owenr's Manual of course as well...
Thanks!
Scott
Thanks!
Scott
09-10-2008, 08:05 PM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
not to let you down or anything
2 things I must warn you.
IF they are knock offs, throw away the tail upgrade
then make sure you put locktite on every metal on metal contact!
2 things I must warn you.
IF they are knock offs, throw away the tail upgrade
then make sure you put locktite on every metal on metal contact!
09-10-2008, 09:24 PM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
Ok, thnx. Was a HobbyCity deal if I recall. $75 or so. Diving into it on Sunday after NEAT Fair trip on Saturday.
http://www.neatfair.org
http://www.neatfair.org
09-10-2008, 09:41 PM
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09-11-2008, 12:06 AM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
Esky or counterfit ?
Fast way to tell is most (but not all) of the counterfit heads have light goldish colored balls whereas the Esky ones are silver.
The oweners manual has two mistakes in it concerning the cnc head the first is on the assy pic the washout is shown with the links upside down. If you look on the picture in buzsflyer second from the end the links are install correctly as they "point" in the direction that the head rotates, put them together incorrect and "stuff rubs"
The second is also in owners manual (and the picture in Buzzflyer) has a serious mistake in it for the cnc head. Where it shows the thrust washers installed in the head it is incorrect it Should read: the LARGE Aperture race goes on the inside and the SMALL aperture goes on the outside. The caged balls go with the full ball part towards the inside and the caged part (smooth part of the cage is on the outside towards the SMALL aperture. They show and note it backwards at least for the apertures.
The exploded drawing of the plastic head shows it correctly. To find which is the small and large aperture put each on a feathering shaft and wobble it the tight one is the small aperture. IF You put it together backwords you will find your tracking is constently moving as the blade holder is wobbleing up and down side to side etc. Not that you can see this by moving it by hand but the play is magnified down the length of the blade. The object is to remove the play in the blade holders NOT allow it to increase it at the ends of the feathering shaft.
Just another detail here, there are some small brass washers that go on the feathering shaft. Look carefully at the drawing and it is not well marked but the thin steel shims go against the "0" ring and the brass color washer is NOT really a washer but a convex disk that has the convex side TOWARDS the bearing in the blade holder. This is how they put a load on the center of the bearing so it runs true (or as true as can) on a threaded bolt, it also prevents the bearing from binding. This design is used throughout the head on ALL the bearings and control arm bearings. Convex or "bubble" side always towards the bearing. Makes sense when you think of it as if you put the convex side into the "0" ring it would expand the "0" ring and make it loose on the feathering shaft and we don't want that we want it tight as we can get it on the shaft.
The diminsions for the distance to the flybar paddles is not cast in stone as diff paddles will have diff diminsions for distance to the the head but it MUST the same distance on both sides.
There are two little silver cross slot screws at the top of the head one on each side, be sure they are loctited in securely they work loose even a little they cause all kinds of play in the head that is hard to track down till you know where to look.
Biggest offender is the tail for stripping out threads, I ended out retapping mine (using a bottoming tap) all to 2-56 and cutting my own bolts to length and fitting it all back together. Loctite tends to wear out threads if they are removed a lot so I do not use loctite on the 3 on the left side as I need to pull that plate to change my belt. I put a tiny lockwasher under them instead.
Sorry getting a little wordy here but it will save you a lot of headachs down the road with this head.
Fast way to tell is most (but not all) of the counterfit heads have light goldish colored balls whereas the Esky ones are silver.
The oweners manual has two mistakes in it concerning the cnc head the first is on the assy pic the washout is shown with the links upside down. If you look on the picture in buzsflyer second from the end the links are install correctly as they "point" in the direction that the head rotates, put them together incorrect and "stuff rubs"
The second is also in owners manual (and the picture in Buzzflyer) has a serious mistake in it for the cnc head. Where it shows the thrust washers installed in the head it is incorrect it Should read: the LARGE Aperture race goes on the inside and the SMALL aperture goes on the outside. The caged balls go with the full ball part towards the inside and the caged part (smooth part of the cage is on the outside towards the SMALL aperture. They show and note it backwards at least for the apertures.
The exploded drawing of the plastic head shows it correctly. To find which is the small and large aperture put each on a feathering shaft and wobble it the tight one is the small aperture. IF You put it together backwords you will find your tracking is constently moving as the blade holder is wobbleing up and down side to side etc. Not that you can see this by moving it by hand but the play is magnified down the length of the blade. The object is to remove the play in the blade holders NOT allow it to increase it at the ends of the feathering shaft.
Just another detail here, there are some small brass washers that go on the feathering shaft. Look carefully at the drawing and it is not well marked but the thin steel shims go against the "0" ring and the brass color washer is NOT really a washer but a convex disk that has the convex side TOWARDS the bearing in the blade holder. This is how they put a load on the center of the bearing so it runs true (or as true as can) on a threaded bolt, it also prevents the bearing from binding. This design is used throughout the head on ALL the bearings and control arm bearings. Convex or "bubble" side always towards the bearing. Makes sense when you think of it as if you put the convex side into the "0" ring it would expand the "0" ring and make it loose on the feathering shaft and we don't want that we want it tight as we can get it on the shaft.
The diminsions for the distance to the flybar paddles is not cast in stone as diff paddles will have diff diminsions for distance to the the head but it MUST the same distance on both sides.
There are two little silver cross slot screws at the top of the head one on each side, be sure they are loctited in securely they work loose even a little they cause all kinds of play in the head that is hard to track down till you know where to look.
Biggest offender is the tail for stripping out threads, I ended out retapping mine (using a bottoming tap) all to 2-56 and cutting my own bolts to length and fitting it all back together. Loctite tends to wear out threads if they are removed a lot so I do not use loctite on the 3 on the left side as I need to pull that plate to change my belt. I put a tiny lockwasher under them instead.
Sorry getting a little wordy here but it will save you a lot of headachs down the road with this head.
09-12-2008, 11:08 PM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
They are made to look like real Esky parts however.. their not. Esky does not package parts like that. The cnc parts always come carded in a bubble pack that says Esky on it. Also Esky does not sell a complete head, you have to buy the seperate components and make it yourself. nor do they sell the head with the tail.
On the left are counterfit parts, notice that in this case the bag is actually one long bag with several compartments (I used some of them so some bags are missing.
On the right is real Esky parts showing the bubble pack, ignore that loose bag on the top (only cnc head/tail compontents, motors, servos and gyros come in bubble packs like this as far as I know).
On the left are counterfit parts, notice that in this case the bag is actually one long bag with several compartments (I used some of them so some bags are missing.
On the right is real Esky parts showing the bubble pack, ignore that loose bag on the top (only cnc head/tail compontents, motors, servos and gyros come in bubble packs like this as far as I know).
09-14-2008, 08:45 AM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
ORIGINAL: funflier
They are made to look like real Esky parts however.. their not. Esky does not package parts like that. The cnc parts always come carded in a bubble pack that says Esky on it. Also Esky does not sell a complete head, you have to buy the seperate components and make it yourself. nor do they sell the head with the tail.
On the left are counterfit parts, notice that in this case the bag is actually one long bag with several compartments (I used some of them so some bags are missing.
On the right is real Esky parts showing the bubble pack, ignore that loose bag on the top (only cnc head/tail compontents, motors, servos and gyros come in bubble packs like this as far as I know).
They are made to look like real Esky parts however.. their not. Esky does not package parts like that. The cnc parts always come carded in a bubble pack that says Esky on it. Also Esky does not sell a complete head, you have to buy the seperate components and make it yourself. nor do they sell the head with the tail.
On the left are counterfit parts, notice that in this case the bag is actually one long bag with several compartments (I used some of them so some bags are missing.
On the right is real Esky parts showing the bubble pack, ignore that loose bag on the top (only cnc head/tail compontents, motors, servos and gyros come in bubble packs like this as far as I know).
Discard these so as not to waste my time trying to make them work?
09-14-2008, 05:41 PM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
they can work.
With a little bit of modification.
The problem is that they are only by a bit better than plastic in performance.
[IF the parts didn't unscrew themselves in the air and destroy your whole heli]
I would suggest you try to return it and use the money left from it to buy more plastic parts or buy REAL upgrades from
trusted dealers like www.ushobbysupply.com
from my experience.
I would personally upgrade to allign stuff/
With a little bit of modification.
The problem is that they are only by a bit better than plastic in performance.
[IF the parts didn't unscrew themselves in the air and destroy your whole heli]
I would suggest you try to return it and use the money left from it to buy more plastic parts or buy REAL upgrades from
trusted dealers like www.ushobbysupply.com
from my experience.
I would personally upgrade to allign stuff/
09-15-2008, 05:14 AM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
Well the price is usually hard to beat so I would just clean and loctite it together. I did it in about an hour the first time.
It just takes a bit of handwork to fit it together so it works correctly and the slop is take out of the system.
If you wanted to upgrade the head for price or less then the real Esky parts you can go with this from CNCH which is just a 7075 alloy copy of the stock head but with bearings throughout. Dumbdawg has one and so does Zimatosa and they can tell you about them. Workmanship is very good from what I have seen.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CNC/Categories
Also CNCH sells the7075 alloy Trex type head.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CategoriesThis head will take a bit of tinkering as you have to be able to set endpoints (travel) on the radio to work with the servos (which you would be upgrading).
Both heads sell for about 100-110$ which is pretty reasonable compared to the stock Esky component parts.
BTW Micro Heli also sells an upgrade but when you total it up it is about 180$ for a head that looks just like the 100$ head from cnch.
It just takes a bit of handwork to fit it together so it works correctly and the slop is take out of the system.
If you wanted to upgrade the head for price or less then the real Esky parts you can go with this from CNCH which is just a 7075 alloy copy of the stock head but with bearings throughout. Dumbdawg has one and so does Zimatosa and they can tell you about them. Workmanship is very good from what I have seen.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CNC/Categories
Also CNCH sells the7075 alloy Trex type head.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CategoriesThis head will take a bit of tinkering as you have to be able to set endpoints (travel) on the radio to work with the servos (which you would be upgrading).
Both heads sell for about 100-110$ which is pretty reasonable compared to the stock Esky component parts.
BTW Micro Heli also sells an upgrade but when you total it up it is about 180$ for a head that looks just like the 100$ head from cnch.
09-15-2008, 08:21 PM
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RE: HBK II CNC Upgrade - Assembly Diagrams?
ORIGINAL: funflier
Well the price is usually hard to beat so I would just clean and loctite it together. I did it in about an hour the first time.
It just takes a bit of handwork to fit it together so it works correctly and the slop is take out of the system.
If you wanted to upgrade the head for price or less then the real Esky parts you can go with this from CNCH which is just a 7075 alloy copy of the stock head but with bearings throughout. Dumbdawg has one and so does Zimatosa and they can tell you about them. Workmanship is very good from what I have seen.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CNC/Categories
Also CNCH sells the7075 alloy Trex type head.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CategoriesThis head will take a bit of tinkering as you have to be able to set endpoints (travel) on the radio to work with the servos (which you would be upgrading).
Both heads sell for about 100-110$ which is pretty reasonable compared to the stock Esky component parts.
BTW Micro Heli also sells an upgrade but when you total it up it is about 180$ for a head that looks just like the 100$ head from cnch.
Well the price is usually hard to beat so I would just clean and loctite it together. I did it in about an hour the first time.
It just takes a bit of handwork to fit it together so it works correctly and the slop is take out of the system.
If you wanted to upgrade the head for price or less then the real Esky parts you can go with this from CNCH which is just a 7075 alloy copy of the stock head but with bearings throughout. Dumbdawg has one and so does Zimatosa and they can tell you about them. Workmanship is very good from what I have seen.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CNC/Categories
Also CNCH sells the7075 alloy Trex type head.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...CategoriesThis head will take a bit of tinkering as you have to be able to set endpoints (travel) on the radio to work with the servos (which you would be upgrading).
Both heads sell for about 100-110$ which is pretty reasonable compared to the stock Esky component parts.
BTW Micro Heli also sells an upgrade but when you total it up it is about 180$ for a head that looks just like the 100$ head from cnch.
Thanks!! Great help as always!
Scott
