manofsteel

My Feedback: (2)

I just installed a ASP 61 2 stroke to a 60size trainer and am having problems setting this carberator to run correctly. New lines, clunk and tank. The problem is that I do not have the manual that comes with the engine (lost it). I have the main jet set at around 1 1/2 turns out from bottoming. Then it did not seem to suck in fuel. Then I set the idle screw out til it started to start, which the screw head was just about flush with the engine carb body......maybe 4 or so turns out. Then the engine started and it kept dieing out. So more turns out and the the engine ran, but a lot of oil residue came out of the carb. I closed the valve body to shut down the engine but it kept running. I tried to put my finger over the carb intake and it kept running....but then I got it to stop by stopping the spinner. So, can anyone help me out there or tell me what forum to go to?
Thanks
Jim

carrellh

I have an ASP 61. The "manual" that came with mine was a single sheet of paper with very little info.
ASP and Magnum are made in the same factory. There is a link to the Magnum manual, which is 8 pages, on the Hobby People site
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/210770.asp

Some of the symptoms you describe may be an air leak. Loosening the carburetor and pressing it in really hard while tightening could eliminate an air leak at the carburetor base.

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

The ASP carbs are some of the best out there. Simple just open the carb full, cover it with your thumb an flip the prop over until you see fuel go into the carb thru the fuel tubing Remove your thumb The fuel should stay put. If the fuel go back in to the carb the low end needle need to open some more. Open about 2 or 3 clicks at a time. The ASP carbs are sensitive . Repeat the opening of the carb and flipping the prop until the fuel stay put. Now that is your starting point. Now the 2 1/2 turns on the hi speed needle is a good starting point too. Now start the engine and tune the hi end to a misty exhaust ...NOT 4 cycle wet. Then fine tune the low end buy turning in the low end 2 clicks at a time, Until the transition is smooth. One more thing the ASP engines run best on 10% fuel. 15% is good if its cold out. makes the needles harder to tune in the summer. Good luck.

AERORICH73

Hi Manofsteel: My ASP .61 did not come with any instructions either from the e-bay seller. Guess my engine is different from yours as mine has a piston ring installed. I have not run the engine yet, but I do follow either Dave Gierke's Engine Guide book instructions for breaking in either type of engine, or Dar Zeelon's great method of engine break in which is on the RCU website somewhere. Your description of the running problem does sound like there is an air leak somewhere. There is a blow test for locating the amount of idle needle opening. Keep in mind that the idle mixture is adjusted after the high speed needle has been set. From what you have mentioned, it appears you have the high speed needle open to far. With the needle valve opened three turns from closed, and with the throttle at full open, the fuel should be drown from the fuel tank with the finger over the carb intake, and the prop spun over from right to left three or four times by hand. If it does not draw fuel, you can hook up another fuel tank with fuel in it, and try the priming test again. This will tell you whether the problem is with the engine, or your on board fuel tank system.

When I start a new engine on the test stand, I position the throttle opening about an 1/8th of an inch by eye ball. This should give me an above idle speed once the engine has started at the 3 open turns on the high speed needle valve. Usually the engine starts very rich which in an ABC engine should be leaned out just past the 4 cycle break into the rich 2 cycle area. A bit more info on whether this is a new engine, or ?
would help more in solving your run problems. Keep us informed on your progress.

BTW, PLEASE CONSIDER REMOVING A FUEL LINE FROM YOU ENGINE RATHER THAN USING THE SPINNER TO STOP THE ENGINE. YOUR FINGERS AND HAND ARE VERY IMPORTANT ITEMS TO KEEP IN NORMAL CONDITION.

[email protected]

manofsteel

My Feedback: (2)

Hi guys and thanks for all of the replies! It is still spitting out a lot of residue witht he low being 5 turns out and the hight at 2 1/2 out. Still can not get it to stop with the trottle all of the way closed! no air leaks in fuel line. Can not figure this one out. Yes, pinching the line is safer but .............. I know, I know I know hahahaha. Some times the Irish in me gets the best of me. Anyway, any more ideas of what is still wrong.......let me have it. At least it runs good......other than trying to clean up all of the residue and getting it to stop. Thanks again and I'm learning every time I read a reply. Jim

blvdbuzzard

Here is a down and dirty fast way to set the carb up. This is also the way I set up my ASP .61. Set the barrel opening at about 1/32 of an inch open. Just a tiny sliver is all you should see. Place a clean piece of fuel tubing on the fuel nipple. Close the low end all the way, be gentle. Now while blowing through the fuel tube, open the low end screw just until you feel and hear air coming out.

Now fill up the tank, start with the main open about 2 full turns. Start the engine and set the high end for good clean 2 stroke scream. Now go to idle and pinch the fuel line. Count to 3, does it continue to run? If so, close the low end 1/16 of a turn, go back to full power to clean it out and repeat until a good idle is reached. Now if you pinch the fuel line and you count to 1 and it raises in RPM or dies, open the the low end 1/16 of a turn and try again.

My ASP had been in and out of at least 10 planes. It does not have the most power, but it runs so well it is hard to beat. Idles all day, no rich/lean mid range. Just a great all around engine. I am running 10-15% Power master fuel with a 12X6 wood prop.


Dru.

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

Could be your low end needle is to rich or the O ring on the carb neck is not seated properly.... or the O ring on the low speed needle is shot. Sometimes the O ring on the needle looks good but its worn or damage hence causing an air leak.

rambler53

My Feedback: (494)

Same exact symptoms from a ASP 61 user at my field. He fixed it fast, with a FX .61! The o ring in the needle was the cause, as it was just stated. It's common on many brands, and you'll see fuel tubing used over the needle valve as a new seal. Air gets in, keeps it running. Some don't care about appearances and smear red RTV on the base of the carb and backplate too.