8ight-t engine break in
#1
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8ight-t engine break in
Hey everyone, I just got a 8ight-t rtr and wanted to know which engine break in method to use. The manual says to use the idle method however i've noticed most people are using the heat cycle method. What do you all use. Thanks.
#2
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RE: 8ight-t engine break in
Heat cycle is the best way to go. Idling will do more damage than anything. You can idle about half the first tank then start teh heat cycle. Its preffered and it works.
#3
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RE: 8ight-t engine break in
This is what I do:
1.) Take out glow-plug, look down in engine. Rotate flywheel, looking for the point at which the piston is at its bottom-most position. This is BDC, and where you want the engine to cool down during break-in. What I do is scratch a notch with a screwdriver or something at 3:00 on the flywheel. Then, after shutting the engine down, rotate the flywheel to 3:00 immediately, and let it cool completetly.. This is important for heat-cycling.
2.) So, start engine, let it sit there to make sure it idles. Take temps. If it's not getting up above 150 just sitting there. Blip the gas a TINY bit and drive it around in VERY slow figure-8's. The whole point is to get to about 200-220F, then shut it off, put the piston to BDC, and let it cool completely.. Break-in can be boring and take a long time, especially on a hot day(takes longer to cool...)
3.) Repeat 10 times or so... Then start tuning for performance. If the engine just won't get up towards 200 with the stock settings, I lean the HSN a tad til temps start going up. With heat cycling, it's all about the temps and the complete cooling down with the piston at BDC...
Google "Johnny cool guy engine break-in" or "new school engine break-in" and get the original text.... Mine is just kind of the sloppy version...
If your 8T is an RTR, then you've got the silver-headed Mach.. Awesome engine.. Runs well on an OS A5 plug...
1.) Take out glow-plug, look down in engine. Rotate flywheel, looking for the point at which the piston is at its bottom-most position. This is BDC, and where you want the engine to cool down during break-in. What I do is scratch a notch with a screwdriver or something at 3:00 on the flywheel. Then, after shutting the engine down, rotate the flywheel to 3:00 immediately, and let it cool completetly.. This is important for heat-cycling.
2.) So, start engine, let it sit there to make sure it idles. Take temps. If it's not getting up above 150 just sitting there. Blip the gas a TINY bit and drive it around in VERY slow figure-8's. The whole point is to get to about 200-220F, then shut it off, put the piston to BDC, and let it cool completely.. Break-in can be boring and take a long time, especially on a hot day(takes longer to cool...)
3.) Repeat 10 times or so... Then start tuning for performance. If the engine just won't get up towards 200 with the stock settings, I lean the HSN a tad til temps start going up. With heat cycling, it's all about the temps and the complete cooling down with the piston at BDC...
Google "Johnny cool guy engine break-in" or "new school engine break-in" and get the original text.... Mine is just kind of the sloppy version...
If your 8T is an RTR, then you've got the silver-headed Mach.. Awesome engine.. Runs well on an OS A5 plug...
#4
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RE: 8ight-t engine break in
i 100% agree with heat cycle, before you fire up the engine make it a little easier for the parts to spin over by putting a few drops of oil (after run or fuel) manually into the carb and the glow plug opening, then turn the engine over by hand, that way the engine will be slightly lubed before it is started for the first time. I used heat cycle with good results, tip, better to take your time than blow the engine really quick []