spoonrc

What is a good weight to run in my front and rear diffs?
Will I need to put a heavier weight in the front or can I run 35K all round?

In the middle I am going to run 500K.

I am running a .18TZ-TX with 15/38T gearing. Forward only and center diff installed.

spoonrc

No one knows?

motormouth27

I use 500 weight you can use anything you want it depends on what you do with it.

madmaxx1

i run 30k in the front, 50k in the rear and OFNA clear diff lock in the cd

motormouth27

+1 30 and 50 are a good combo I have seen a lot of guys using it.

NitroVenom

You want 50k up front and 20k in the rear. You need 50k up front to keep tire balooning to a minimum and allow the front tires to pull through the truck through the turns. I am also running an 18tz but without the CD and I am running 14/38 gearing. This set-up is the best for the track.

Picco_Revo27

What is the point in having a CD if you are just going to lock it? that's pointless lol

NitroVenom

Well your not really going to lock it up completely. So there will always be a distribution of power more twoards the front tires, meaning less wheelies.

madmaxx1

dunno 'bout you guy's but i like a 4wd that does it's drivin' with the rear's and steering with the front's! if i wanted FWD action i'd race electric's

the "diff lock" doesn't actually lock the diff, it just make's it work! lol

quadracer111

My Feedback: (1)

Would your setup be good with a center diff with diff lock in it?

keithinspace

OFNA makes a series of products called "Diff Lock"...just different weight silicone differential fluid.

Then they sell a little white canister that is also called "Diff Lock", but it is probably just very thick differential fluid. Strange they don't give a weight. I put 500k in mine and it was nearly solid. I used toothpicks to "shove" the 500k into the diff itself and actually broke several toothpicks off doing so...not by anything other than the resistance of the 500k fluid. Nasty stuff.

An open center diff is useless on this type of truck. With the 100k from the factory, it may as well be open...WAY too much power wasted through front wheel spinning.

It is my understanding that the REVO Platinum shipped with a center diff and 500K fluid within. I guess they eventually got it...

madmaxx1

the clear diff lock is roughly equal to 700k weight IIRC and the green (which i also have) is equivalent to 300K IIRC i had to use a smalll flat blade screwdriver to get it into the cd! lol

the platinum did ship with 500k in the cd

Novarider

I don't have a center diff but I would like to know what weight oil I should run in my front and rear diffs I just bash in my back yard and hit a few jumps and would like more traction. Would a center diff be good for me like I said all I do is bash by myself or with my friend who has a tmaxx no racing

keithinspace

Higher durability, longer lasting stock pinion gears, fewer popped driveshafts, less wear on clutch, and better control in turns by rear brake installation.

But no wheelies. With 500k in the center, I can do mean slap wheelies, but can't clean-jerk the front off the ground like without a center diff.

Novarider

I'm not conserned about sharp turning what I want is to be able to controll the dirrection better like to avoid a tree or a swingset or ligh up better for a jump. If you get the center diff is the rear brake a must? Like I said no course racing just back yard fun

quadracer111

My Feedback: (1)

You dont NEED the rear brake, I dont have one installed yet but i might.

keithinspace

Concur. But being able to swing the rear end wide with 50% brake application instead of the truck simply doing a nosedive is pretty nice.

madmaxx1

cd require's rear brake! otherwise you will have REALLY crappy brake's! think about it

quadracer111

My Feedback: (1)

were saying that you don't need it to use it

keithinspace

You can physically install a center diff without rear brakes. You just get to enjoy craptastic handling by all your braking only being to the front wheels.

So you can! It just sucks, is all.

madmaxx1

yeah lol you'd be braking with only the front's but the rear's would still be driving/pushing....

quadracer111

My Feedback: (1)

Thats what i was saying you guys I noticed that tonight, when braking from high speeds my fronts lock up and my rears keep going. Im going to get one next trip to the lhs, along with my badlands and rulux wheels [>:] How should i set it up? 30 front 50 rear?

NitroVenom

You want the opposite if anything. I'm running 50k up front and 30k in the rear right now but I plan on changing it 20k in th rear. With such a heavy weight oil in the rear and a light one up front your gonna end up pushing the front tires through the turns. Even with only 30k in the rear I still got that "push" at the track. With 50k up front and 20k in the rear, you eliminate that "push". With a CD it will work even better. The best set-up with a CD would be 50k/500k/20k.

quadracer111

My Feedback: (1)

Ya, sorry, i posted that backwards. I just bash but i have a center diff so i dont break drivetrain parts with my picco. Im gong to do 50k/500k/20k with 17/36 gearing [>:] I also need a rear brake, what is the best way to set that up? Is there a way do do it so that when i corner my back wheels lock up and i can swing my rear around while steering and driving with my front? Or what is the best way?

keithinspace

17/36...wow. Fast. I just ordered hardened RR 15/38 gears. Dies at the top end, but I don't go there that often. If the opportunity presents itself, I'll just put plastic gears on.

Sure, you can set up your brakes independently to be 'biased' to the rear. It just grabs the back before the front, so half application would be rears sliding, fronts turning and full application locks all of them up. That's how I have mine set up and it works quite well.

The 500k fluid takes some of this trait out since it starts to stick the front and back together again, but you can still get the effect.