Showtime100

Anyone use this over fabric (Koverall) before?
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct....178&sid=245213

The Canary Yellow looks to be a close match to Cub Yellow but will need to test.

Chip_Mull

My Feedback: (1)

If you're using it over Sig Koverall, what are you sealing the fabric with first?

Showtime100

StickIT to adhere and I ordered Sig Nitrate Dope to seal but I am now considering using clear Minwax Polycrylic.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I  just covered a pt60 with the Koverall.  I used the stix-it for adhesive and the Minwax poly to seal.  I am trying to decide on the paint right now also.  I have a compressor and gun so I can use any paint I choose.  I honestly did not want to use a paint out of a spray can.  I am afraid I will not be able to control the volume that comes out and could have too much in one area over another.  
The polycrylic worked very well for sealing and sands OK.  I do not know about weight yet.  That is another reason I do not want to paint out of a spray can.  I am afraid that if I do not thin the paint I will make the model too heavy.  In the Kit Building forum I have a thread titled Covering & Paint.  I was looking for advice.  Someone sent mo the following site.  Check it out.  I may never be as good as the guy in that site.  But he also used the Minwax poly.  Talk you later.

Steve   

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Forgot to add the link 
  <font color="#00265e">http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm</font>

chashint

OK here is my experience with Rustoleum.
There are many types of Rustoleum so your experience may be very different.
The paint was spray can John Deere green and yellow, outdoor equipment paint.
The plane was covered with Koverall, sealed with nitrate, primered with gray automotive spray can primer.
Other than the typical issues associated with using spray cans to paint something fairly large and complex the application went fairly smooth and produced a very nice looking airplane.
The paint was fuel proof to both raw fuel and exhaust residue.
Seems perfect right .... well not so fast.
The paint was not very flexible, it began to crack and chip out of the open span areas, some of these chip outs are bigger than a quarter and the perimeter of the chip out is not adhered well at all.
About three weeks ago the plane did not complete a loop (about 6 inches short) and slammed belly first into the ground. Luck was on my side and the only structrual damage to the plane was aa aileron servo mount was broken and the landing gear broke off.
Cosmetically though the plane looked terrible .... the paint literally jumped off the top of the wing leaving large areas of gray primer behind.
I decided to just ignore the paint issues and fly the plane since to do anything about it would require the paint to be stripped and there is not much telling what that would do to the integrity of the covering.

Like I said there are many types of Rustoleum and your experience may be different, but I think the paint is to brittle to use over open structures.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I've used the spray rustoleum on solartex. This is the caustic stuff that has tolulene in it. It stayed flexible on my plane. Occasionally you have to reshrink coverings here due to pretty extreme summer heat. To reshrink I place a white T-shirt type material over the wrinkle. Then use an iron to shrink the wrinkle but dont move the cloth, just the iron. The paint stays pliable and reshrinks without cracking. This was NOT on koveral and dope. Never tried that.
Edwin

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

I fly with Charlie (see posting above) and I was surprsed when the paint chipped off his plane after a relatively low impact "crash". I've used Rustoleum many times with excellent results. But, I've never used it over nitrate dope. Using it over water based poly has worked well. Both the poly and the paint seem to stay flexible. Charlie's problem may be associated with the nitrate dope sealer. But, it was very strange. I've never seen that happen before.

pmw

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

This is good info. I was gonna try that some time in the future. I'm starting to use koveral more on my planes since solartex is getting so expensive. I've used rustoleum on ultracoat too. Works pretty good but you cant use it any place where there will be any rubbing like cowl to fuse. It reshrinks without cracking like on the solartex too.
Edwin

Chip_Mull

My Feedback: (1)

I've let this thread run a while before I asked the ultimate question. Why not use a tried and tested system? A solvent based paint is lighter and will flex and not crack over fabric. You can use either Butyrate Dope or the Stits Lilte paint system and never wonder if it's going to crack.

I know about the Min-wax, Latex house paint, Krylon and they all have their flaws when used on fabric. The Wright Brothers used grade A linen and varnish. Are we going to re-invent the wheel all over again? Ray Stits says "We have builders and experimenters". The experimenters always have a better way, in their estimation.

Then, the plane crashes and we are left wondering "Why did my paint fall off"?

When considering the costs of paint ask yourself; how much do I have invested in this project and is now the time to skimp? Most kits are up in the $250 to $800 range and now you're thinking, it's just a model I'll just use house paint or rattle cans. Where did your pride in ownership and craftsmanship go?

If you started with Klass Kote, stay with Klass Kote. If you started with Stits Lite, stick with Stits Lite and so on and so on. These systems are tried and tested and developed for modelers.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Just my opinion, but for some it would be availability, cost, and other just want to try something different. I dont think its a matter of reinventing the wheel. I get critisized for using conversion engines also. I like to try different things and processes.
Edwin

Showtime100

I guess I raised the question because I don't know any better and I couldn't tell you what is the tried and true methods and what is experimentation. A search on covering fabric will lead you to a plethera of different methods and materials with each poster claiming his way is best.
Chip_Mull, you do make a good point about sticking with tried and true systems, especially for a new kit builder like me, but I think everyone will agree that originally someone had to experiment in order to develop these tried and true systems.
Anyways, I will likely buy Sig's Butyrate Dope products for the koverall. I can talk to them if something goes wrong and I know they will all be compatible.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

No doubt, on a scale, detailed project that I want to look nice, THAT will get the tried and true, no doubt about it methods. Its only logical to not experiment on something you want to be proud of and all scaled out. I have several test wings and a few trainers I experiment with and occasionally a sport model because I want real world use on it. None of the experiments are any good unless they hold up to everyday usage. Thats the great thing about rcu, there is always somebody trying something different.
Edwin

chashint

The question asked by the original poster was specifically about Rustoleum.

Chip_Mull

My Feedback: (1)

I think it was answered with

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Showtime,

I need to clarify a couple of things for you if you are still interested in using Rustoleum paint. I have never used any of the various formulas except "Professional". I'm not sure about the newer formulas, such as the one you referenced in your link. I have painted literally dozens of models , as have many of our members, with the Professional brand and have never had a problem. I've tried just about every canned spray paint made at one time or another. I always come back to Rustoleum Professional. Charlie used the "Farm Equipment" formula, which may be why his paint chipped. Chip suggests a "tried and proven" method. Rustoleum Professional is a "tried and proven" method. It's been used by modelers I know for over 30 years. There are better application methods if you have professional spray equipment, which I do. I use the spray gun a lot, but for smaller models, the best spray can paint I've used is Rustoleum Profession with DupliColor a close second. Hope this helps.

pmw

Showtime100

pmw, My model is the Sig 1/5 J-3 Cub so I'd need a Yellow close to Cub Yellow. Their website shows a "Safety Yellow" which may be close but I wouldn't know for sure until I saw it in person. Can they mix Rustoleum Professional to match Cub Yellow?
Oh, I will be brushing it on.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Showtime,

I don't think you can get Rustoleum custom mixed. For a custom color you can use latex or use Nelson's paint which has a cub yellow. Nelson's does not come in spray cans, so you can brush it on. I use a lot of Nelson's and it will flow very well. The best way to apply it is with a small foam roller. It takes about 6 coats, but the paint goes a long way and you will use a lot less than you think. It's good paint and I highly recommend it. Butyrate dope is also a good brush on paint. Both are fuel proof without a clear coat. Latex will require a clear coat of fuel proof paint.

pmw

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, you can get it custom mixed. They sell it in a can also. But their base colors are limited so you may not get an exact match. At least thats what they told me at Home Depot.
Edwin

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Edwin,

I did not know that. That might open a whole new world for me because I was never able to get a nice color in the brush can colors. If they can create a color, I would be able to use my spray equipment and get a much better spray pattern than the spray can. Thanks for the info.

pmw

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I bought paint from my local auto parts store today.  It was their own brand.  I mixed it with their thinner and sprayed my first coat on my fuse and wing.  I estimate I only used about 2 ounces.  This looks great already.  4-5 more coats and it will be awesome.   1 pint of blue and 1/2 pint yellow and the thinner totaled $31.00.  I still have to check it to make sure it is fuel proof.  If not I will get a pint of clearcoat. 
I was loking for the Rustoleum Professional when I ran across these guys.  There happened to be a guy in the parts store around 80 years old who built and flew RC.  Since he recommended their paint, and I was tired of looking, I bought it.  I am glad I did now.  Oh ya...I used the Rustoleum gloss white on the belly of my plane.  Bought it at Lowes.  Now I am glad they did not have any other colors available so I had to keep looking.  The Rustoleum went on heavy.  I may sand it off and use the auto parts paint.  If you can afford a compressor, go for it.  It goes on so much better than spray cans.