IFR

My Feedback: (1)

Has anyone installed a Spring Air steerable nose wheel? There are no directions for the steering linkage supplied with the retracts. I have tried solid wire as well as flexible linkage and no matter what I try the wheel turns as it retracts hanging up on the bottom of the plane. I have tried putting the linkage at different levels, at different angles, etc. but the wheel turns no matter what I do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I hope this isn't a design flaw.

r degen

Dan is your retract the one that has just one push rod going to it . If so you have to keep the linkage in line with the pivot point were the gear retracts. Randy

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

This is going to sound stupid but for push rod steering on the Springaire nosegear, put a ball point pen spring on the slider rod between the arm and the linkage. This will hold the linkage up at the top of the slider rod and keep the gear straight coming up. May have to trim the spring a little to keep tension off the servo when up.

IFR

My Feedback: (1)

rcman58 and Thud_Driver
Yes this unit only has one push rod. I have kept the linkage on a line parallel with the pivot point but the plastic slide linkage twists as the retracts are going down and this creates the problem. I have a nylon clevis on the linkage should I remove this and just use a "z" bend? Since the plastic linkage is already mounted how do you get a spring mounted between the arm and the plastic linkage?

r degen

Dan I made a stand off and bolted it to the side of the retract to keep the push rod on the pivot point , I also used a plastic clevis this set up has worked great for me . Randy

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

The slide rod unscrews, if I remember right, and then you can put a spring on. If it turns out to be a press fit, then push it out and replace it with a 4/40 (or 2/56) rod end so that no threads show and use nuts to hold it if necessary. Use a small wheel collar on the top. I've made a few of these and they work ok.

Yes, the slide linkage twists, the spring will give it more friction against twisting. It is a problem but if you keep the linkage high on the slider and the pushrod arm straight on it will minimize the problem. You might not want to use a nylon clevis as the strut gets some good shock loads which can shear the nylon pin. I use a steel kwik link. A Z bend can hang up if the top of the Z is too long.

I've seen standoffs that attach to the springair unit that keep everything aligned but they were all homemade. Pushrod alignment is important and needs to be straight on to the linkage.

Dubro is now selling a long flange nylon link that might work better as a slider with a kwik link if the hole is drilled in the right place.

IFR

My Feedback: (1)

I hate to profess my ignorance, but what is a standoff? The retract is on a Wing Mfg P-38 which has a narrow center fuselage so I will have to get the twisting down to a minimum. I also noticed that the rod on the arm is shorter than the distance the linkage travels during retraction, this is adding to the bind so if it can be unscrewed I will look at installing a longer rod.

Thud_Driver

My Feedback: (1)

It's just a guide, a "L" shaped, or right angle, bracket that's attached to the retract unit at the air input end using the screw that's there holding the unit together. The pushrod goes thru a hole in the end sticking out that's hopefully aligned up/down with the center of the pivot point and left/right with the slider arm. Alternatively, a fuselage mounted bracket with correct alignment can be used.

The slider arm should be long enough as is, assuming you have the steering arm snug against the bottom of the strut mounting block. It only has to get the slider up to the pivot point. Is this a belly mount unit or a firewall mount unit?

PS: If you clip both ends of the ball point pen spring, you can wrap it onto the slider arm without taking anything apart.